Log Works vs. HP tuners
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Tellico Plains, TN
Log Works vs. HP tuners Thought I'd get more of a response in a separate thread. Logging my LC1 through the rear o2 sensor and finally got it working properly, or so I think. When comparing the Log Works and HP tuners at idle I see a difference of anywhere from 0, to .5, to 1.0 in my AFR, the Log Works showing leaner. What would cause this? Or is that normal? I wouldn't think so; but I know almost nothing on the matter. Thanks!
you proabaly have a ground offset somehwere...FYI LogWorks reads the AFR digitally straight from the sensor, bypassing the analog side of the controller...in short if both read differently, believe LogWorks...
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Tellico Plains, TN
Not to sound dumb; but please explain ground offset. I knew that the Log Works came straight from the sensor, I didn't know how much difference I should be seeing. Thanks!
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Tellico Plains, TN
Okay, then what would make it do this? A crappy solder maybe? I would think that the grounds for the factory o2 should be pretty good. I appreciate the info guys, please keep it coming. I need all the help I can get.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Tellico Plains, TN
They are both grounded through the o2 sensor. The stock sensor ground for the system and the stock heater ground for the heater. Maybe the solder on the out put wire back to the computer? I've got it in my lap as we speak so I may check the solder and redo it to see if that corrects it. Thanks guys! Any more suggestions?
Trending Topics
They are both grounded through the o2 sensor. The stock sensor ground for the system and the stock heater ground for the heater. Maybe the solder on the out put wire back to the computer? I've got it in my lap as we speak so I may check the solder and redo it to see if that corrects it. Thanks guys! Any more suggestions?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo
Try grounding the LC-1 to the engine block, and try again. I have mine grounded to the passenger side head, and the XD-1 gauge and HPT agree at all times, 100%.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Tellico Plains, TN
I fooled around with it some today, I had re-soldered my connections to get that variable completely out of the way. Seemed to be a little better; but still slightly different. As suggested, I'll probably ground to engine and maybe source a new power supply. It will have to wait a little while though due to work. I think that I will also swap the pin on the pcm from the stock rear nbo2 to where the egr pin is on the computer. Anyone know the pin #'s for the rear o2s? Could someone who has done this through the rear o2s also chime in on your readings in HP or EFI vs. your Log Works. Thanks again to all.
I fooled around with it some today, I had re-soldered my connections to get that variable completely out of the way. Seemed to be a little better; but still slightly different. As suggested, I'll probably ground to engine and maybe source a new power supply. It will have to wait a little while though due to work. I think that I will also swap the pin on the pcm from the stock rear nbo2 to where the egr pin is on the computer. Anyone know the pin #'s for the rear o2s? Could someone who has done this through the rear o2s also chime in on your readings in HP or EFI vs. your Log Works. Thanks again to all.
Can you compare the raw voltage output between both? Once upon a time, I set my LC-1 to output a fixed voltage for all AFRs (you can program it to do that if I'm remembering right)...in HPT, you can log raw voltage input, and let it run in a histogram to show you the overall average voltage.
If you tell the LC-1 to output 2.5V for all AFRs, and HPT reads 2.5V in, then you don't have a voltage offset problem.
Try that and let us know what you find. It could be something as simple as a miscalibration in your logging software...
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Tellico Plains, TN
Okay, after a long delay I finally was able to try this. One thing I did do is put the o2 voltage wire into pin 55 on the computer, adjusted my pid in HP tuners, and enabled EGR in my computer. After setting up my LC1 for 5v, I checked by flat lining the LC1 at different values and checking in HP tuners. With the key on and engine not running at 2.5v on LC1, I get 2.504 in HP tuners. With car at idle I get 2.506-2.508. This is as far off as the voltage gets. Tried it at 1v, 2.5v, and 5v. With the 2.5v having the most or same offset. My problem NOW is that in Logworks, I see 7.4 regardless of what I set my voltage at. Running or not. After it sits for a few minutes on, it will slowly begin to climb in a jittery manner until it pegs out. With the LC1 flat lined at 1v! Now I'm getting fed up with this! Any suggestions? Bad o2 sensor maybe? If so, that sucks cause it is never been used to tune with yet!
7.4 sounds to me like a bad sensor, or the controller is bad. Have you tried asking these questions through Innovate's forum? That was the first place I turned with my questions, and they usually have a pretty good clue as to what to do next.
The LC-1 is very sensitive to how it is wired to your car, and there have been a lot of failures due to improper install.
The LC-1 is very sensitive to how it is wired to your car, and there have been a lot of failures due to improper install.
Sounds like your controller is fine. Your offset is .04vdc. You need to account for this in the HPT PID. Then you need to set your LC-1 analog out channel back to the original configuration for HPT. Note, everytime you re-program your LC-1 you need to completely power it down (including pulling both the serial to USB cable to your laptop and the gnd wire to HPT-as these can prevent the LC-1 from fully shutting down) and close out the LM Programer software.
