Which LM-1 is ideal for EFILive/Roadrunner?
10-22-2007, 05:31 AM
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Which LM-1 is ideal for EFILive/Roadrunner? http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...d=666&pcid=155
Anyone have useful experience with any of these LM-1's?
Anyone have useful experience with any of these LM-1's?
10-22-2007, 06:26 AM
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If your using EFI Live and the roadrunner you can save some money and not Buy the LM-1, you can buy the LC-1.
The LC-1 is the same sensor/controller but it does not have all the datalogging functions, but since you have EFI Live you dont need those functions anyways
The LC-1 is the same sensor/controller but it does not have all the datalogging functions, but since you have EFI Live you dont need those functions anyways
10-22-2007, 09:55 AM
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Contrariwise, if you plan to work on multiple vehicles, the "meter"
form of the LM-1 is a lot more toolbox-tolerant and portable; to
work on old non-EFI motors you might want the RPM converter
and if you were going to go really nuts like instrumenting up MAP
or whatever to pick your Holley power valve P/N for example, the
AuxBox would be handy.
For just what's stated and not wanting more A-pillar blinky-blinky
I'd say the basic LM-1. "Analog output cable" is a stereo 1/8"
patch cord, don't pay extra for that. Kit should come with a
wideband bung and plug, don't use the plug (soft stainless Allen
which will end up stuck and round out on you) but get a Toyota
18mm oil pan drain plug from the Zone.
form of the LM-1 is a lot more toolbox-tolerant and portable; to
work on old non-EFI motors you might want the RPM converter
and if you were going to go really nuts like instrumenting up MAP
or whatever to pick your Holley power valve P/N for example, the
AuxBox would be handy.
For just what's stated and not wanting more A-pillar blinky-blinky
I'd say the basic LM-1. "Analog output cable" is a stereo 1/8"
patch cord, don't pay extra for that. Kit should come with a
wideband bung and plug, don't use the plug (soft stainless Allen
which will end up stuck and round out on you) but get a Toyota
18mm oil pan drain plug from the Zone.
10-22-2007, 12:38 PM
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Contrariwise, if you plan to work on multiple vehicles, the "meter"
form of the LM-1 is a lot more toolbox-tolerant and portable; to
work on old non-EFI motors you might want the RPM converter
and if you were going to go really nuts like instrumenting up MAP
or whatever to pick your Holley power valve P/N for example, the
AuxBox would be handy.
For just what's stated and not wanting more A-pillar blinky-blinky
I'd say the basic LM-1. "Analog output cable" is a stereo 1/8"
patch cord, don't pay extra for that. Kit should come with a
wideband bung and plug, don't use the plug (soft stainless Allen
which will end up stuck and round out on you) but get a Toyota
18mm oil pan drain plug from the Zone.
form of the LM-1 is a lot more toolbox-tolerant and portable; to
work on old non-EFI motors you might want the RPM converter
and if you were going to go really nuts like instrumenting up MAP
or whatever to pick your Holley power valve P/N for example, the
AuxBox would be handy.
For just what's stated and not wanting more A-pillar blinky-blinky
I'd say the basic LM-1. "Analog output cable" is a stereo 1/8"
patch cord, don't pay extra for that. Kit should come with a
wideband bung and plug, don't use the plug (soft stainless Allen
which will end up stuck and round out on you) but get a Toyota
18mm oil pan drain plug from the Zone.
This is EXACTLY the answer for which I was searching
10-22-2007, 09:02 PM
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Jimmy, will the resistor in the SLP 85mm MAF degrade or malfunction in time?
I ask because it was fairly easy to re-tune with the SLP unit as/is; therefore I wouldn't want to tune all over again without the resistor
Thanks for the help BTW
How much and do you have the basic LM-1 in stock?
I ask because it was fairly easy to re-tune with the SLP unit as/is; therefore I wouldn't want to tune all over again without the resistor
Thanks for the help BTW
How much and do you have the basic LM-1 in stock?
