Problem with Lc1/Hptuners, HELP!
Problem with Lc1/Hptuners, HELP! i connected the yellow wire on the LC1 to the brown wire of the EGR and added the custom PID. here is my current config and quick scan. i dont think its reading correctly.. but i dont know. it goes between reading 10.55 and 10.59 for my AFR and EGR voltage only .27 and .29 consistenly? doesnt make much sense..
i programmed the lambda to read AFR, but didnt change any of the voltage offsets or anything.
.. what next?
here are the links:
www.savedalone.com/misc/lc1
i programmed the lambda to read AFR, but didnt change any of the voltage offsets or anything.
.. what next?
here are the links:
www.savedalone.com/misc/lc1
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,036
Likes: 1
From: Lake Zurich, IL
sounds like a dead ADC (Analog to digital converter) in the LC-1
Verify the voltages are setup correctly and that you're using the correct output wire... if that's correct, and the LC1 reads AFR via the logworks software, then your ADC is likely toast
Verify the voltages are setup correctly and that you're using the correct output wire... if that's correct, and the LC1 reads AFR via the logworks software, then your ADC is likely toast
UPDATE:
i realized i was using along 2, not analog 1. i setup analog 2, and im now getting a steady 3.73 volts from the EGR and a 14.76 ambient air reading using the PIDF of [PID.2811]/.625)+8.8.. however, i let the car idle for about 30 seconds, and the car shut off comepltely. now everytime i start the car it turns over and immediately cuts out.
log of car not starting is in the link in my first post.
i realized i was using along 2, not analog 1. i setup analog 2, and im now getting a steady 3.73 volts from the EGR and a 14.76 ambient air reading using the PIDF of [PID.2811]/.625)+8.8.. however, i let the car idle for about 30 seconds, and the car shut off comepltely. now everytime i start the car it turns over and immediately cuts out.
log of car not starting is in the link in my first post.
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Originally Posted by 98turbls1
There's your problem. It expressly says to ground the blue wire completely away from the other two... reground it and see how it works...
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Originally Posted by dmw319
no it doesnt. it explicity says in my manual to have the blue and white wires together on the same ground point.
There are several long threads both here and on the HPTuners site and elsewhere, with "numerous" frustrated LC-1 users with the grounding being the cause of their problem.
Some of the early LC-1's had problems with blowing circuits due to having very specific grounding requirements when cranking.
This has since been addressed by Innovative and should no longer occur.
Regardless, to get the right readings with the least amount of error a proper grounding scheme needs to be obtained, what that is seems to change with every setup.
From my reading, the heads were a popular choice which is why I chose the setup I did.
Each side has a bolt hole in the rear(hard to get to) but conveniently empty for setting up a ground.
Launching!
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Canadian West Coast
Recently doing mine, I got two grounds simply from the support brace under the steering column. There are two bolts on either side. Heater blue on one side, and the other grounds on the other. Just make sure you scrape away the paint to get a good ground and use a proper sized terminal connector.
I don't know if this ground point works for everyone, but it is an easy to reach location, with seperate grounding points YET from the same grounding source (the latter being very important - the grounds should be equal, as different grounds can cause just as much of a problem).
this might be enough to solve your problem.
I don't know if this ground point works for everyone, but it is an easy to reach location, with seperate grounding points YET from the same grounding source (the latter being very important - the grounds should be equal, as different grounds can cause just as much of a problem).
this might be enough to solve your problem.
well if i disconnected the analog 1 (yellow) wire, the car starts fine. so instead of using analog1, i tried analog 2 (brown) wire, and the car starts fine as well. so now ive got a 14.7 AFR on ambient air, and EGR voltage at 2.02 volts.. but starting the car and idling and reving, the numbers dont change. whats wrong? ive confirmed that the LC1 is getting power and all 3 grounds and grounded tightly.
Once all is grounded properly and the LC-1 red LED is displaying no errors (blinking slowly warming up, then steady), then you need to make sure everything is configured right.
Easiest way to test if the LC-1 itself is working is to go through logworks, then get HPT straightened out.
Read your voltages at the Wideband wire with a Voltmeter if you have one, with the system powered on in free air, it should read at your max AFR setting, hovering @ 5V
Once both work, you'll typically want to compare your readings in HPT with what logworks is seeing.
Your HPT settings, that formula you posted, will be different depending on your offsets, how you have your LC-1 config'd in the software and what range your looking to read off of it,..10~18, 10~20 AFR etc...
Basically, once its confirmed reading properly, all systems have to be in harmony numbers wise, and that's just dong the math.
I'd try and get some screen shots for you of my logworks config (which helps in the explanation) but my laptop is crapped our right now.
Easiest way to test if the LC-1 itself is working is to go through logworks, then get HPT straightened out.
Read your voltages at the Wideband wire with a Voltmeter if you have one, with the system powered on in free air, it should read at your max AFR setting, hovering @ 5V
Once both work, you'll typically want to compare your readings in HPT with what logworks is seeing.
Your HPT settings, that formula you posted, will be different depending on your offsets, how you have your LC-1 config'd in the software and what range your looking to read off of it,..10~18, 10~20 AFR etc...
Basically, once its confirmed reading properly, all systems have to be in harmony numbers wise, and that's just dong the math.
I'd try and get some screen shots for you of my logworks config (which helps in the explanation) but my laptop is crapped our right now.
well i dont have my black wire connected at all, so im not readying any of the lights or antyhing... but log works keeps telling me "no real time data detected". and to check my connections... however, everyrthing is connected and everything, i dont know whats up.
I would separate your system and analog grounds from your heater ground.
If memory serves Chassis grounds have typically been poor performers where PCM and direct head grounds worked the best. But I may be wrong.
I also don't see your analog ground on your diagram, I'm guessing you just forgot to draw it.
Also, if your feeling crazy, you can search HPTuners web forum for LC-1 and you'll find tons of people with these issues.
If memory serves Chassis grounds have typically been poor performers where PCM and direct head grounds worked the best. But I may be wrong.
I also don't see your analog ground on your diagram, I'm guessing you just forgot to draw it.
Also, if your feeling crazy, you can search HPTuners web forum for LC-1 and you'll find tons of people with these issues.
I've got a question... How new is your LC1?? The reason I ask is because I think there are two versions... There was a revision a little bit ago and one of them have fewer wires...