LTRIMS on bank 2 are very positive, while bank 1 looks ok
#1
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LTRIMS on bank 2 are very positive, while bank 1 looks ok
LTRIMS on bank 2 are very positive, while bank 1 looks ok, and i am having a difficult time finding the problem. I am fairly certain i have no intake leaks, and i am using a different set of injectors with the same problem. What else could cause the two banks to be so wide apart ....
bank 1 is around -2/+2
Bank 2 is +4/+20
What can cause this condition? I'm looking for any kind of response albeit simple or off the wall. Thanks
Mods are
Comp 220/224 cam with stock MAF with screen and Mac Headers and a custom 3" y-pipe.
I have ls1 edit capabilities for tuning.... for the life of me, i cannot get my ltrims to be anywhere close to each other for both banks.....
Any info appreciated!
Brian
bank 1 is around -2/+2
Bank 2 is +4/+20
What can cause this condition? I'm looking for any kind of response albeit simple or off the wall. Thanks
Mods are
Comp 220/224 cam with stock MAF with screen and Mac Headers and a custom 3" y-pipe.
I have ls1 edit capabilities for tuning.... for the life of me, i cannot get my ltrims to be anywhere close to each other for both banks.....
Any info appreciated!
Brian
#2
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Re: LTRIMS on bank 2 are very positive, while bank 1 looks ok
Just a FYI, i realized it is possible o2 sensors could be the culprit....but they are within 20mv of each other at WOT.....
I have a log file if anyone wishes to view it
I have a log file if anyone wishes to view it
#3
Re: LTRIMS on bank 2 are very positive, while bank 1 looks ok
Possible intake gasket leak on the lifter gally side of the gasket on that bank only? Did you notice this immediately after the cam installation?
#4
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Re: LTRIMS on bank 2 are very positive, while bank 1 looks ok
Could be an exhaust leak, intake leak (as previously mentioned), bad injector on that bank, bad O2 sensor (either bank), misfire.
Intake Leak: Spray some propane around the intake (try to get in back and under the intake.) If the idle increases, you have an intake leak.
Exhaust Leak: Look at your exhaust and listen. Exhaust leaks get noticeably louder when you hammer the throttle. Listen for a hissing or popping sound when you mash the gas. Look at your headers, and 12 inches after your O2.
Bad Injector: Switch the injectors from one side to the other. If the problem follows, then a bad injector.
Bad O2 Sensor: Switch the O2 sensors from one side to the other. If the problem follows to the other side then it is an O2 sensor. If not, refer to the above suggestions.
Misfire: Check for codes. Car should run noticeably rougher. Let the car cool. Start the car, and let run for a couple seconds. Feel your header primaries right on startup (very quickly). If you have a cold one, then you have a dead cylinder.
Good Luck
Intake Leak: Spray some propane around the intake (try to get in back and under the intake.) If the idle increases, you have an intake leak.
Exhaust Leak: Look at your exhaust and listen. Exhaust leaks get noticeably louder when you hammer the throttle. Listen for a hissing or popping sound when you mash the gas. Look at your headers, and 12 inches after your O2.
Bad Injector: Switch the injectors from one side to the other. If the problem follows, then a bad injector.
Bad O2 Sensor: Switch the O2 sensors from one side to the other. If the problem follows to the other side then it is an O2 sensor. If not, refer to the above suggestions.
Misfire: Check for codes. Car should run noticeably rougher. Let the car cool. Start the car, and let run for a couple seconds. Feel your header primaries right on startup (very quickly). If you have a cold one, then you have a dead cylinder.
Good Luck