need efilive help after h/c install
need efilive help after h/c install whats up guys, just need some quick help, i just got done installing my etp 215 heads and my 231/235,615/621,111+4 cam, fast 92/92, i really need help getting started on my tune, just need some help on what to do just to get the car running ok enough to get the car home from the shop, i mean not running to rich or lean enough to damage the car, i also installed lucas 42lbs injectors, any help would be appreciated.
have the shop tune it if they can but if not,
you will need to log and make frequent changes to the tune if you
are going to drive a long distance home.
running overly rich/lean can do damage.
a roadrunner comes in handy here.
log fuel pressure to get your injectors right
then do the open loop thing for fueling, this will take a few short logs to get you
started so you don`t run too rich/lean in open loop.
then go from there.
look here for some good starter info.
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=7867
you will need to log and make frequent changes to the tune if you
are going to drive a long distance home.
running overly rich/lean can do damage.
a roadrunner comes in handy here.
log fuel pressure to get your injectors right
then do the open loop thing for fueling, this will take a few short logs to get you
started so you don`t run too rich/lean in open loop.
then go from there.
look here for some good starter info.
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=7867
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, KY
The first thing I would do is rescale the injector table for those injectors if you haven't already. Then get your IAC counts down to around 50 at idle by adding air with the throttle stop screw (be sure to reset the TPS after each adjustment). Most likely you will need to make the hole in the butterfly slightly larger as you will run out of adjustment on the TPS sensor. Hopefully at this point it idles and you have a wideband hooked up. Flash in an open loop tune and unplug the MAF. Log with your wideband and rescale the lower portion of the VE table to get your AFR in the ballpark. RAFPN should be next to get desired airflow inline then you can drive it and start tuning.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Katherine N.T Australia
There are two ways to achieve more air at idle while keeping IAC steps down. Crack the TB. Or open up the TB hole.. I personally prefer to open up the hole as this will have no effect on the TPS sensor. Then again cracking the TB has merit too as you can always revert back.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, KY
I ran out of adjustment on my TB sensor and had to make the hole bigger or attempt to modify the sensor. Right now I have a comination of adjusted stop screw and enlarged hole. So the hole is not too big, and I can still fine tune it with the stop screw. To the OP: Another issue with adding airflow is the IAC effective area table. I'm still learning about all of this but from what I have read and experienced, you need to move the table to the right to compensate for the added airflow at idle. Otherwise you will get the infamous "hanging idle", which can also be caused by the throttle cracker, or desired airflow, but the IAC effective area table is also a reason this happens. Someone please correct/clarify if I'm wrong.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Katherine N.T Australia
You are probably right about the IAC effective area.. The problem is, how do you make educated changes to it? I've always just dialed in Desired Airflow with the RAFIG process to zero the idle trims. This removes most idle hanging issues. Cracker settings can be adjusted too for the individual. But I haven't had to mess with them to much in the past. Throttle Follower on the other hand generally needs some attention when large duration cams are fitted, but desired airflow is the most important table to get right. If its not dialled in you will chase your tale all day long.
