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Tach not working after engine install.

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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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Default Tach not working after engine install.

I just finsihed installing a 413 ci LS2 in my 2000 Camaro. I went to fire up the car for the first time and and the RPM's at idle were really high. I had to shut off the engine because the rpm's were so high. I am pretty sure the idle was so high because I still have the stock tune in the car. One other thing that I noticed was off was that my tach was not working. What could be causing this. What places should I check that could cause the tach to not work. Thanks
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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 09:02 PM
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Did you check to see if the crank has the same number of teeth.

Last edited by shotty128; Aug 4, 2007 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by shotty128
Did you check to see if the crank has the same number of teeth.

Looks like you may be in luck. Check for vacuum leaks

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/539261-ls1-ls6-crank-sensor-trigger-information-request.html

24x and 58x you could have an early ls2

As for the tach you have an interesting case. You state your engine runs but tach doesn't work. And you never touched the wiring to the dash. Did you. all connectors are firmly on the ecm

The tach signal to dash is supplied by the ecm. The ecm gets the signal from the crank wheel. Which others claim will not start if it is the wrong one. But there could be the possibility the car will run at the wrong rpm with the wrong wheel which would need to be calibrated in

Last edited by shotty128; Aug 4, 2007 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Ill check for vacuum leaks, because Im pretty sure the crankshaft reluctor wheel is the correct one. I was worried that it could have been that but the companyn that I bought my rotating assembly from told me it was the correct one for an ls1 car. There is a tube going into the back of the intake on an LS1 next to the MAF sensor, that I believe I left disconnected, could this be the cause of the problem?
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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I think I know what tube your talking about does it have a tap for a gauge. Plug any holes that could let air in.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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It is the wiring going to the cam sensor. If you bought a relocation harness from Doggins or some where else the wires in it need to be swapped. I had the same problem along with another buddy of mine. Basically the cam sensor is not working right now. I can not remember for sure which wires it was. I believe it is the 2 out side wires.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by phildo
It is the wiring going to the cam sensor. If you bought a relocation harness from Doggins or some where else the wires in it need to be swapped. I had the same problem along with another buddy of mine. Basically the cam sensor is not working right now. I can not remember for sure which wires it was. I believe it is the 2 out side wires.
something with the cam or cam sensor. The tach signal comes from the cam position sensor, the rest of the pcm uses the crank position. I just went through this same thing, but mine was after a cam install, and it turned out to be that the cam was ground from a bad core. I was also throwing a code (P0343).
I have heard about having to swap the wires in the cam relocation wiring for a LS2 conversion, but I don't remember which wires.
Here's what the wires are anyway:
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by phildo
It is the wiring going to the cam sensor. If you bought a relocation harness from Doggins or some where else the wires in it need to be swapped. I had the same problem along with another buddy of mine. Basically the cam sensor is not working right now. I can not remember for sure which wires it was. I believe it is the 2 out side wires.
I purchased my cam postion sensor extension from Katech. If this is the reason for my tach not working I would be a little pissed, and demand a refund. Could you please elaborate on exactly what was wrong and what needs to be done to fix it. I really hope that this solves the problem. Thanks
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 06:07 PM
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Thanks for the diagram calongo_ss. So that is how the plug should be wired that goes to the cam postion sensor?
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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Katech is who me and a friend used and the wires had to be switched. I think it was the end wires a+c. I guarantee it is it. Also check the short extension plug on the cover. I have heard of those being swapped also.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fastGBcamaro
Thanks for the diagram calongo_ss. So that is how the plug should be wired that goes to the cam postion sensor?
you got it.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Swap the outer two wires as mentioned and it should work.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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someone want to elaborate on this. the pic of above is for an ls1 cam sensor. The pic i am not posting as that is copy righted material such as the one above and has the same pinout for the ls2.

pins abc are the same as abc for the ls2.

so why are you swapping 12V with the cam signal? Please do post if putting 12V on the cam signal wire works.

Last edited by shotty128; Aug 7, 2007 at 12:23 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 11:09 AM
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I did a cam,heads swap for a guy a few weeks back and on startup the same thing happend..it turned out being the the plug on the PCM was loose.make sure they are tight and your coilpacks are pluged in good
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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In the ls2 conversion harness there is a connector that goes back of the engine on the harness for the cam sensor. It has three wires and is VERY similar to the connection of the MAF sensor. I used a bent paper clip and removed and switched the outside to wires on the weatherpack connector and got the tach and better start up manners!

The Katech harness is the one that SDPC sells. Don't know why there is still more of these going out its kind of ridiculous.
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