When Using My Lc-1 My 02 Sensors Seem To Fail After Only A Few Weeks ... Why Is This Happening?

I Have Sent My Unit Back To Them And They Replaced It Once Already But Like I Said I Put In A New Sensor It Works For A Few Days And Then It Slowly Starts To Fail

 

Do you have it wired to a switch, or switched power? IE does the LC-1 power up everytime you run your car, or only when your logging? If the sensor is in the exhaust stream but not powered up, it will not last very long.

 

Relayed Off The Ign Its On 100% Of The Time The Car Is On

 

It's funny, my LC-1 has gotten to where it tells me a new sensor is bad in almost no time; yet they work beautifully in the LM-1 AND in the PLX units that I tune with.

 

Yea I Dont Think Its Broken I Think It Just Sucks.. I Know A Shop That Uses One And Has The Same Problem

Good Thing Auto Zone Has A 1 Yr Warrenty On Their Snesors... Buy It Once And Just Keep On Exchangeing Them

 

LC1-s are great widebands when installed correctly, but are very intolerant of any power/ground issues. Where are your grounds for the LC-1 located now?

 

Grounded To The Body

 

Ive Installed This Thing 5 Times And Made 2 Harnesses B\c The "grounds Were Supposdly Bad".. I Dont Think This Is The Case Anymore

Personally I Think Thats Just A Tech Support Catch-all For A Crappy Product

 

no it's an issue, but you can cool believe it's not my issue either.

 

Heres how i have mine installed, and have no issues

Red - Switched 12 volt supply in my fuse box
Blue- Back of passenger head for ground
White- Back of passenger head for ground
Yellow- EFI Live V2 analog in
Black- cal LED (i dont use the pushbutton)

I have the 6 wire version (doesnt have a green analog ground)

 

Im Gonna Pull Mine Out .. Again!

I Have The One With A Analog Gorund

 

This is your problem. There is too much noise (especially the starter) on the chasis for the Digital to Analog Converter chip. If it is still under warranty Innovate will fix it. If it is not under warranty, I can fix it.

 

Is It Broken Now?

 

You can check it by going into LM Programmer and force it to put out 5v @ 10AFR and 5vdc @ 20AFR on both analog ch1 and ch2. Close LM Programmer and pull the power to the LC-1. "Reboot" (apply power) to the LC-1 with either your scan tool or voltmeter check to see if it puts out anywhere near 5vdc on either anlog out. (~4-5vdc). If you have zero, the DAC is fried. Don't be fooled by still seeing the digital serial info displayed in LogWorks- that can still be intact- seprate chip.

 

Body ground is no good , is the LC-1 installed in the body ?
I bet the LC-1 is installed in the exhaust pipe connected to the engine , that is why you ground to the engine .
Doc , awesome website .

 

Wait That Dosent Make Any Sense.. If The Ground Was Bad Then Why Would It Work For For Weeks

 

Ill Give It A Try....

Hey Doc Can You Do N20 Tunes With The Maf And Iat?

IF SO PM ME SOME CONTACT INFO

 

The "Ground" it'self is not "bad." The location of it on the chassis is. Electrically, the chassis has alot of crap running around on it- Most noteworthy, the potential when the starter fires off. This is why your LC-1 seemed to work at first but then eventually failed. Note in the picture that the protection diode Innovate placed on the board by the blue heater ground wire has gone poof. If you look at the board, with a keen eye the design ckt traces tell the whole story.

Bottom line without going on an Apollo mission is make sure your Blue Wire-(Heater Ground) and if you have a 7 wire LC-1, green wire (analog ground)(and your data logger of course) are tied to the engine block- yep kiddies, your gonna have to go thru the firewall.

I can fix it.

N20 thru a MAF and IAT??? If you have a 99-02 Fbody, I can do a custom tune for you that will allow you to have max N/A around town and, at a flip of a switch pull timing and add fuel.
Contact info is in my sig.

 

So Why Does It Work When I Put A New Sensor In.. ?

 

where do you have your sensor mounted?