Smoke_Ford

I <3 Cal

4thGENRETARD

Don't want to sound stupid, but I have the same problem and it's not due to a cam change.
I found that K&amp;N filter oil was accumulating in my TB port and causing that effect. Now I clean it more periodicaly and no more problem. Also I started to soak up the excess oil with absorbant paper towel after re-oiling.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I believe the oil from the K&amp;N gets on the MAF sensor and causes problems. There was someone from GM that did not recomend them on these cars for that reason.

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

Yep, that is caused by over oiling your K&amp;N air filter. It gets on your MAF thermistors (the three little gizmos attached to your MAF wires) and causes the MAF to improperly report airflow.

You need to get some sort of spray electriclean and clean off your thermistors.

highgear

I vote for drilling a smaller second hole. We used to do that all the time in Carb throttle plates. If you go back to stock, you can fill the smaller hole with Steel Putty, JB weld, etc.

Jorday

Thanks for posting this piece of information. I tried this last night and it really help it seems like. The PCM is still getting used to it, but drivability has improved. As I mentioned earlier I am getting increased surge when coasting from the increased timing, so I am going to reduce the timing some.

Here's my next question for you. What can I do to get the car to start and stay running without me holding the gas pedal in a bit and helping it start idling?

Thanks,
Jordan

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Multiply the main ve values for your idle range by 90%, and this seems to do the trick for the idle start up problem. You can try decreasing more if 10% doesn't cut it.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Scaling down the VE will help some, especially with startup, but once started what you really need to do is increase the timing-temperature table. You won't have access to this table unless you have the latest version of LS1edit that just came out this week. If you watch on EFIlive you will see that the PCM limits the idle spark advance when the engine is first started until the ECT reaches about 100 degrees, then *bam* the engine gets another 5 degrees and idles great. That's why you have to peddle it for a bit until that happens or the engine goes closed loop. Oh yeah, and increasing the idle speed will help it stay running also; I have mine set to 950 rpm.

Jorday

I have my main VE tables multiplied by .85 for low engine speed. should I try going up to .90 instead? The startup thing seems to always happen, even if the car is warmed up, would adjusting that new ls1 edit thing help still?

Jordan

URPREY

OK, so I have the newest LS1 Edit version (1.3). I'm looking at the Spark vs Coolant Temp table. Which cells need adjustment and how much?

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Sorry man, you're in uncharted waters now! I don't have 1.3 yet so I haven't messed with that yet. But you should be able to do it from trial and error with the help of EFIlive. Log some startups and idling and watch what the timing vs. ECT does between startup and when the idle finally goes smooth, and try to tune out the slow idle out by giving it more timing below 100 deg ECT. I'm thinking the timing jump at 100*F was about 5 degrees.

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

Okay guys, I'm digging up this old thread. I just installed headers on my car and got new plugs. Runs really smooth and I'm really happy with it. The only thing is, the car seems to stumble when I'm pulling in to parking spaces and just generally really low speeds. Is it possible I messed up my front O2s? The front passenger has thrown a slow response code before, and I have a light that's intermittent. I have yet to get it checked.