several issues with the car
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From: In a van down by the river, Missouri
several issues with the car Having a number of issues with the car right now.
Dynoed it a few weeks ago and right after it came off the dyno i noticed the "abs inop" light was on and it never went away.
Installed elec fuel pressure gauge. It just pegs the needle and all the wiring is done right. From what i've read its from the 3wire plug isnt completely plugged into the sending unit. Mine is plugged in right so im thinking the sending unit is bad.
In the middle of the gauge install the SES light came on. The car would start when its cold but when it warmed up it wouldnt start on its own after that without giving it some throttle. I dressed the gauge wires in loom and noticed that the factory coolant sensor plug was loose. The plastic piece was broke off. I held the plug onto the sensor prongs and the car would be a little better to start after warm up but was a lil sluggish. I put in a new coolant sensor today and the SES light started flashing 12 times, then stop a lil bit, then go flashing again. Now it wont start after warm up without giving it throttle and tt kinda acts like its flooding, can smell that its a lil rich on start up and it clears out after 30 seconds to 1 minute & runs fine at idle.
I've read about guys with broken springs & other things causing the ses light to flash so im leary to drive the car 20 minutes to have autozone tell me the codes its throwing.
Dynoed it a few weeks ago and right after it came off the dyno i noticed the "abs inop" light was on and it never went away.
Installed elec fuel pressure gauge. It just pegs the needle and all the wiring is done right. From what i've read its from the 3wire plug isnt completely plugged into the sending unit. Mine is plugged in right so im thinking the sending unit is bad.
In the middle of the gauge install the SES light came on. The car would start when its cold but when it warmed up it wouldnt start on its own after that without giving it some throttle. I dressed the gauge wires in loom and noticed that the factory coolant sensor plug was loose. The plastic piece was broke off. I held the plug onto the sensor prongs and the car would be a little better to start after warm up but was a lil sluggish. I put in a new coolant sensor today and the SES light started flashing 12 times, then stop a lil bit, then go flashing again. Now it wont start after warm up without giving it throttle and tt kinda acts like its flooding, can smell that its a lil rich on start up and it clears out after 30 seconds to 1 minute & runs fine at idle.
I've read about guys with broken springs & other things causing the ses light to flash so im leary to drive the car 20 minutes to have autozone tell me the codes its throwing.
sounds like a major misfire for some reason.
As for the abs inop light, I would say maybe they pulled a fuse and just forgot to put it back in? Or check for a blown fuse? Or, you may have to find someone local with Tech 2 or EFILive software so you can check the BODY Abs codes. That would show you the exact cause of the abs light.
As for the abs inop light, I would say maybe they pulled a fuse and just forgot to put it back in? Or check for a blown fuse? Or, you may have to find someone local with Tech 2 or EFILive software so you can check the BODY Abs codes. That would show you the exact cause of the abs light.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: In a van down by the river, Missouri
This morning i checked all the connections and everything was fine. Fired it up and no more SES light. Car started up a little sluggish the first time (its 25 degrees in the garage). After warm up the car starts perfect everytime. No more "flooding symptoms" and cant smell it running rich. I'll take it for a drive when it stops snowing.
Checked all the fuses for ABS and all looked good. Waiting for the heater to warm the garage up then going to check connections under the car.
Checked all the fuses for ABS and all looked good. Waiting for the heater to warm the garage up then going to check connections under the car.
it does not sound like a big deal. the abs had a problem with the dyno. rear wheels were spinning and the fronts were not, probably codes for frt wheel sensors. those codes are erased by a scan tool or 100 key cycles with out a problem.
an open connection at the coolant sensor is telling the pcm it's -40F thus the rich running, and it getting worse as it warms up.
an open connection at the coolant sensor is telling the pcm it's -40F thus the rich running, and it getting worse as it warms up.
If the sensor got broke off then the wiring pigtail that attaches to it may very well be overstressed as well and would need to be replaced.
Ps. "In a van, down by the river..." funny bit, haven't heard that one in a long time.
Ps. "In a van, down by the river..." funny bit, haven't heard that one in a long time.
