Starting with the specs:
2002 SS with a new 402 LS2
11.5:1 compression ratio
244/250...114 LSA cam
AFR 225 62cc heads
Kook's headers
FAST 90/90 Intake/TB
SLP 85mm MAF
42lb Racetronix injectors (48.83lb/hr @ 58psi)
255lph fuel pump
Manual transmission

What I've done to the tune:
1 - Adjusted for cylinder size
2 - AIR delete
3 - Rear O2 delete
4 - CAGS delete
5 - adjusted fans for 160 degree thermostat
6 - adjusted rev limiters (7200 rpm)
7 - adjusted for fuel injectors (Flow Rate vs KPS information taken from the spreadsheet floating around, and Offset vs Volts vs VAC decreased across the board 12%)
8 - Set up for SD (turned off MAF, adjusted error codes, etc.)
9 - Adjusted idle tables and mapped the main spark advance tables for a smooth transition
10 - Adjusted VE table to a semi-known rich table (advised on HPT forum)
11 - Added 2g/sec fuel the base running airflow table

At this point, this is what I know:
- I have adjusted the timing around idle conditions to get it started and what seemed to be running smoothly (would hold idle, would come back when I revved it a bit in neutral). Commanding the idle through the VCM controls seemed to provide the lowest MAP and the "best sound" at a little over 30 degrees, so I set the tables to be around 28 in order to let the PCM have a little control...
- the VE table is rich and needs to be brought in line via driving around and logging
- it will not hold an idle once I start moving (I have keep giving the car gas whenever I go back into neutral or it will die)
- it bucks like crazy under low load conditions
- won't start or run at all now (unless I hold down the gas)

My assumptions are:
- the spark tables are not anywhere close to where they need to be. I'm not sure how I should be adjusting them from the stock tables to get me driving confidently though.
- there is something else going on when I let off the gas that is killing the car - DFCO is off, MAP/Advance/AFR all seem to stay constant but the rpms just drop until it dies unless I give it gas

Any advice? I'm at the point that describes me... Maybe I'm just overloading myself with data and I just need a break.

Current tune and 2 logs are attached below. The "VE 3" log is driving home from the gas station - you can see the surging at around 1:20. The "Won't Start 2" log is precisely that, 10 minutes after I got home and went back out it wouldn't start and idle at all.

Thanks for any advice.

 

Your IAC counts are very high hot; 146. Your idle will be greatly improved as well as general starting... Adjust your TB to about 3-4 % TPS with the key on and scanning then reset your TPS. make sure it shows zero % TPS when they key is back on and scanning. Check your IAC counts hot. Hopefully they will be in the 40s-60s, and if so you are good. If not, you may have to drill your blade. If that cam were in a 34X" engine you would likely have to drill, but it may behave well enough with that 40X" and the 90mm TBs ability to flow more when cracked open than a factory TB. Once you get this done, log desired airflow and adjust your idle airflow table to match. The area you get that bucking in may lessen or get worse with the airflow changes. Once the airflow is right, if still bucking then work out the AFR. Once AFR is good you will likely find that you will end up pulling a LOT of timing out in the area that is bucking. Look at the logs and see where you are on the timing map when it is bucking.

long winded, I have had a few this evening.

 

Yeah your running airflow action number 11. Is just a guess, tune it properly and that will help.
Also check your base idle timing. You want it at a midpoint between MBT and slow down retarded so that the ECM and vary eitherway to either speed up or slow down idle to manage things.

 

After twisting my head all day yesterday around this thing, feeling like I'm making progress and then feeling like I am most definitely retarded, I can relate to having a few

I will try opening the blade a tad more and see if I can pull the IAC counts down. I put it between 1-2% yesterday and reset the sensor, and didn't even think about doing more last night. What is the max that one would really want to go before deciding to drill?

ringram - I'm not sure what you imply by "running airflow action number 11." Would you mind expanding on that thought?

I appreciate the help - just need the neighbors to wake up so I can start trying things out again.

 

Ok - so I went out and adjusted the set screw on the TB a few times in an effort to get the IAC to move down - no such luck. I started over with the screw out, and then went in 2% increments until I couldn't get the TPS to reset to 0%.

At what I believe is the max I can give it - I am still getting IAC in the 180-210 range. It is this high regardless of where the set screw is. What am I missing that effects this? Should I be making adjustments to the IAC Steps vs Effective Area? The Desired IAC Area Max?

I don't mind drilling a hole if that is what is required, but I also don't want to jump the gun here. I would think that something else needs to be adjusted since I am not making any improvements with the set screw whatsoever...