voltage drops while cranking
voltage drops while cranking it drops to 9volts while cranking.
the car will not start.
i lose connection to one or more modules.(P1626 + U1016)
it just cranks and reeks of fuel.
fuses look good, i have 60PSI of fuel pressure, a new battery,
and VATS and reduced power mode are inactive.(state02/state03)
the PCM can be flashed and logged so i am sure it`s ok. (i have used 2)
could this be the alternator and/or a bad ground?
what grounds are most likely to come undone or break?
this happened before but it started and ran after i recharged the old battery
so i thought my battery was the problem but,
a new battery has not helped this time.
the car will not start.
i lose connection to one or more modules.(P1626 + U1016)
it just cranks and reeks of fuel.
fuses look good, i have 60PSI of fuel pressure, a new battery,
and VATS and reduced power mode are inactive.(state02/state03)
the PCM can be flashed and logged so i am sure it`s ok. (i have used 2)
could this be the alternator and/or a bad ground?
what grounds are most likely to come undone or break?
this happened before but it started and ran after i recharged the old battery
so i thought my battery was the problem but,
a new battery has not helped this time.
I'd just follow the fat cables to where they go, pull,
wire-brush (cable and attach-point face) and retighten.
My + terminal connection was very badly corroded by
two leaking AC-Delco batteries in a row. Once the tin
is gone you're down to crusty copper. With some work
and a high powered iron I was able to solder-tin it and
it's OK. Being as new battery does not help, you have to
look for series resistance or excessive current draw. The
resistance is liable to be easier to chase down.
wire-brush (cable and attach-point face) and retighten.
My + terminal connection was very badly corroded by
two leaking AC-Delco batteries in a row. Once the tin
is gone you're down to crusty copper. With some work
and a high powered iron I was able to solder-tin it and
it's OK. Being as new battery does not help, you have to
look for series resistance or excessive current draw. The
resistance is liable to be easier to chase down.
all grounds that i could reach where good,
the alternator power wire was loose so i tightened it.
and still it just cranks but won`t start.
i got a few more codes.
P1626
P1637
C0239
C0240
U1016
and some voltage measurements i took at the BCM.
Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
C2 PPL/WHT 1074 Ignition Key Resistor Return .12ohms @20k
D5 PNK 39 Ignition Positive Voltage 10.8 volts (the battery was a little low)
D6 YEL 43 Program Input 10.9 volts
D7 WHT/BLK 1073 Ignition Key Resistor Feed 10.2 volts
D8 DK BLU 229 Fuel Enable 2.6 volts
i`m supposed to check for an open or a short.
i still suspect a bad BCM, tho i don`t know how to explain recovering from
this 2 other times before.
i can`t retrieve the PCM calibration details. (ctrl+alt+pg up)
the alternator power wire was loose so i tightened it.
and still it just cranks but won`t start.
i got a few more codes.
P1626
P1637
C0239
C0240
U1016
and some voltage measurements i took at the BCM.
Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
C2 PPL/WHT 1074 Ignition Key Resistor Return .12ohms @20k
D5 PNK 39 Ignition Positive Voltage 10.8 volts (the battery was a little low)
D6 YEL 43 Program Input 10.9 volts
D7 WHT/BLK 1073 Ignition Key Resistor Feed 10.2 volts
D8 DK BLU 229 Fuel Enable 2.6 volts
i`m supposed to check for an open or a short.
i still suspect a bad BCM, tho i don`t know how to explain recovering from
this 2 other times before.
i can`t retrieve the PCM calibration details. (ctrl+alt+pg up)
Last edited by shoemike; Sep 26, 2008 at 01:06 AM.
Put a volt meter from the + to the - on the battery. KOEO, what does it read? Cranking, what does it read? If its not 12.6 KOEO ( thats key on engine off) charge it and retest. If its 12.6 and drops below 10 volts, charge and retest.
Second option is to take it to get tested.
It isnt a red top is it?
Second option is to take it to get tested.
It isnt a red top is it?
Put a volt meter from the + to the - on the battery. KOEO, what does it read? Cranking, what does it read? If its not 12.6 KOEO ( thats key on engine off) charge it and retest. If its 12.6 and drops below 10 volts, charge and retest.
Second option is to take it to get tested.
It isnt a red top is it?
Second option is to take it to get tested.
It isnt a red top is it?
it was (4years old)
my voltage drop could have been just from flogging the battery.
i got a new battery, cranked it a few times then did
a VATS relearn (VATS is inactive) and some voltage measurements,
then cranked it some and it died.
(RUN power was on for at least an hour today)
i got a new one tonight and will measure voltage at the BCM
again in the morning.
i always read 11.8-11.6 volts at the battery with a
voltmeter and through the scan tool. (PCM)
maybe there is a drain, but i have always been able to keep
the radio on (ACC)
and, a few 12volt external sensors (RUN).
i use an inverter to power my laptops while driving as well.
there have been a few times in the past where i was driving and the fuel cut out and,
the car still ran (barely) WBO2 went off the hook and even with
RTACS giving fuel to the VE table it still was lean.
i could recover from this by turning of then restating the car.
aside from an incident of my gauges spiking twice my radio, windows,
alarm, and gauges work fine.
what i have seen most people cant get the car to crank with a crashed BCM.
i even changed the PCM to try to work around the no start issue but
the stock one did help.
i can not retrieve the calibration details (VIN) from either PCM through
the OBDII port, but i can scan and flash the PCM.
i don`t suspect the PCM and, the starter does`nt explain why i keep getting P1626 and can`t read the VIN through OBDII. (does it?)
Last edited by shoemike; Sep 26, 2008 at 01:07 AM.
