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wideband with HPTuners

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Old 03-24-2007, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000c-5
All this is great advice. I use a PLX SM-AFR, $195 for just the wideband, or $259 with a gauge. You could wire the power wire supply wires to a cigarette lighter adapter, put an alligator clip on the ground wire to be placed at or near the PCM, and just replace the stock narrowband sensor with the wideband sensor since you will be tuning in open loop anyway and not using the narrowbands. The wideband will be wired already into the HP Tuner Pro hardware, so nothing to do there. Like everone said, it would take just minutes to do.

When you get set up, follow these steps:

For VE Tuning with a wideband,

You need to:

- set the Engine/Fuel Control/OL & CL/Closed Loop Closed Loop Enable/ECT vs IAT to 284* across the board. This will put you in open loop along with setting the MAF fail freq to 0.

- on the same page as above, you want to disable LTFT

- also on this same page, in Open Loop/EQ Ratio, set all to 1.00 or I just change the ones from 140* and up to 1.00 (this will command 14.63 or stoich)
This step can be done several ways too. You can leave it as is if you want or change it to 1.13 which will command 13.0 AFR, it doesn't really matter what you are commanding, because the % error will still be the same. After going back to Closed Loop you won’t use this table anymore.

- in Engine/Fuel Control/Fuel Cutoff set DFCO enable temp to 284*

- in Engine/Fuel Control/COT, Lean Cruise set COT to disable

- in Eng. Diag/Airflow set MAF fail freq to 0 (you should also unplug the MAF if you can. If you are driving a 2001 and newer C-5 , the IAT is wired in the same plug, so you can’t unplug the MAF without doing some rewiring. They are seperate in the earlier C-5s)

- Now go log. Make sure you log VE for AFR, commanded AFR, and AFR percent error. I log first and then change the cell hits required to 25 for the percent error.

- Right click/Copy the percent error histogram

- Open Editor and use the paste special/multiply by % to the Engine/Airflow/General Airflow/Main VE/Primary table.

- Then, if you have a 1997-2000 C-5, copy the even numbered MAP lines to the secondary VE table by using the copy/paste method. Save and "write calibration only" to the PCM. Drive and see where you are.

Wash, Rinse, Repeat until your VE tables are in line. It should only take 3-4 runs.

After this, reset the MAF fail back to 14000 (leave everything else as is for now) and do the same thing for the MAF tables using MAF vs Output Freq (Hz) histograms instead of the VE histograms.



I don't know what you are driving, but this is for a corvette. It is all pretty much the same, some of your tables may be slightly different. Have fun.
WOW! That makes my head spin!!
I understand the adjustments you're making, but without the tuning graphs/tables in front of me, it is a little harder to grasp the procedure I guess.

put an alligator clip on the ground wire to be placed at or near the PCM

This is a little confusing as well, The PCM on a C5 is in the fender well (which really requires the tire to be pulled off to get to easily). If you are "wiring up" all of these conections, how are you able to drive the car around for testiing?
Old 03-24-2007, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE ROCKET
WOW! That makes my head spin!!
I understand the adjustments you're making, but without the tuning graphs/tables in front of me, it is a little harder to grasp the procedure I guess.

put an alligator clip on the ground wire to be placed at or near the PCM

This is a little confusing as well, The PCM on a C5 is in the fender well (which really requires the tire to be pulled off to get to easily). If you are "wiring up" all of these conections, how are you able to drive the car around for testiing?
Trust me, it's a whole lot easier with the write up than it is without it.

The only connection you have to make to the car is the ground at or near the PCM ground. The PCM is grounded on the passenger side of the motor. There is also a ground near it on the inner frame rail, just outside of the battery box, that is a little easier to get to. Just attach your alligator clip to it. Grounding at or near the PCM ground just makes the wideband output more accurate. You could ground it anywhere if you chose to. The other wires will come off of the wideband O2 sensor, and then there is the hot and ground coming from the cigarette lighter to power the unit. The single ground wire and the O2 plug coming from the hood area would have to come in to the car through an open window, etc., unless you wanted to run them through the dash somewhere (pain in the ***).

Here is a link to the unit I bought. http://www.plxdevices.com/products_SMAFR.htm If you look at the connection diagram picture:

1= power to unit (cigarette lighter adapter)
2= analog outputs, 4 wires
-wideband output goes to HP Tuner Pro unit
-ground wire that goes at or near the PCM ground
-narrowband output not used
-ground wire that is not used unless you want the gauge to read in Lambda instead of AFR
3= jumper for using multiple units daisy chained together (don't have to touch this)
4 & 5= transmit and recieve-this is where gauge plugs in or other units if using multiple units
6= plug from wideband O2 sensor (it's 10 ft long, so it should reach inside the car, no problem)

Last edited by 2000c-5; 03-24-2007 at 05:24 PM.
Old 03-25-2007, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Killer_Bluebird
If you are looking for ease of use. I would say get a new bung welded in. It will cost you $50 if that. Then get the LM-1 and HPTuners EIO combo.

If cash is a problem and your not afraid of doing a little wiring. Do a set up like what I did. Here. It takes me 2 mins. to take on/off the car (including jacking the car up). It saved me $250+ and I don't have to run wires from the WB to my Tuning hardware. Just connect my laptop to the the OBDII with the standard cable and off I go. Since I race my car in a very limited budget I have to pinch pennies.
i was reading this thread and i was wondering if u still have the diagram, it doesnt show up in ur link, i been trying to solve my WB issues for a while and this sonds perfect, no more messing with wires and i can just leave the sensor attached, a pix or two wouldnt hurt, thanx
Old 03-25-2007, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mcamarols1
i was reading this thread and i was wondering if u still have the diagram, it doesnt show up in ur link, i been trying to solve my WB issues for a while and this sonds perfect, no more messing with wires and i can just leave the sensor attached, a pix or two wouldnt hurt, thanx
The only problem with the diagram you are looking for is you will loose a lot of resolution using the narrowband input to the PCM. The narrowband input at the PCM will only read 0-1 v, whereas your wideband uses a 0-5 v output. A lot less accuracy.
Old 03-27-2007, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000c-5
The only problem with the diagram you are looking for is you will loose a lot of resolution using the narrowband input to the PCM. The narrowband input at the PCM will only read 0-1 v, whereas your wideband uses a 0-5 v output. A lot less accuracy.
Yeah that is true but you do but not as much as you think. The sensor is able to send a linear signal between 0-1v. The car reads that signal in mv (3 digits). Once converted to volts you are your input is accurate withing 2 decimals if you round the numbers. For instance the Car is reading 450mv though the computer your AFR using the formulas mentioned before will be 13.600. If the sensor read 451mv the afr will be 13.608 and 452mv=13.616 and so on. Is it as accurate as logging 5v nope but is it accurate enough I would say yes. Also in the harness that I built I have a drum connection for the second output. So with a couple extra minutes I can take an extra wire with an alligator clip and and run it to the AC pressure sensor if I want the extra resolution. I though of that as well, when I built my harness box. Just in case.



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