Lc1 Keeps Killnig Sensors
Lc1 Keeps Killnig Sensors When Using My Lc-1 My 02 Sensors Seem To Fail After Only A Few Weeks ... Why Is This Happening?
I Have Sent My Unit Back To Them And They Replaced It Once Already But Like I Said I Put In A New Sensor It Works For A Few Days And Then It Slowly Starts To Fail
I Have Sent My Unit Back To Them And They Replaced It Once Already But Like I Said I Put In A New Sensor It Works For A Few Days And Then It Slowly Starts To Fail
Do you have it wired to a switch, or switched power? IE does the LC-1 power up everytime you run your car, or only when your logging? If the sensor is in the exhaust stream but not powered up, it will not last very long.
Yea I Dont Think Its Broken I Think It Just Sucks.. I Know A Shop That Uses One And Has The Same Problem
Good Thing Auto Zone Has A 1 Yr Warrenty On Their Snesors... Buy It Once And Just Keep On Exchangeing Them
Good Thing Auto Zone Has A 1 Yr Warrenty On Their Snesors... Buy It Once And Just Keep On Exchangeing Them
LC1-s are great widebands when installed correctly, but are very intolerant of any power/ground issues. Where are your grounds for the LC-1 located now?
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Verdad Gallardo Red - Switched 12 volt supply in my fuse box
Blue- Back of passenger head for ground
White- Back of passenger head for ground
Yellow- EFI Live V2 analog in
Black- cal LED (i dont use the pushbutton)
I have the 6 wire version (doesnt have a green analog ground)
You can check it by going into LM Programmer and force it to put out 5v @ 10AFR and 5vdc @ 20AFR on both analog ch1 and ch2. Close LM Programmer and pull the power to the LC-1. "Reboot" (apply power) to the LC-1 with either your scan tool or voltmeter check to see if it puts out anywhere near 5vdc on either anlog out. (~4-5vdc). If you have zero, the DAC is fried. Don't be fooled by still seeing the digital serial info displayed in LogWorks- that can still be intact- seprate chip.
The "Ground" it'self is not "bad." The location of it on the chassis is. Electrically, the chassis has alot of crap running around on it- Most noteworthy, the potential when the starter fires off. This is why your LC-1 seemed to work at first but then eventually failed. Note in the picture that the protection diode Innovate placed on the board by the blue heater ground wire has gone poof. If you look at the board, with a keen eye the design ckt traces tell the whole story.
Bottom line without going on an Apollo mission is make sure your Blue Wire-(Heater Ground) and if you have a 7 wire LC-1, green wire (analog ground)(and your data logger of course) are tied to the engine block- yep kiddies, your gonna have to go thru the firewall.
I can fix it.
N20 thru a MAF and IAT??? If you have a 99-02 Fbody, I can do a custom tune for you that will allow you to have max N/A around town and, at a flip of a switch pull timing and add fuel.
Contact info is in my sig.
Bottom line without going on an Apollo mission is make sure your Blue Wire-(Heater Ground) and if you have a 7 wire LC-1, green wire (analog ground)(and your data logger of course) are tied to the engine block- yep kiddies, your gonna have to go thru the firewall.
I can fix it.
N20 thru a MAF and IAT??? If you have a 99-02 Fbody, I can do a custom tune for you that will allow you to have max N/A around town and, at a flip of a switch pull timing and add fuel.
Contact info is in my sig.
