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Old 06-22-2008, 02:34 PM
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Default p1153 code?

Hey guys, did a search but it didnt really answer my questions.

First off i have a 1999 trans am with 120+ miles. Car has longtubes, ory and hooker catback, cam and a tune. Never had any codes until now, i had to redo my y pipe, because of a horrible design+ install at the last muffler shop.

brand new 3" Y with a merge collector, installed on friday, it threw a code just now. Old exhaust setup was on car for a year, no codes. Car has no rear 02's just front ones. Can i drive it like this or is it bad for the car? Will this cause it to run lean? Will getting new 02 sensors for the front make it go away or should i just have the codes deleted?

Thank you for your time.
Old 06-23-2008, 02:35 PM
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had mine tuned out. it seemed like mine ran like **** when it had thrown this code and the 1133 code. i did a search and some guys were saying it goes into an open loop and runs really rich. they described it just like mine, popping, etc. so i just tuned it out. it's a bank switching code and may be cause ur running cooler egt's now.
Old 06-24-2008, 11:31 AM
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YES, turn the 1133 and 1153 codes OFF, these will only cause you problems... and even replacing the 02's they come back and back and back.... if you have or are going to buy headers, just turn these codes off.


you know it almost seems like we go in a cycle here at ls1tech, we go from these codes, to fuel questions out the wazzo, then to TB questions...etc

I know why we haven't arranged a page where all these basic questions are answered, well at least there are several threads/stickies that do answer some of them, but the reason being is people can't come to a conclusion on what do say as it may be wrong for the particular case.

well here is the solution for ALL p1133 and p1153 codes.... TURN THEM OFF and be HAPPY
Old 06-24-2008, 04:07 PM
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lol thanks guys, appreciate the answers..i called my tuner and he said he would tune them out. Also, readings from the o2 sensor stop when you are going WOT..correct?

but another question.

When you perform an aftermarket tune on a cammed car, will it be an open loop tune all the time? My car has a tune done right after my cam swap, so should i really worry about the silly code?
I think i should get a retune anyways, my cars idle is a little sloppier than usual..and im high idling like a motherfather..hope the tune takes care of this.
Old 06-24-2008, 08:29 PM
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not stop...they should rail out or flatline.

an aftermarket tune , can be decided by you or the tuner whether you will be open loop or not. there is no reason why you should be open loop. closed loop is so much easier and it does everything for you.

why try and do something when it can be done for you without all the hassle and just as good?


get a re-tune
Old 06-24-2008, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rsodeputy61
had mine tuned out. it seemed like mine ran like **** when it had thrown this code and the 1133 code. i did a search and some guys were saying it goes into an open loop and runs really rich. they described it just like mine, popping, etc. so i just tuned it out. it's a bank switching code and may be cause ur running cooler egt's now.
Do you mean turn the codes off or tune them out? Did it fix yout problems you had?
Old 06-24-2008, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rsodeputy61
had mine tuned out. it seemed like mine ran like **** when it had thrown this code and the 1133 code. i did a search and some guys were saying it goes into an open loop and runs really rich. they described it just like mine, popping, etc. so i just tuned it out. it's a bank switching code and may be cause ur running cooler egt's now.
so far so good....
Old 06-25-2008, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1n00b
Do you mean turn the codes off or tune them out? Did it fix yout problems you had?
Turn the codes off.
it fixed everything and my car still runs fine and strong, been running strong with the codes turned off for 4 years and i've been forced induction for 1.5yrs
Old 06-25-2008, 12:00 PM
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You need good, working front O2's. The back ones can go to hell. Find out which ones are bad. If it's the back one/ones, you're fine. However, if it's either of the front ones, replace. Autozone, etc., will scan for free.
Old 06-25-2008, 06:51 PM
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ok, so i went to the tuner today, he tuned the code out and retuned my car.

The car was driving perfectly, no more of that annoying high idling that it always used to. it was clutch in, rpms dropped immediatly to 900 ish rpms and stayed there.

But after about 30 minutes of driving, the check engine light came back on and the car started idling funny, push the clutch in while coasting, bam 1600 rpms..kinda sucks with full exhaust and people looking at my car like wtf.

went back cleared the codes, car ran kinda good, but it came back on about one hour ago.

My question is how can the car drive with the tune so nice and the second the code gets thrown it acts up? is it going from closed loop tune to open loop?
Old 06-25-2008, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharpe
You need good, working front O2's. The back ones can go to hell. Find out which ones are bad. If it's the back one/ones, you're fine. However, if it's either of the front ones, replace. Autozone, etc., will scan for free.

for one, a 1153 or 1133 code DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE 02 is bad
Old 06-25-2008, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1n00b
ok, so i went to the tuner today, he tuned the code out and retuned my car.

The car was driving perfectly, no more of that annoying high idling that it always used to. it was clutch in, rpms dropped immediatly to 900 ish rpms and stayed there.

But after about 30 minutes of driving, the check engine light came back on and the car started idling funny, push the clutch in while coasting, bam 1600 rpms..kinda sucks with full exhaust and people looking at my car like wtf.

went back cleared the codes, car ran kinda good, but it came back on about one hour ago.

My question is how can the car drive with the tune so nice and the second the code gets thrown it acts up? is it going from closed loop tune to open loop?
yes, it goes from closed loop to open loop. I thought you just said your tuner turned them off?

what the hell happend man? did the tuner cut the codes off?

on a serious note, go BACK to the tuner, get all 1153 and 1133 codes turned off BOTH on the MIL status (if they are there), and on the DTC status.

if you are still getting the codes, then either the tuner sucks or you are now getting a different code
Old 06-27-2008, 04:47 PM
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I checked out the codes yesterday, seems i also got the 1153, 1133 and p0153 code..they all came back on after we cleared them.

So i just went and got the bosch 13111 rears and got rid of the stock o2s with the extensions and cleared off the codes once more, and i haven't gotten any lights..YET.

Im hoping for the best though, maybe i really had faulty o2's, i mean the car has alot of miles..
Anyways going to another tuner to fine tune driveability now, car still idles a little funny, especially while rolling, but not as bad as it was before all of this happened.
Thanks for helping
Old 07-19-2008, 09:05 PM
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HA! Just got a p0133 code threwn today after about maybe 3 weeks of working nice. What the hell? Happened while driving slow and cruising..should be worried?

Funny thing it was only one code, car doesnt feel any different. I will take the faulty sensor back to oreilys and get a new one to see if that helps.
Old 07-19-2008, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1n00b
HA! Just got a p0133 code threwn today after about maybe 3 weeks of working nice. What the hell? Happened while driving slow and cruising..should be worried?

Funny thing it was only one code, car doesnt feel any different. I will take the faulty sensor back to oreilys and get a new one to see if that helps.
Man one thing .... Its heat related you can try wrapping half of your headers or movin the o2 bung closer to the collector. I moved the o2 bung closer to my collector on my hooker super comps and problem went away . Wrappin them half way up the primarys will fix it for good allso.
Old 07-20-2008, 12:08 PM
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i was on my way just now to go to oreilys to get a new o2 sensor and some header wrap, guess what happened?

The ses light turned itself off. shut the car down a few times, drove around real slow, has not come back on yet. i will wait until next time if it happens and then ill try wrapping my headers. the o2 are brand new so it shouldnt be faulty sensors..

btw before i had the light come on, i raced a c5 z06 with a LOUD exhaust and barely got beat by him moving out on me on the jump, i was one car away and inching when we shut down both times, but last night i barely put a car on a 02 z28 with only full exhaust,tune, lid and 2.73 gears..

my car is m6 3.42 gear, full exhaust fast90/90 224 cam tune ud pulley lid
possibly o2 sensor bogging the car down, or all in my head?
Old 07-20-2008, 09:22 PM
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Only way to tell is to log it and see. The computer problay lean it out to keep the temps up on the o2s IcBR!
Old 07-21-2008, 11:01 AM
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oh well, tuner shop is swamped until next week

would i benefit from getting a SD tune? Do you bypass the use of o2 sensors?
Still cant get my wimpy 222/224 cam to idle properly, will sd be a choice for me?
Old 05-30-2021, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ZL1Killa
YES, turn the 1133 and 1153 codes OFF, these will only cause you problems... and even replacing the 02's they come back and back and back.... if you have or are going to buy headers, just turn these codes off.


you know it almost seems like we go in a cycle here at ls1tech, we go from these codes, to fuel questions out the wazzo, then to TB questions...etc

I know why we haven't arranged a page where all these basic questions are answered, well at least there are several threads/stickies that do answer some of them, but the reason being is people can't come to a conclusion on what do say as it may be wrong for the particular case.

well here is the solution for ALL p1133 and p1153 codes.... TURN THEM OFF and be HAPPY
What's the best way to go about tuning the codes out? Is there somewhere I should take it or something specific I need to buy in order to tune it out?
Old 05-30-2021, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Hellbird02
What's the best way to go about tuning the codes out? Is there somewhere I should take it or something specific I need to buy in order to tune it out?
You might have lucked out. Normally when you reply to a 13-year old thread, the respondee is long gone, but this one is still around here. So he might respond....


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