VATS problems??
VATS problems?? i am having problmes starting the car every once in a while, i will turn the key and nothing happens, i do it multple times and nothing, then a few minutes later it starts... sometimes pulling it out of park into nuetral lets it start... it is intermittint and happens once or twice a day one day a week...
battey is new and terminals are good, umm both keys do the same thing. my friend wnet thorouhg this last year and we ended up changing the ignition and getting new keys.... if i delete !VATS wont the alarm functions be disabled...
Originally Posted by DYING BREED
battey is new and terminals are good, umm both keys do the same thing. my friend wnet thorouhg this last year and we ended up changing the ignition and getting new keys.... if i delete !VATS wont the alarm functions be disabled...
There are some shops that have invested in the proper equipment to diagnose VATS systems. We are one. Unfortunately, we are out of your range. I'm sure you could find a shop in your area that has the same capability. Worse comes to worse, you can have a tuner delete it from your tune.
BTW, Used to live in Clearwater, FLA. I sure do miss palm trees!!! You are a lucky man!!!
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee
Every time you turn your igniton switch,the two wires running down the column from your ignition to your VAS module rub up against the internals of your column. Sounds like you definitely have one wire (or both)pretty much disconnected-or barely disconnected. Fix this, and you get your car back the way it was.
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I had this problem a few years back.Took it to the dealer ship and they said it was a bad lock cylinder and had to get new keys.Well it turned out the problem was st ill there.Well to make a long storry short it turned out being a fault ignition relay.Replace the relay and never had a problem since
Could be your ignition cylinder, check this thread reply#3.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=vats
I was able to short a couple wires under the kick panel and make it start right up. Took 5 mins. Before that, turning on the ignition, the accessories would come on just fine, but when you'd turn the key, NOTHING would happen and the SECURITY LIGHT would flash.
VATS BYPASS:
There is ONE bright orange sleeve with 2 small white wires coming out of it right under the steering column, you cant miss it! If you measure the resistance of the chip on your key, you can find a resistor that is CLOSE to that resistance needed to bypass the VATS and start the car. All you do is unplug that connector with the two white wires and on the male side of the connector you put each side of the resistor. Our resistor turned out to be 680ohm.
If you dont want to replace your ignition cylinder because you dont care about losing your VATS, this is the cheap way out and is very simple. My friend didnt want to pay the $600 the dealership quoted him to replace the cylinder so I soldered the resistor in for him and voila.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=vats
I was able to short a couple wires under the kick panel and make it start right up. Took 5 mins. Before that, turning on the ignition, the accessories would come on just fine, but when you'd turn the key, NOTHING would happen and the SECURITY LIGHT would flash.
VATS BYPASS:
There is ONE bright orange sleeve with 2 small white wires coming out of it right under the steering column, you cant miss it! If you measure the resistance of the chip on your key, you can find a resistor that is CLOSE to that resistance needed to bypass the VATS and start the car. All you do is unplug that connector with the two white wires and on the male side of the connector you put each side of the resistor. Our resistor turned out to be 680ohm.
If you dont want to replace your ignition cylinder because you dont care about losing your VATS, this is the cheap way out and is very simple. My friend didnt want to pay the $600 the dealership quoted him to replace the cylinder so I soldered the resistor in for him and voila.
