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LS2 conversion,, engine will not start

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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:14 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LS1curious
typical cranking speeds are around 200-250rpm. Sure you have the correct reluctor ring on teh cranksahft ?
Doing the math with the 24 vs 58 tooth reluctor:
He would be cranking the engine at 455 RPM when reading 1100 RPM with an incorrect tooth count. Does this sound feasible or still too high? If it's supposed to be at 200-250 I don't see him spinning it near this fast.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:52 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by LS1curious
typical cranking speeds are around 200-250rpm. Sure you have the correct reluctor ring on teh cranksahft ?
You know what . . the more I think about it . . I know this has to be true. There is now way this starter is spinning this engine at 1000 rpm. I mean . . It is a PORSCHE starter and the enigine does have 8.0 : 1 compression . but tthere is no way in hell this thing can spin that fast.

I removed the crank sensor . . and under better light. . it is definatley BLACK.

I can feel in the crank sensor hole with my finger and when I turn the engine over with a wrench in the other hand . . . I can feel the reluctor wheel. It is a staggered wheel and feels like morse code when I turn it. I has a smooth part, then a staggered dash, then smooth, then a staggered dash . . etc. It is not evenly spaced and feels random to the touch. I am told with that description that it is a ls1 reluctor wheel ? ? Is that right ?

I am using a BIG STUFF 3 controller for the engine and for some stupid reason . . it definatley says 1100 - 1200 rpm and you can even see it go up and down as the engine hits compresson on each stroke. VERY STRANGE.

Still no fire and no gas past the injector . . and the pink wire on my coils are hot with ignition on ! !


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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:54 AM
  #23  
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Is there a setting for number of cylinders in the controller software? Maybe it's thinking that it is a 4 cylinder?
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:58 AM
  #24  
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It is a lingfelter blower cam and let me pull up the software and double check my setting on the cylinders
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 11:59 AM
  #25  
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Did you use the LS2 cam gear, or an LS1 cam gear?
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:01 PM
  #26  
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It is definatley on 8 cylinders . .should I try 4 ?
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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You know what, I would try that. Because as I think about it, MSD RPM boxes for nitrous use have you set them up as a 4 cylinder.

Give that a go...
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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I didnt build that part of the motor . . so Im not sure.
Would an ls1 gear work at all with the sensor reading from the front of the motor ? Because the people who build the long block had this thing running on the dyno before they shipped it.
I am trying to look them up. . but it looks like they may not be in business anymore.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterchevylizzard
I didnt build that part of the motor . . so Im not sure.
Would an ls1 gear work at all with the sensor reading from the front of the motor ? Because the people who build the long block had this thing running on the dyno before they shipped it.
I am trying to look them up. . but it looks like they may not be in business anymore.
No, I don't believe it would read it. That could be your problem.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #30  
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Also, you don't necessarily need to have a cam position sensor working to get an engine to run. I know that with things like a Megasquirt you only need the crank position sensor.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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OK . . . . so my big stuff 3 is ls1 controller . . but now wired backwards is an ls2 controller . . . . my cam sensor is white so it is and ls2 cam sensor . . . and you think my cam has an ls1 gear on it ?

If it is an ls1 gear . . could I make it work with an ls1 senor in the front of the block ( would it even fit ? ) and switch the wires back to the original ABC setting on the pigtail ?
I dont think I could ! !
SO . . what Im saying is . . . someone had this motor runng already . . so it has to be the right gear on that cam . . other wise it would be impossible !
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:33 PM
  #32  
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No, some EFI systems do not require a cam position sensor. They go solely by the crank position sensor. The cam position sensor would not be needed then. Do you know what they had it running with on the dyno?

The LS1 sensor wouldn't fit. Needs to be an LS2 timing chain cover with proper cam gear.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:57 PM
  #33  
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NOPE . . I dont know what they were using ?! Could they be that stupid ?

Well . . is there anyway to test the signal from the sensor itself ?
Maybe power and ground it . . . and then put a volt meter on the signal wire and see how it pulses ?
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:58 PM
  #34  
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Well, they are out of business...

Does the BS3 require that you have the cam position sensor? I'll do some looking around online, see if I can find the link to the documentation...
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #35  
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Think I would be able to see in / feel in and tell which cam gear is on there ?
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #36  
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Well, if you pull timing chain cover you could peek inside. You'd want to feel if there is a semicircular raised ridge on the cam gear.

(The pic is from VHP)
Attached Thumbnails LS2 conversion,, engine will not start-compare-ls1-ls2-cam-gears-sm.jpg  
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 01:57 PM
  #37  
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You know. . .if my cam sensor is reading each and every one of those holes in the ls1 cam gear . . .then it would prolably multiply the signal out what looks like 9 times.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 03:30 PM
  #38  
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2005 LS2 Cam gear


24x crank reluctor wheel


24x


58x
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 03:34 PM
  #39  
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Mine is definatley an ls1 crank . . . cam gear info comming soon . . .
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 05:02 PM
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What about you DOC . . and luck with yours ?
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