my car starts up but it is hard to start. when i drive it and when i come to a stop the car cuts off and then it is hard to start again. i had a p0336 code and i immeditly replace the crank position sensor and the problem still exist. some time when i am at high speeds the car will cut off and then come banck on. i dont know what the hell is the problem but i need to fix it asap

 

someone help me asap please

 

after i changed the 02s this problem started. on time i got 4 codes and they were low circut to the 02s both 02s pd what the hell is my problem someone please help

 

someone please

 

could be the wiring for the sensor.

 

would if it is not that

 

P0336 is telling you that you need to preform a crank position relearn with a scantool.

 

X2... the dealer can do it if you don't know anyone or have a scanner (not all scanners can do it). EFIlive can also do it.

 

The tech 2 and most newer snap on and matco scanners will let you do a ckp learn

 

Something is not making sense. You replace the 02s then get a crank code and the car is cutting out? Was this just a straight 02 swap? Why did you repalce them? Have you checked the wiring?

 

Hey Doc, P0336 is crankshaft sensor performance, P1336 is Crank position system variation, the code that calls for relearn. You can not do the re-learn if P0336 is actively set.

I had this last week on a car that swapped engines and initially though it was a relearn issue myself. At first, the car would lose tach signal and break up under light load and get worse at WOT... it had a new crank sensor in it. Tried another new crank sensor from GM and it wouldn't even idle and had no tach signal at all. After a bit of desperation and reading through some old posts, a tiny washer (between 1/2 and 1 mm thick) was placed between the block and the mounting tab to space it away a hair, and voila, all was beautiful.

To the original poster: your O2 wiring runs together with your crank sensor wire down the passenger side near the exhaust, it didn't get against the header did it?

 

no i checked the wire and no melted or pinched wires idk what to do. i am puzzled. please someone help me. i have a sputter at the line and car cuts off while driving and sometimes comes back to life by itself idk what the hell. someone ever heard this problem

 

now the car doesnt want to start and now its flooded and have the p0336 code passenger and driver side wtf you only have one crank sensor right

 

Come On Someone Please Help Me

 

Take it to a shop dude. With the amount of info you're providing, no one is going to be able to fix your car through the internet.

 

+1...


though did you try what I posted about using something thin like a paperclip or ULTRA-thin washer to space the sensor out? I know the starter has to come down, but what's 2 bolts really...

If not, you're gonna have to bite the bullet before you wash down your cylinders trying to crank it and ruin your engine. That means doing it sooner rather than later.

 

The following conditions may cause this DTC to set:

- Poor connections/terminal tension at the sensor. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis In Wiring Systems.

- Crankshaft reluctor wheel damage or improper installation.

- The sensor coming in contact with the reluctor wheel.

- The engine running out of fuel.

- If the crankshaft rotates backwards, this DTC sets. This condition is only with vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This condition can occur when a vehicle is on an incline and the clutch is released and an engine stall occurs.

• Excessive crankshaft end play will cause the CKP sensor reluctor wheel to move out of alignment with the CKP sensor. This could result in any one of the following:

- A no start

- A start and stall

- Erratic performance

• An improperly installed propeller shaft could cause excess crankshaft end play. Refer to Propeller Shaft Diagnosis in Engine Mechanical.

• Using Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can aid in determining how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also aid determining how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.

 

So Do I Need To Put A Spacer In Between Them Like A Rubber Oring