Engine running Super Hot!!!!
Engine running Super Hot!!!! Ok, I have a parometer on my #1 cylinder header, the temperature heading after my 6.4 1/8 mile pass is showing 1532 degrees. I know that aluminum melts at 1425, I do have all forged internalls, however its still aluminum. My question is do I need to start running the motor a litter more rich on the fuel side and if so how much, take a look at my HP Tuners tune here and tell me what you think, I have got it at 1.517 all the way through 4800 RPMs but drop it down a tad to 1.473 starting at 5200. Any help or opinions would be appreciated. Any questions about my setup check out my Sig.
Thanks
Thanks
Im not good with hp tuners but a pyro meter in the 1 one bank will it give you a good reading overall for the motor? Also what afr do u run? And i guess you can fatten it up a bit.
FormerVendor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
One thing, I would want to confirm the temp reading. You might want to check with high range IR thermometer and/or consider moving the pyrometer to a different location for a second opinion. 1532 does sound little high. Was this running the juice?
The other thing, just because you are commanding a given AFR doesn't mean that is what you are getting. Have you confirmed your actual AFR? Seems like you should be rich already.
The other thing, just because you are commanding a given AFR doesn't mean that is what you are getting. Have you confirmed your actual AFR? Seems like you should be rich already.
I think yall are right, I do have a Wide band O2 and the sensor reading I am getting NA is 13.01 AFR, when I run the NOS then I get a 11.6 AFR, which is all within parameters. what concerns me is the heat of my motor, and yes it is running 1532 on NOS, but thats in the 1/8 mile, I am concerned about running it in the 1/4 because thats another 2.5 - 3 secs of that Temp. I guess I would need to add more fuel to her and fatten it up a bit, doing that would cool off the motor but then it brings up the problem of running to rich which can cause issues on the juice. Any other opinions. If yall need look at my iniial comment at the top of the page with my HP Tuners Tune and see if you have any suggestions.
Thanks
Jake
Thanks
Jake
Are you sure you have the temperature probe installed in the correct location? It is critical to their accuracy. They are designed to be a certain distance from an exhaust port to give the correct temps. Double check the manufacturers installation instructions, your AFR is no off so I would guess the probe it not installed correctly.
The exhaust gas temp is not the aluminum temp
because the aluminum has cooling water running
through it and conduction beats convection. The
EGT can be a useful indicator but I think you
have to look at it on a relative basis, it's more
about seeing the peak EGT vs fueling than the
absolute number.
because the aluminum has cooling water running
through it and conduction beats convection. The
EGT can be a useful indicator but I think you
have to look at it on a relative basis, it's more
about seeing the peak EGT vs fueling than the
absolute number.
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Verdad Gallardo You know the parometer is installed about 1 1/2 inches from the cylinder head so that could be an issue, After reading the instructions it recommended it to be within 1/4 - 1/2 inch from valve, which pisses me off because now I will have to plug that header hole that I drilled and tap into another cylinder, probobly #2.
The timing is set at 24 degrees and after running a pass I check the plugs and I see the color of a brown paper bag, no white specals or anything that would show signs of pre detonation. As for richining it up a little bit what do yall think, I guess the AFR could be a little lower, maybe around 11 or high 10's
The timing is set at 24 degrees and after running a pass I check the plugs and I see the color of a brown paper bag, no white specals or anything that would show signs of pre detonation. As for richining it up a little bit what do yall think, I guess the AFR could be a little lower, maybe around 11 or high 10's
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Port Huron
i would be checking the injector to make sure it's flowin correctly...........also put the probe in another cylinder to make a comparison. the further the probe is from the cylinder the cooler the temp should be
"The timing is set at 24 degrees and after running a pass I check the plugs and I see the color of a brown paper bag, no white specals or anything that would show signs of pre detonation."
The "brown bag" coloration is not what I would be looking for, when reading a plug.
Here's a good link, to show what really matters:
http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html
I use an "otoscope" to read plugs. That's the tool your dr uses to look in yur ears.. I bought mine off the Bag.. Cheap. I have 1 w/ the led lite source...works for me.
The "brown bag" coloration is not what I would be looking for, when reading a plug.
Here's a good link, to show what really matters:
http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html
I use an "otoscope" to read plugs. That's the tool your dr uses to look in yur ears.. I bought mine off the Bag.. Cheap. I have 1 w/ the led lite source...works for me.
Don't know how what I'm about to say relates to car engines, but on airplane engines an EGT of 1500 isn't necessarily cause for alarm. 1600 would be. For cruise, 1450 would be considered normal. Of course, this all depends how close the sensor is the cylinder. The closer it is, the higher it reads. I would experiment with different AFRs and see how closely the EGT follows.