PLX install pix
#2
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Richmond, VA Where fast cars, well......are hard to come by.
Posts: 979
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thats a small radio head unit.
j/k Looks like you need another gauge or 2 so it's not lonely there. Still trying to figure out where I'm gonna put my plx gauge. How do you like the wideband?
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#4
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by LuvmyC5
How hard was it to hook up? I got one off of the GP too and the instructions aren't that great especially for someone "electrically illiterate" like I am!
#5
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by AzzHauler
Thats a small radio head unit.
j/k Looks like you need another gauge or 2 so it's not lonely there. Still trying to figure out where I'm gonna put my plx gauge. How do you like the wideband?
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#6
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by fastlt1
It is easier than it looks. I would have felt better if the power supply plug would had been assembled. Just don't flip out out when it takes a minute to warm and start working. I was like what do I have wrong. Then it started working. If you need any help yell.
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
#7
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by fastlt1
It is easier than it looks. I would have felt better if the power supply plug would had been assembled. Just don't flip out out when it takes a minute to warm and start working. I was like what do I have wrong. Then it started working. If you need any help yell.
I bought the same WB02 as you did and you said that if I needed help to yell! Could I Please pick your brain for a minute or two?
Did you get the gauge too? Does the gauge come on as soon as the power is supplied to it or does the engine have to be running? I ran the WB02 in the ORP and got everything situated there, and then I ran a product called an add a circuit in the fuse block inside my car and grounded it to a bolt next to the radio. It's not doing anything yet as far as I know.
Do you have any suggestions or am I just being impatient and give it about a minute to warm up?
Thanks in advance for the help!
Rob
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am at the point in the assembly where I am wishing that I hadn't bought it.
You need electrical knowledge (what is a termination jumper and is it needed or not, what are these capacitors for and where do you use them, how do you solder a power plug; how do you hook up the analog output?).
I already have a DIY wide band and it works beautifully however its "guts" box is too big for a permanent install. At least the PLX is smaller and go behind the radio.
Questions please.
For analog out: I would normally use a Vout which should be what PLX calls the WB plug and the ground. That should normally give me my signal around the 2.3-2.4V midpoint. I think I see what the NB analog out is but what is 3.3v? Is that a continous reference voltage that is necessary or is that simply to calibrate the device by hooking up a 3.3 V input. Or is that a constant 3.3 V output and if so where do you hook that up?
Using the WB and the Grnd outs would simply allow me to hook that up to the EFILive analog input for my V2 analog in A1...4.
Now I am off to test my rusty soldering skills. I see 4 wires that need soldering for me. Power, ground, WB out(what I would call Vout), and ground out.
Simply understand that "some assembly required" is necessary here.
Perry
You need electrical knowledge (what is a termination jumper and is it needed or not, what are these capacitors for and where do you use them, how do you solder a power plug; how do you hook up the analog output?).
I already have a DIY wide band and it works beautifully however its "guts" box is too big for a permanent install. At least the PLX is smaller and go behind the radio.
Questions please.
For analog out: I would normally use a Vout which should be what PLX calls the WB plug and the ground. That should normally give me my signal around the 2.3-2.4V midpoint. I think I see what the NB analog out is but what is 3.3v? Is that a continous reference voltage that is necessary or is that simply to calibrate the device by hooking up a 3.3 V input. Or is that a constant 3.3 V output and if so where do you hook that up?
Using the WB and the Grnd outs would simply allow me to hook that up to the EFILive analog input for my V2 analog in A1...4.
Now I am off to test my rusty soldering skills. I see 4 wires that need soldering for me. Power, ground, WB out(what I would call Vout), and ground out.
Simply understand that "some assembly required" is necessary here.
Perry
#9
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It is now hooked up and working well. My tune was spot on according to my old WB and now I can log the permanent WB with EFILive and I am 12.9 at wot, 15.0 at idle and 14.7 at cruise.
Perry
Perry
Last edited by pkincy; 07-07-2007 at 11:04 PM.