Using Factory Clutch Switch for 2-Step Activation
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From: Decatur, Indiana
Using Factory Clutch Switch for 2-Step Activation I am installing a Linginfelter 2-Step controller in my car and want to use the factory clutch switch. Here is what I have found out so far.
1 - There are two switches, one is for the Cruise Control and PCM and is normally closed. Opens when pedal is pushed. The second switch is for the Starter Relay and functions as a safety switch to keep the starter from engaging when the clutch pedal is not depressed.
2 - The CPP (clutch pedal position) switch used for starter supplys +12 volts to relay when the pedal is depressed. One problem with this, the +12 volt is only present when the Ignition Swicth is in the Starter Engage position.
I am thinking that I can unplug the factory harness from the CPP switch. This is a 2 wire connector. I will run a +12 volt source to one pin on the CPP switch. I will go from the other CPP switch pin out to the Activation wire on LNC-001 Launch Controller and to temrinal #85 on a Relay. I will connect terminal #86 of the relay to Ground. Then connect the two factory CPP switch wires to terminals #30 and #87 on the relay.
If I have this figured correctly I can then use the Factory CPP Switch to run my 2-Step and the Starter will not engage unless the clutch is depressed.
Well now that I wrote this all out I should try to make a wiring diagram. Might take less time then typing this
1 - There are two switches, one is for the Cruise Control and PCM and is normally closed. Opens when pedal is pushed. The second switch is for the Starter Relay and functions as a safety switch to keep the starter from engaging when the clutch pedal is not depressed.
2 - The CPP (clutch pedal position) switch used for starter supplys +12 volts to relay when the pedal is depressed. One problem with this, the +12 volt is only present when the Ignition Swicth is in the Starter Engage position.
I am thinking that I can unplug the factory harness from the CPP switch. This is a 2 wire connector. I will run a +12 volt source to one pin on the CPP switch. I will go from the other CPP switch pin out to the Activation wire on LNC-001 Launch Controller and to temrinal #85 on a Relay. I will connect terminal #86 of the relay to Ground. Then connect the two factory CPP switch wires to terminals #30 and #87 on the relay.
If I have this figured correctly I can then use the Factory CPP Switch to run my 2-Step and the Starter will not engage unless the clutch is depressed.
Well now that I wrote this all out I should try to make a wiring diagram. Might take less time then typing this
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I drove the car today. I found that by having the clutch switch/2-step active when shifting I could keep the throttle wide open and when the clutch pedal was depressed for the shift the 2-Step would kill the engine(as long as RPM is above set point) and it would go into the next gear easier than normal shifting by lifting the throttle. Also no nasty gear crunch with WOT shift.
I do not think it would work well if the tires were spinning though. Not much point in power shifting if the tires are up in smoke anyways.
Now I am going to wire so that the Nitrous is disabled during 2-Step Activation/Shift so I can run Nitrous with WOT shifts.
I do not think it would work well if the tires were spinning though. Not much point in power shifting if the tires are up in smoke anyways.
Now I am going to wire so that the Nitrous is disabled during 2-Step Activation/Shift so I can run Nitrous with WOT shifts.
Originally Posted by Technoman64
I drove the car today. I found that by having the clutch switch/2-step active when shifting I could keep the throttle wide open and when the clutch pedal was depressed for the shift the 2-Step would kill the engine(as long as RPM is above set point) and it would go into the next gear easier than normal shifting by lifting the throttle. Also no nasty gear crunch with WOT shift.
I do not think it would work well if the tires were spinning though. Not much point in power shifting if the tires are up in smoke anyways.
Now I am going to wire so that the Nitrous is disabled during 2-Step Activation/Shift so I can run Nitrous with WOT shifts.
I do not think it would work well if the tires were spinning though. Not much point in power shifting if the tires are up in smoke anyways.
Now I am going to wire so that the Nitrous is disabled during 2-Step Activation/Shift so I can run Nitrous with WOT shifts.
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From: Decatur, Indiana
I had it set at 3,000 RPM when testing. I think I could go as high as 4,000 to 4,500 and it would still work fine as long as I am shifting at around 6,000 to 6,500 RPM.
I use an engine kill on my motorcycle to do WOT shifts along with an air cylinder.
The engine kill creates an instant backlash and it shifted great. At least this is my experiance with the setup so far. I will be doing more testing in the very near future.
I use an engine kill on my motorcycle to do WOT shifts along with an air cylinder.
The engine kill creates an instant backlash and it shifted great. At least this is my experiance with the setup so far. I will be doing more testing in the very near future.
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This is good info. What kind of relay are you using? I normally just use like the bosch(i think) 4 or 5 wire relay for anything needing it. What type did you use? I dont know about the ones with the pin # like you used. Also, how are you going to wire the switch to disengauge the nitrous? I'd like to do this also...
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From: Decatur, Indiana
Just about any automotive style relay will work. You can get complete diagrams from Linginfelters now. I believe they are updating the user manual to include detailed wiring diagrams. If you are unable to get one from them post or PM a message to me and I can email a diagram to you.
