Edited out vats with hptuners still won't start
10-19-2007, 03:44 PM
#1
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Edited out vats with hptuners still won't start It does start, as long as I put the key in the ignition and turn to on. Then open the hood pull starter relay and jump I think 87 and 30 which turns the starter over. Fires up immediately.
So I guess maybe my switch isn't working right or maybe the bcm is wacked.
Short term I'm gonna wire in a starter button but any thoughts on where to start.
I'm just glad I can drive it now so the starter button might become a permanent solution unless I have some good suggestions.....
So I guess maybe my switch isn't working right or maybe the bcm is wacked.
Short term I'm gonna wire in a starter button but any thoughts on where to start.
I'm just glad I can drive it now so the starter button might become a permanent solution unless I have some good suggestions.....
10-19-2007, 03:49 PM
#2
There may be a problem with the wiring in the shift interlock. This is intended to prevent you from starting the car when it's in drive.
I don't remember if that interlock switch is on the hot side or the ground side of the relay switch though, as far as testing for it at the relay pins...
I don't remember if that interlock switch is on the hot side or the ground side of the relay switch though, as far as testing for it at the relay pins...
10-20-2007, 11:35 AM
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I matched the key and made a resistor to match and bypassed the key. Worked some of the time so I had to have done it right or it wouldn't have worked at all.
10-20-2007, 11:57 AM
#6
The BCM does 2 things to prevent "theft" .... one is a signal to the PCM which you disabled by turning off VATS, the second thing is it controls the purple wire that turns the starter.
Somewhere around here is info on measuring the resistor pellet in the key (assuming that key used to work) and then going into the wiring and adding a fixed resistor that matches the key. Sounds like this is your problem. Did you have to replace your BCM at one time or something?
-edit-
you guys posted while I had this open in a tab.... sounds like your values may be matching up
Somewhere around here is info on measuring the resistor pellet in the key (assuming that key used to work) and then going into the wiring and adding a fixed resistor that matches the key. Sounds like this is your problem. Did you have to replace your BCM at one time or something?
-edit-
you guys posted while I had this open in a tab.... sounds like your values may be matching up
10-20-2007, 12:41 PM
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Never replaced bcm. I just got the car like a month ago and it was a retired colorado state patrol car. From the records I obtained from the seller he was the only other owner besides colorado and the mileage accumulated during the time of possesion was about 1000 in a year. he NEGLECTED to inform me that it had a random no start problem I didn't figure that little nugget of information out until I was stranded at a gas station bout 5 days later. ( didn't drive the car until I had proof of insurance and a tag ). Played phone tag with seller and never actually managed to get hold of him. (pretty sure he screened his calls).
Anyway I research it and manage to figure out it sounds like my passkey system is failing. I have the security light and sometimes the key works and sometimes it doesn't. I locate the wires under the dash. They are in a orange wrapper that goes to a connector that then has a wht/blk and purple/wht wires coming from it. I measure my key and make a resistor out of a couple of ones I have at the office and it matches my key spot on with two different ohm meters. Wire in the resistor and guess what. It works. Some of the time. Just like the fargin key. So I order Hptuners and program out vats in the pcm. No dice. Still have security light and no starter function. I get pissed and yank the starter relay look closely at it and figure out which two are switched and jump it with a wire while the ignition is on. Viola!!!!!! (did the same trick before hptuners and no dice cause fuel was cut off).
I fear that when the police equipment was removed some wiring was damaged.
Anyway I research it and manage to figure out it sounds like my passkey system is failing. I have the security light and sometimes the key works and sometimes it doesn't. I locate the wires under the dash. They are in a orange wrapper that goes to a connector that then has a wht/blk and purple/wht wires coming from it. I measure my key and make a resistor out of a couple of ones I have at the office and it matches my key spot on with two different ohm meters. Wire in the resistor and guess what. It works. Some of the time. Just like the fargin key. So I order Hptuners and program out vats in the pcm. No dice. Still have security light and no starter function. I get pissed and yank the starter relay look closely at it and figure out which two are switched and jump it with a wire while the ignition is on. Viola!!!!!! (did the same trick before hptuners and no dice cause fuel was cut off).
I fear that when the police equipment was removed some wiring was damaged.
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10-20-2007, 11:39 PM
#8
Looks like there could be a couple things to look into.
Grab a volt meter and make sure that terminal 85 ov the starter relay gets +12V when you try to crank the engine. If it does not and the starter 15A minifuse in the underhood fusebox is good then check out the Park/neutral switch in the console. Pin E (ppl/wht) should get +12V when you crank it, if it doesn`t check the ignition switch. Pin F (dk grn) should output +12V when you crank it.
If terminal 85 gets +12V when cranking then check to make sure terminal 86 gets grounded. If terminal 86 is open check to make sure that pin B (orn/blk) on the Park neutral switch is grounded with the car in park or neutral.
Grab a volt meter and make sure that terminal 85 ov the starter relay gets +12V when you try to crank the engine. If it does not and the starter 15A minifuse in the underhood fusebox is good then check out the Park/neutral switch in the console. Pin E (ppl/wht) should get +12V when you crank it, if it doesn`t check the ignition switch. Pin F (dk grn) should output +12V when you crank it.
If terminal 85 gets +12V when cranking then check to make sure terminal 86 gets grounded. If terminal 86 is open check to make sure that pin B (orn/blk) on the Park neutral switch is grounded with the car in park or neutral.
10-22-2007, 12:54 PM
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Looks like there could be a couple things to look into.
Grab a volt meter and make sure that terminal 85 ov the starter relay gets +12V when you try to crank the engine. If it does not and the starter 15A minifuse in the underhood fusebox is good then check out the Park/neutral switch in the console. Pin E (ppl/wht) should get +12V when you crank it, if it doesn`t check the ignition switch. Pin F (dk grn) should output +12V when you crank it.
If terminal 85 gets +12V when cranking then check to make sure terminal 86 gets grounded. If terminal 86 is open check to make sure that pin B (orn/blk) on the Park neutral switch is grounded with the car in park or neutral.
Grab a volt meter and make sure that terminal 85 ov the starter relay gets +12V when you try to crank the engine. If it does not and the starter 15A minifuse in the underhood fusebox is good then check out the Park/neutral switch in the console. Pin E (ppl/wht) should get +12V when you crank it, if it doesn`t check the ignition switch. Pin F (dk grn) should output +12V when you crank it.
If terminal 85 gets +12V when cranking then check to make sure terminal 86 gets grounded. If terminal 86 is open check to make sure that pin B (orn/blk) on the Park neutral switch is grounded with the car in park or neutral.
