Since you are going to have cats still I'm willing to bet that you have 0 rasp.

 

That's what I thought as well. I guess there's only one way to find out, right?

Any power losses from straight through to catted?

I assume a little bit, but minimal.

 

So I will be getting the loan and car on Saturday provided everything goes as planned. I would like to get a new shift **** almost right away and would like to go with a shorter stalk.

I'm looking into the Hurst 6" stalk (looks curved) and the white cue ball ****. Will there be any issues with getting this if the car currently has a short throw installed?

I've searched around a bit but I'm still slightly confused.

 

I couldn't run a short stick on my Pro 5.0.

But for what it's worth, if you're going to be purchasing nearly a picture-perfect, untouched Trans Am, why would you skip out on cheaper parts? If you buy headers, get the best stainless 1 7/8" you can buy. All others are going to rust eventually.

And for exhaust, go with Kooks True Duals, 3". You'll get the best flow and the best sound. I paid for custom 3" true duals, over the axle, and it cost me almost the same price as Kooks'. I would have got Kooks TD's, but I already had TSP 1 7/8" headers.

That's my .02.

 

Why can't you run one on your Pro 5.0?

Also, have there been issues with TSP Stainless headers rusting? From what I've read 1 7/8 is barely even an upgrade for the price. Like 1-2 HP up top and that's comparing cheap-o Pacesetters to TSP's.

I've considered going with the Kooks exhaust, but then I will also have to do the relocation and I'm not fully sure if I want to start touching suspension or keep that as close to stock as possible.

 

Reply is above

 

Thanks for the reply!

I will definitely look further into the short stick.

I'm not looking to make a TON of power with the car, I want to turn it into a weekend/show car, so if I go with SLP LMII's over Kooks, it's not really going to bother me in terms of power. The sound on the Kooks is crazy, sounds great, but I kind of want to get this car where I want it and look for a true build car.

I will probably look into TSP headers further then. I'll do more research on 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8 and make a decision. Like I said, not really a big HP chase here, so I'm going for well priced and functional. $200 isn't really a big deal in the grand scheme of things, so I probably will end up going with 1 7/8, catted, with SLP LMII and Corsa Clones from 1LE.

I just want to get it sounding nice, looking good and fun to drive. Doesn't need to be a 450whp H/C/I build with full bolt-ons, that'll be the next car

I have dreams of swapping an LS into an Iroc, but I've also been looking at the possibility of other vehicles. Again, that's pretty far down the line haha

Thank you for your input!

 

No problem. I understand what you're wanting! Whatever you do, have fun with it and do the work yourself!

 

Thanks and I plan on it! I have a buddy with a WS6 Vert on here (streetlegal) and he will be more than likely helping me with some of the stuff as he's done most of it before. It's just a weekend car, so if he can't help me I'll probably just tear down on my own, but he has a lift so that makes it slightly easier

Here is what I would be looking at getting from Texas Speed (again going to wait until around Black Friday to order):

 

Brought her home on Saturday, put about 100 miles on her thus far



Love the car, she's mint, I found two rock chips, which is going to happen either way.

I am curious, I do get the clutch stuck to the floor often when I am using the brake as well... When I'm backing down the driveway or similar. The owner before me already ordered me a new master cylinder in hopes that this is the issue. Any thoughts on this?

I took some good photos last night, just have to get them uploaded when I get home from work.

Other than that, I love the car, it's nice and fast, beautiful interior and everything. I think I'll keep it mostly stock now that I have it. Mods that I want to do consist of Wheelskins steering wheel cover to keep the wheel nice, rubber floor mats to preserve the stocks, new shift **** possibly and some Corsa or Corsa Clone 4" quad tips to liven up the rear end a bit.

Other than that, I think the car's perfect. Any other suggestions for modifications? Considering a clear bra as well, but I hear those get pretty expensive.

 

Looks great man, congrats! Sounds like it's probably the master cylinder. The tick master is a good upgrade, hopefully the old owner went that route.

 

Oh and I'd definitely look into a skip shift eliminator. Cheap and easy to do and def worth it.

 

He actually just ordered a GM original, but we'll probably drill it out and be done with it. It happens when I'm on the brakes, which is somewhat concerning for me, but I still think it's just the master and it works 90% of the time.

Also, I believe the 2nd own put in the skip shift eliminator, still lights up but lets me take whatever gear I want, so that's nice

 

Very nice ride! Keep her clean.

 

Beautiful car.
Suggestions from me:
Tick master cylinder (like already stated)
MGW shifter (forget the short stick, I had one and it was good for the money, but doesn't compare to this shifter)
Koni SA shocks (easily the best mod Ive ever done to the car, amazing handling and ride quality improvement, like driving a totally different car. Car is extremely solid and planted, unreal difference).
Then from there it depends on what you want out of the car, the mods above improve the way the car drives all around, no matter what you want to do with it.

 

Thanks! I definitely plan on it!

I am getting a 01-02 master, which I hear is upgraded and I may drill it out. As for now I think there's air in the system, but I don't plan on modding so the current master should be okay hopefully. If not it's an easy swap.

As for modifications, I really doubt I'll change a whole lot. I really like the car as is and wouldn't mind preserving the present condition.

I'll start a new thread tonight with some additional photos that I have taken and start a progress thread on the car!

 

Does anyone know if there is a true difference between the 98-00 master cylinder and the 01-02 and does anyone know the 01-02 part number for OEM replacement?