p1153 code?
First off i have a 1999 trans am with 120+ miles. Car has longtubes, ory and hooker catback, cam and a tune. Never had any codes until now, i had to redo my y pipe, because of a horrible design+ install at the last muffler shop.
brand new 3" Y with a merge collector, installed on friday, it threw a code just now. Old exhaust setup was on car for a year, no codes. Car has no rear 02's just front ones. Can i drive it like this or is it bad for the car? Will this cause it to run lean? Will getting new 02 sensors for the front make it go away or should i just have the codes deleted?
Thank you for your time.
you know it almost seems like we go in a cycle here at ls1tech, we go from these codes, to fuel questions out the wazzo, then to TB questions...etc
I know why we haven't arranged a page where all these basic questions are answered, well at least there are several threads/stickies that do answer some of them, but the reason being is people can't come to a conclusion on what do say as it may be wrong for the particular case.
well here is the solution for ALL p1133 and p1153 codes.... TURN THEM OFF and be HAPPY
but another question.
When you perform an aftermarket tune on a cammed car, will it be an open loop tune all the time? My car has a tune done right after my cam swap, so should i really worry about the silly code?
I think i should get a retune anyways, my cars idle is a little sloppier than usual..and im high idling like a motherfather..hope the tune takes care of this.
an aftermarket tune , can be decided by you or the tuner whether you will be open loop or not. there is no reason why you should be open loop. closed loop is so much easier and it does everything for you.
why try and do something when it can be done for you without all the hassle and just as good?
get a re-tune
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The car was driving perfectly, no more of that annoying high idling that it always used to. it was clutch in, rpms dropped immediatly to 900 ish rpms and stayed there.
But after about 30 minutes of driving, the check engine light came back on and the car started idling funny, push the clutch in while coasting, bam 1600 rpms..kinda sucks with full exhaust and people looking at my car like wtf.
went back cleared the codes, car ran kinda good, but it came back on about one hour ago.
My question is how can the car drive with the tune so nice and the second the code gets thrown it acts up? is it going from closed loop tune to open loop?
for one, a 1153 or 1133 code DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE 02 is bad
The car was driving perfectly, no more of that annoying high idling that it always used to. it was clutch in, rpms dropped immediatly to 900 ish rpms and stayed there.
But after about 30 minutes of driving, the check engine light came back on and the car started idling funny, push the clutch in while coasting, bam 1600 rpms..kinda sucks with full exhaust and people looking at my car like wtf.
went back cleared the codes, car ran kinda good, but it came back on about one hour ago.
My question is how can the car drive with the tune so nice and the second the code gets thrown it acts up? is it going from closed loop tune to open loop?
what the hell happend man? did the tuner cut the codes off?
on a serious note, go BACK to the tuner, get all 1153 and 1133 codes turned off BOTH on the MIL status (if they are there), and on the DTC status.
if you are still getting the codes, then either the tuner sucks or you are now getting a different code
So i just went and got the bosch 13111 rears and got rid of the stock o2s with the extensions and cleared off the codes once more, and i haven't gotten any lights..YET.
Im hoping for the best though, maybe i really had faulty o2's, i mean the car has alot of miles..
Anyways going to another tuner to fine tune driveability now, car still idles a little funny, especially while rolling, but not as bad as it was before all of this happened.
Thanks for helping
Funny thing it was only one code, car doesnt feel any different. I will take the faulty sensor back to oreilys and get a new one to see if that helps.
Funny thing it was only one code, car doesnt feel any different. I will take the faulty sensor back to oreilys and get a new one to see if that helps.
The ses light turned itself off. shut the car down a few times, drove around real slow, has not come back on yet. i will wait until next time if it happens and then ill try wrapping my headers. the o2 are brand new so it shouldnt be faulty sensors..
btw before i had the light come on, i raced a c5 z06 with a LOUD exhaust and barely got beat by him moving out on me on the jump, i was one car away and inching when we shut down both times, but last night i barely put a car on a 02 z28 with only full exhaust,tune, lid and 2.73 gears..
my car is m6 3.42 gear, full exhaust fast90/90 224 cam tune ud pulley lid
possibly o2 sensor bogging the car down, or all in my head?
would i benefit from getting a SD tune? Do you bypass the use of o2 sensors?
Still cant get my wimpy 222/224 cam to idle properly, will sd be a choice for me?
you know it almost seems like we go in a cycle here at ls1tech, we go from these codes, to fuel questions out the wazzo, then to TB questions...etc
I know why we haven't arranged a page where all these basic questions are answered, well at least there are several threads/stickies that do answer some of them, but the reason being is people can't come to a conclusion on what do say as it may be wrong for the particular case.
well here is the solution for ALL p1133 and p1153 codes.... TURN THEM OFF and be HAPPY






