How do I make my LM-1 work with HPT Interface?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
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Posts: 1,441
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From: Shelby Twp. Mich
How do I make my LM-1 work with HPT Interface? What do I need to get my LM-1 Wide Band to work with my HPT interface?So I can Dial in my EQ at set MAP.I have the upgraded HPT interface(pins on the side)....
Thank you for the Help
Thank you for the Help
Connecting & configuring things can be found here http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_sca...connecting.htm
First question, go to the Shack and get a stereo 1/8" headphone
cable and cut off one end. The LM-1 has two analog voltage
outputs, I think #1 is tip and #2 is middle band but check the
LM-1 docs for that. You need the shield and tip wires. Use the
default LM-1 transfer-curve settings and the default HPTuners
PID for the LM-1 and it should be good to go. But you may want
to take a minute and tap the LM-1 output voltage with a meter,
read the output unscrewed and screwed into the EIO block and
see if you get good agreement, just to make sure your vehicle
and wire-ball have no ground loop error contribution.
For a standard interface, I would (did, once) get an O2 sensor
pigtail and solder it to a 'phone cable and plug it into the rear
O2 position, set up the transfer curve for 0-1V on the LM-1 and
program the same scale into a custom PID in HPTuners. You can
also use A/C pressure or EGR ports at 0-5V if you have those
connectors handy or tap the wires.
cable and cut off one end. The LM-1 has two analog voltage
outputs, I think #1 is tip and #2 is middle band but check the
LM-1 docs for that. You need the shield and tip wires. Use the
default LM-1 transfer-curve settings and the default HPTuners
PID for the LM-1 and it should be good to go. But you may want
to take a minute and tap the LM-1 output voltage with a meter,
read the output unscrewed and screwed into the EIO block and
see if you get good agreement, just to make sure your vehicle
and wire-ball have no ground loop error contribution.
For a standard interface, I would (did, once) get an O2 sensor
pigtail and solder it to a 'phone cable and plug it into the rear
O2 position, set up the transfer curve for 0-1V on the LM-1 and
program the same scale into a custom PID in HPTuners. You can
also use A/C pressure or EGR ports at 0-5V if you have those
connectors handy or tap the wires.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 1
From: Shelby Twp. Mich
First question, go to the Shack and get a stereo 1/8" headphone
cable and cut off one end. The LM-1 has two analog voltage
outputs, I think #1 is tip and #2 is middle band but check the
LM-1 docs for that. You need the shield and tip wires. Use the
default LM-1 transfer-curve settings and the default HPTuners
PID for the LM-1 and it should be good to go. But you may want
to take a minute and tap the LM-1 output voltage with a meter,
read the output unscrewed and screwed into the EIO block and
see if you get good agreement, just to make sure your vehicle
and wire-ball have no ground loop error contribution.
For a standard interface, I would (did, once) get an O2 sensor
pigtail and solder it to a 'phone cable and plug it into the rear
O2 position, set up the transfer curve for 0-1V on the LM-1 and
program the same scale into a custom PID in HPTuners. You can
also use A/C pressure or EGR ports at 0-5V if you have those
connectors handy or tap the wires.
cable and cut off one end. The LM-1 has two analog voltage
outputs, I think #1 is tip and #2 is middle band but check the
LM-1 docs for that. You need the shield and tip wires. Use the
default LM-1 transfer-curve settings and the default HPTuners
PID for the LM-1 and it should be good to go. But you may want
to take a minute and tap the LM-1 output voltage with a meter,
read the output unscrewed and screwed into the EIO block and
see if you get good agreement, just to make sure your vehicle
and wire-ball have no ground loop error contribution.
For a standard interface, I would (did, once) get an O2 sensor
pigtail and solder it to a 'phone cable and plug it into the rear
O2 position, set up the transfer curve for 0-1V on the LM-1 and
program the same scale into a custom PID in HPTuners. You can
also use A/C pressure or EGR ports at 0-5V if you have those
connectors handy or tap the wires.
I have the cord your talking about pos and neg wire with a headphone type jack that came with my LM-1 but I need the plug to plug into the side of HPT interface.Can I get this at Radio Shack?
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Plug should have come with the EIO cable. Little green block with
screw terminals which plugs onto the header posts. I know HPTuners
had some that they were selling pretty cheap at one time, the block
is kind of an oddball but they should either be able to provide you
one cheap or tell you the part / mfr so you can dig one up.
screw terminals which plugs onto the header posts. I know HPTuners
had some that they were selling pretty cheap at one time, the block
is kind of an oddball but they should either be able to provide you
one cheap or tell you the part / mfr so you can dig one up.
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Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 1
From: Shelby Twp. Mich
Less than $6 right here. http://www.hptuners.com/order.php
Thanks Guys and thanks for the link,I was going to go to HPT to find the part but just havent had time
So this is all I need to make my LM1 Wide Band work with my HPT? Last edited by Pro Mouse; Jul 3, 2008 at 06:43 PM.
First question, go to the Shack and get a stereo 1/8" headphone
cable and cut off one end. The LM-1 has two analog voltage
outputs, I think #1 is tip and #2 is middle band but check the
LM-1 docs for that. You need the shield and tip wires. Use the
default LM-1 transfer-curve settings and the default HPTuners
PID for the LM-1 and it should be good to go. But you may want
to take a minute and tap the LM-1 output voltage with a meter,
read the output unscrewed and screwed into the EIO block and
see if you get good agreement, just to make sure your vehicle
and wire-ball have no ground loop error contribution.
For a standard interface, I would (did, once) get an O2 sensor
pigtail and solder it to a 'phone cable and plug it into the rear
O2 position, set up the transfer curve for 0-1V on the LM-1 and
program the same scale into a custom PID in HPTuners. You can
also use A/C pressure or EGR ports at 0-5V if you have those
connectors handy or tap the wires.
cable and cut off one end. The LM-1 has two analog voltage
outputs, I think #1 is tip and #2 is middle band but check the
LM-1 docs for that. You need the shield and tip wires. Use the
default LM-1 transfer-curve settings and the default HPTuners
PID for the LM-1 and it should be good to go. But you may want
to take a minute and tap the LM-1 output voltage with a meter,
read the output unscrewed and screwed into the EIO block and
see if you get good agreement, just to make sure your vehicle
and wire-ball have no ground loop error contribution.
For a standard interface, I would (did, once) get an O2 sensor
pigtail and solder it to a 'phone cable and plug it into the rear
O2 position, set up the transfer curve for 0-1V on the LM-1 and
program the same scale into a custom PID in HPTuners. You can
also use A/C pressure or EGR ports at 0-5V if you have those
connectors handy or tap the wires.