Strange lazy idle gremlin
Strange lazy idle gremlin As many of you all know i used to have a MS4 then swapped for a 226, anyways i've had the car running around (crappy tune at that) and just recently like this last week the car would turn on idle fine in park then when i would go to drive the idle would go down, WAY DOWN, like around 300-400 RPM's. but the car would not die out, just idle VERY crappy. so i would give it alittle throttle and drive off and then the idle would fix it self out after a couple of shifts. then when i would come down to a light or somthing where i was idling again in gear, the idle would start sucking again. then later as i drove around more and come to a stop the idle would be normal again.
Anyways i dont know if this is in the right location or not, but i'm attaching a log of a drive that i did, you'll notice that the MAP and timing go REALLY wakey. also not that the car didnt die out at all on that log, you'll see parts where it just flatlines itself, but the car is still running! anyways i was hoping to see if yall had an idea or somthing.
again i know the tune sucks!!
http://reject.sleepingz.com/HPT/may%...6%20retune.hpl
thanks again for all of yall's help.
hopefully i can figure this out, it has me head scratching
Anyways i dont know if this is in the right location or not, but i'm attaching a log of a drive that i did, you'll notice that the MAP and timing go REALLY wakey. also not that the car didnt die out at all on that log, you'll see parts where it just flatlines itself, but the car is still running! anyways i was hoping to see if yall had an idea or somthing.
again i know the tune sucks!!
http://reject.sleepingz.com/HPT/may%...6%20retune.hpl
thanks again for all of yall's help.
hopefully i can figure this out, it has me head scratching
timing is around 25-26ish
and the MAP is around 60ish at idle
was talking to a friend and he was thinknig maybe it may have something to do with the fuel regulator dumping extra fuel into the mix at idle?
is there a way to check taht threw HPT?
and the MAP is around 60ish at idle
was talking to a friend and he was thinknig maybe it may have something to do with the fuel regulator dumping extra fuel into the mix at idle?
is there a way to check taht threw HPT?
here is my latest log of what is happening so you all can see what i'm talking about.
the action starts at around 4000 frames, so you may want to skip past the warming up if you want to.
http://reject.sleepingz.com/HPT/morn...20may%2023.hpl
the action starts at around 4000 frames, so you may want to skip past the warming up if you want to.
http://reject.sleepingz.com/HPT/morn...20may%2023.hpl
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Was under the car today, and noticed that on my driver side o2 sensor 3 out of the 4 wires were stripped off of their plastic coatings. could that be the answer to the problem? but on the scanner it seems to be still reading right?
First you need to figure out why your timing is going to 0 when you shift to drive. Can you post your tune? Then you will need some serious work on your idle airflow tables in both park and drive. You may or may not need to drill/open your throttlebody more because the IAC position was pretty high the whole time. Also, are you running speed density or did you just forget to plug your maf in?
I got the tune off of HPTuner's website with the 224 cam and 3600 stall and 36 pound injectors for a 2000 A4. I copy'd everything minus the tranny settings and that's what i used, i dont have 36 pound injectors though, but the stock ones, it was working great for a while then this problem started happening. I have the MAF still plugged in at this time.
here is the file that i have been using so far, with out any luck http://reject.sleepingz.com/HPT/MODI...lt%204l60e.hpt
and this is the stock file of the car just in case you want to look at it
http://reject.sleepingz.com/HPT/Carrie%20stock.hpt
and this is the stock file of the car just in case you want to look at it
http://reject.sleepingz.com/HPT/Carrie%20stock.hpt
You have the maf plugged in at this time, but in the log file it was unplugged. Do you have a log with the maf plugged in?
At Frame 719 your spark advance goes into a death spiral and can't get back out until you start moving and it selects the main tables. The death spiral has do with low timing causing low rpm causing high MAP, which causes low timing. In drive the minimum spark advance you should get is 11* at high MAP, but somehow it's going down to 0. IAT spark correction adds its -5* of spark but even that won't get you down to 0. I would say try logging all your spark PIDs and g/cyl and make sure your maf is plugged in this time and figure out where your spark advance is going.
At Frame 719 your spark advance goes into a death spiral and can't get back out until you start moving and it selects the main tables. The death spiral has do with low timing causing low rpm causing high MAP, which causes low timing. In drive the minimum spark advance you should get is 11* at high MAP, but somehow it's going down to 0. IAT spark correction adds its -5* of spark but even that won't get you down to 0. I would say try logging all your spark PIDs and g/cyl and make sure your maf is plugged in this time and figure out where your spark advance is going.
If your vcm was using the low octane spark tables instead of Idle in drive spark tables, that would explain everything. If you want something to try right now, try copying your high octane spark table to your low octane spark table and see if it will idle right.
will do, i'm trying to figure out my credit card statments at this moment, (unknown charges) so i'll get back to this after i get it settled out. thanks again for your help.
Ok i FINALLY got the TC installed and up and running! I took it out for a drive today and i noticed it STILL had that lazy idle surge problem, it wasnt as frequent as it was before, but it did pop up a couple of times in the 80 miles i drove the car today. I also noticed that the car did a few hickups (like the o2 sensors would zero out and the car would stumble real quick a few times when giving it gas from a red light)
oh i found my driver side o2 sensor had 3 of the 4 wires burnt and crisped to one another, i thought that was the problem and replaced that and nothing, still the same
i also found a leak from where i put the EGR tube plug (when you do the !EGR/AIR mod you have to plug the hole on the ls1 intake, right behind the TB) and fixed that and replaced it, but that didnt take care of the problem.
just giving you all an update of my progress, i'll upload new log files for you all to see when i get a charged battery on the laptop
thanks!
oh i found my driver side o2 sensor had 3 of the 4 wires burnt and crisped to one another, i thought that was the problem and replaced that and nothing, still the same
i also found a leak from where i put the EGR tube plug (when you do the !EGR/AIR mod you have to plug the hole on the ls1 intake, right behind the TB) and fixed that and replaced it, but that didnt take care of the problem.
just giving you all an update of my progress, i'll upload new log files for you all to see when i get a charged battery on the laptop
thanks!
P Mack, i tried what you told me to do putting the Main to the secondary and everything is still the same, on the MAF i basically got rid of it. i zero'd out the Frequency and unplugged the harness connected to it.
i even went a step forward to see if it was the tune and flashed the car back to stock to see if it would have that problem or not, and i noticed taht my MAF was at the same exact reading through out the whole log (i pluged it back in for that test)
i'm wondering if maybe the MAF is bad? i checked the wires going to the MAF for continuety to see if they were cut or somthing and they all checked out ok, i then checked the terminals on the MAF by probbing the positive to the negative and it read good, then fron the signal to the positive/negative and i didnt get a reading, maybe the sensor is bad?
but that still wouldnt explan why it still has that idling surge problem, even when i had it completely eleminated.
i even went a step forward to see if it was the tune and flashed the car back to stock to see if it would have that problem or not, and i noticed taht my MAF was at the same exact reading through out the whole log (i pluged it back in for that test)
i'm wondering if maybe the MAF is bad? i checked the wires going to the MAF for continuety to see if they were cut or somthing and they all checked out ok, i then checked the terminals on the MAF by probbing the positive to the negative and it read good, then fron the signal to the positive/negative and i didnt get a reading, maybe the sensor is bad?
but that still wouldnt explan why it still has that idling surge problem, even when i had it completely eleminated.