MAP sensor.. How do you know when it's bad?
MAP sensor.. How do you know when it's bad? I've been having some issues with the car hesitating. Low on power through certain RPM's. I've checked the obvious stuff, fuel filter, plugs, wires, o2's, dry gas, injector cleaning.
The one thing I have changed is the MAP, because it fit so loose in the FAST intake, I was worried about a leak. So I switched it to one I had that had a better o-ring. The car ran great for a few weeks before I started having the above mentioned problems. I'm just wondering if switching the MAP sensor could have lead to this, and how do I check to see if I have a bad one.
The one thing I have changed is the MAP, because it fit so loose in the FAST intake, I was worried about a leak. So I switched it to one I had that had a better o-ring. The car ran great for a few weeks before I started having the above mentioned problems. I'm just wondering if switching the MAP sensor could have lead to this, and how do I check to see if I have a bad one.
Connect a vacuum gauge to the inlet (I use the PCV port, but anything will work)
Have your buddy work the gas for you.
Watch the gauge and the laptop scan at the same time. Make sure they are comparable. They won't be exactly correct, but they should be withint 10 kPa of each other.
You will have to hold the car at steady state.
You will most likely have to convert from kPa to " Hg.
Have your buddy work the gas for you.
Watch the gauge and the laptop scan at the same time. Make sure they are comparable. They won't be exactly correct, but they should be withint 10 kPa of each other.
You will have to hold the car at steady state.
You will most likely have to convert from kPa to " Hg.
Lingenfelter made a Really cool fix for that issue. I put them on both my cars with no problems at all. It is an assembly that goes into the port on the front of the egr hole. No more popping out the map for me....
Whether or not there is a leak, pressure is pressure. It
is the flow (error air percentage really) that varies with
a leak.
If you see it at 100kPa-ish at key-on and WOT, and it
is 35-50kPa at idle (varying w/ cam) it's on the job.
is the flow (error air percentage really) that varies with
a leak.
If you see it at 100kPa-ish at key-on and WOT, and it
is 35-50kPa at idle (varying w/ cam) it's on the job.
