getting the 0171 & 0174 codes, which is right bank lean & left bank lean. what could be causing them? car runs ok, idles ok, but occasionally will dip down to 400-500 rpm. drives ok, but when i push in the clutch( to come to a stop from 55-60 mph) the rpm will rise from 1000-1100 rpm(cruising speed) to 1600-1700 rpm & hover there until I get below 20 mph ( this might be normal, I've never noticed it B 4 though)

car is stock, has lid, filter, cat back, ngk plugs, msd wires. none of these mods are recent.

anybody have suggestions for what I should start looking at?

 

anybody?

 

I would check your 02's make sure they are switching like they should. If you have not done any mods recently and these lights just came on it is most likely your 02's taking one for the team.

 

i swapped them out for a spare set i already had.they came off a friends car w/ 47k on it. they worked when they were on his car. drove it for 15 miles, the light went out & stayed out for 5 days. then it came back on

 

check fuel pressure 57-60lbs.

 

171 and 174 simultaneously could also be a vacuum/PCV issue. Look up P0171 for your year at gearchatter.com

 

This is a shot but I was getting alternating lean codes. Cleaned the MAF, been ok since. GL

 

Do you have scanner so you could look at your 02's switching and your fuel trims?

 

Yeah I am having the exact same issues on my 2000 SS!! Word for word you have described what my car is doing. I have: NW TB, FAST intake, QTP LT's, QTP Y-pipe, granetelli MAF, SLP lid, and I have the diablo programmer and have moved the fuel curves all the way to the rich side (13%) and retarded the timing to 4% and my light still keeps coming on in both banks!!! Car is running really sluggish like its gettin to much fuel!!! What should I do?

 

ok, great suggestions, thank yall

 

no, i dont. i borrowed a friends code reader. just shows the #

 

Sounds like a leak in both instances. Go over all your plumbing.

To the guy with the 90/90...did you use the supplied rounded off bolts for the valley cover that FAST should have supplied? Did you use the GM torque spec/sequence for the intake bolts? I have found it to be "loose" for the 90/90 setups I have encountered.

 

Put your stock MAF back on, i bet you that will solve it.
Set all the fuel curves in the Predator back to stock after you put the stock maf back.

 

Yes we used the supplied bolts when installing and we torqued them down to specs. although on on bolt we torqued it down and right before it was at full torque the intake popped! it was not loud just a little pop???? I wouldnt think that would of cracked it!!! I have had people much like the guy in this forum tell me to put the stock MAF back on!!! I dont know, I do think its getting unregistered air from somewhere!!

 

I will bet its a vacuum leak, check the hose that attaches to your intake gullet on the front left side, this one cracks alot.

 

pcv, hoses frist

 

He is right, the hose I described is the PVC hose, its cracks alot on the bend before plastic connector going to the intake gullet.

 

well, I replaced the pcv + the 2" hose. dont know if the hose was bad BEFORE I started pulling it off but it ripped & I replaced it too.

i drove it for 10-15 miles light went out, we'll see if it stays off this time..

oh, & BTW HAYNES service manual SUCK!!! it said the pcv was in the pass side valve cover. it even showed a pic. must be for 98-99. there was no adendum for 00-02 . its above the valve cover in line. took me 30 min to find that bish LOL

thanks for everyones help!!!

 

Haynes manual is trash, search for the Helms manuals, there are three volumes of manuals for each year for the F-Bod, it has everything you need, be prepared to drop alot more cash than the $20 that buys the parts store manual.