94T/AMan

This is my first post on here, any help would be appreciated!!!
I think I might have a couple of issues with my T/A, would like some help. Here's some info:
1. My alternator went out while driving and after it hit 8 volts, my car died. I replaced alternator, car worked okay for a few days.
2. I went to start my car, it started and immediately cut out, like the fuel was being cut off, but finally got it started and made it home. It would start sometimes, but it got much worse over the next few days.
3. My security light has been on for months, but never affected it starting. I saw that one of the orange wires had came loose, reconnected it, security light is off, but did the same thing, didn't seem to matter.
4. Now the car won't turn over, the gauges are not working, and when the do, it will click the relays, but won't supply power to starter. I can feel and hear the BCM and the ABS Relay clicking, and sometimes it's let's just enough juice to make a noise at my starter.
5. My key started giving me problems turning in the ignition a few weeks before I started to have any problems, it still sticks, but can get it to turn enough to allow it to work. (I think I need to replace it). I'm not sure if I have a VATS issue, so I figured I'd put the right resistors and bypass the system, didn't make a difference.
So here's my question, did possibly running the car on 8 volts until it died, possibly mess up one or more relays, the Body Control Module (BCM), the computer. The starter kill was removed by the previous owner, most likely when they installed the security system, which was removed before I bought it, but they did leave the wires a mess. I think it's not allowing power to the starter as well as shutting off the fuel, haven't checked for sure, but feel confident it is doing both of these now.
I have a 1994 Formula Firebird that I'm using as a parts car, it had the 5.7. I took out the ignition switch from it, and before I put it in my T/A, I'd like to try and find out where my problems are before adding another variable(s). If I do switch ignitions, the key has a different resistance, should I put the BCM from Formula with it as well? Should I also swap the computer from Formula? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Tim

94T/AMan

I have a TDM, not BCM. I have a service manual for 96 F Platform, and that was the first year they started using the BCM. Well here's where I am, I've replaced the ignition from Firebird, the Security light was on. Is the TDM in the passenger side door panel, couldn't find it on the site you recommended, or in my manuals, or online. I thought the TDM is there, I swapped the one from the firebird. I put the right resistors for the firebird key, 2.35 ohms, security light stayed on, decided to try the resistors that I had made for my original key, 6.04 ohms, and the security light goes out. I finally got it to start once last night, turned it off, won't start again. When the starting problem first arose, the car would cut off right away after it started, like the TDM was cutting off fuel to the injectors. I can hear the fuel pump wine when I turn the key, feel like that is okay. Another issue I had before I swapped anything, the ingition switch when turned to the run position would sometimes make the guages work, the volts would sometimes go to 13, but most of the time it wouldn't move at all. I can hear a click of the relay near the gas pedal and fuse box, but nothing else. Here's another issue that I noticed, the starter will engage when it feels like it, but will get stuck engaged on the flywheel. I just put a new starter on it 2 months ago, so that should be okay. If the TDM is blocking current as well to my starter, could that be why the starter won't retract back? I tested all my relays, and fuses as well. One of the fuses for fuel injection did blow, but was fine when I checked all of them before I did anything? I did also replace a few wires that were exposed, one under the computer, two that went down to the starter, one was a ground, the other to the starter. I also completely replaced the positive and negative battery cables, making sure I have a good ground to the block. I've put the battery on my charger, so that should be fine also, just don't have the tester for cranking amps, but had just recently done that. Before I put the exhaust system back together, so I can pull the starter again, I could maybe use some advice. I didn't want to post until I went through everything that I could do, replacing the computer didn't help either.

RJDio

I'm not an expert by any means, but did you replace the battery too? I've been experiencing some weird stuff and installed a new optima yellow top battery and everything worked great for a couple weeks. however, I barely drive the car and new battery was dead after a 2 minute drive to store last week. It jumped okay, I placed charger on battery and ordered a powerbastard alternator and will install that soon. I'm thinking driving on a battery that isn't being properly charged may have damaged battery - not sure.
The Security light comes on my vehicle when I use my Autopage remote autostart and it cold starts and doesn't turn over first time, after driving or restarting once or twice it goes away on its own. It has never concerned me and I kinda know what is throwing that light on my car.
Regarding key, I've worn keys out over the years and they will not turn over the tumbler or start a car, last one was a Toyota with lots of miles and I almost got stranded. If you have one with some teeth left on it, is a few bucks to cut a new one at a mom and pop locksmith to try. I'm wondering if your problems are a combination of a few things - well obviously it was if wires were loose or relays were shot, but maybe something simple like new key or new battery will cure a lot of it.