Lc1 Keeps Killnig Sensors
If you have it grounded somewhere inside. Can you jsut do a large gauge jumper from the grounded point inside, through the firewall and to the back of the head?
I feel that would be a easier solution for me. Though mine hasn't acted up, im going to fix the problem before it happens.
I feel that would be a easier solution for me. Though mine hasn't acted up, im going to fix the problem before it happens.
I would recommend just sending the whole ground to the cylinder heads. I am going to try and install my LC-1 this weekend and hope if I send both groundwires to the cylinder heads I will not have these problems.
The analog out ground has to be grounded to your datalogger ground.(Which gets it's ground via the data port which goes directly to the pcm ground.) The heater/system grounds need to goto the back of the head/engine block. This is easy on an Fbody, just go thru the passenger side kick panel where the rest of the wires go thru the firewall to the pcm.
The LM-1 is a fine product. It uses the same guts as the LC-1 for operation. The difference is you get the indicator box and power/ground isolation circuitry. It is the only current commercial stand alone wideband 02 that you can easily take from one vehicle to the next that I know of. I don't think it's worth it if you are datalogging just one vehicle but, some may want to use it as a gage to keep track of their A/F once the tune is done. In that case I would think a stand alone would be more esthetically pleasing. The least productive reason for buying an LM-1 would be to justify not being able to set up the LC-1 correctly.
The LM-1 is a fine product. It uses the same guts as the LC-1 for operation. The difference is you get the indicator box and power/ground isolation circuitry. It is the only current commercial stand alone wideband 02 that you can easily take from one vehicle to the next that I know of. I don't think it's worth it if you are datalogging just one vehicle but, some may want to use it as a gage to keep track of their A/F once the tune is done. In that case I would think a stand alone would be more esthetically pleasing. The least productive reason for buying an LM-1 would be to justify not being able to set up the LC-1 correctly.
The analog out ground has to be grounded to your datalogger ground.(Which gets it's ground via the data port which goes directly to the pcm ground.) The heater/system grounds need to goto the back of the head/engine block. This is easy on an Fbody, just go thru the passenger side kick panel where the rest of the wires go thru the firewall to the pcm.
The LM-1 is a fine product. It uses the same guts as the LC-1 for operation. The difference is you get the indicator box and power/ground isolation circuitry. It is the only current commercial stand alone wideband 02 that you can easily take from one vehicle to the next that I know of. I don't think it's worth it if you are datalogging just one vehicle but, some may want to use it as a gage to keep track of their A/F once the tune is done. In that case I would think a stand alone would be more esthetically pleasing. The least productive reason for buying an LM-1 would be to justify not being able to set up the LC-1 correctly.
The LM-1 is a fine product. It uses the same guts as the LC-1 for operation. The difference is you get the indicator box and power/ground isolation circuitry. It is the only current commercial stand alone wideband 02 that you can easily take from one vehicle to the next that I know of. I don't think it's worth it if you are datalogging just one vehicle but, some may want to use it as a gage to keep track of their A/F once the tune is done. In that case I would think a stand alone would be more esthetically pleasing. The least productive reason for buying an LM-1 would be to justify not being able to set up the LC-1 correctly.
So if thats the case i plan on getting a little "power block" with a post in it (much like under the hood of our cars/trucks), mounting it under the dash where all the lc1 wiring is, and running a large gauge wire from that post in the "block" to the back of the head. Ground everything there.
That sound kosher? lol
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Verdad Gallardo The Mor Ei Think About It I Just Think These Units Are Junk, If You Need Ground Isolation Circuitry To Mak It Work Right Then It Should Have Been Included.. I Know You Can Buy These Ground Filters Seeperate Or Like You Said Hook It To The Block But All Of These Are Really Just Ways Of Babying A Weak Product (imo)
The Mor Ei Think About It I Just Think These Units Are Junk, If You Need Ground Isolation Circuitry To Mak It Work Right Then It Should Have Been Included.. I Know You Can Buy These Ground Filters Seeperate Or Like You Said Hook It To The Block But All Of These Are Really Just Ways Of Babying A Weak Product (imo)
No I Realise That... Its Just A Pita When It Could Be Alot Easier Had The Unit Been Better Desgined...
Btw... I Checked My Wireing (its Been A While Since I Installed It) 1 Ground Was A Body Ground And The Other Was Ran To The Bolt That The Holds The Grounding Strap For The Motor..
In My Instructions It Only Says That You Need 2 Seperate Grounds It Does Not Say You Need To Be Grounded To The Block (although Im Not Gonna Argue This Point)
I Believe My Problem Is As Always Has Been That My Unit Does Not Adaquately Heat The Sensors .. This Is Why The Sensors Read At First And Then Foul Out Shortly After
Thanks Everyone For Your Help... All I Need To Do Now Is Get This Dam Unit Fixed
Btw... I Checked My Wireing (its Been A While Since I Installed It) 1 Ground Was A Body Ground And The Other Was Ran To The Bolt That The Holds The Grounding Strap For The Motor..
In My Instructions It Only Says That You Need 2 Seperate Grounds It Does Not Say You Need To Be Grounded To The Block (although Im Not Gonna Argue This Point)
I Believe My Problem Is As Always Has Been That My Unit Does Not Adaquately Heat The Sensors .. This Is Why The Sensors Read At First And Then Foul Out Shortly After
Thanks Everyone For Your Help... All I Need To Do Now Is Get This Dam Unit Fixed