ls1fbod

My car did this, You either spun a rod bearing or u bent a lifter...Caused by revin over redline to many times...

ls1powrdta

I Would Also Say Its Piston Slap.i Have A 2000 Ta And It Does The Same Thing.its Been Said To Be The Connecting Rods That Causes It.the Ls2 Engine Has A Floating Pin Design That Is Supposed To Help Get Rid Of That Racket.

BigBadWolf

Yep... my 99 Formula does it when I first start it in the cold. Quiets down (not completely) when it warms up. I went from a Lexus SC400 (smoothest quietest V8 you will EVER hear) to this and have come to realize the sound goes with the territory.

Face it... American muscle has never been without it's quirks.

billybob

with mine, i start up and it taps on idle. i normaly wait till the engine comes up to tempreture(200 - 210) and it still does it a little, but then when i get on the road and drive, it goes away completely, even at idle. the thing i do not understand is, it only does it when i first start up and it will only go away once i start driving, but at idle before driving it does it even when the temp comes up. is the engine not completely warm until you actually start driving even though the gage says so or what? also another question not related to this thread but thought i would just throw it in. i am taking my t/a into the dealer monday for a leaking rear seal, will they fix this no questions asked(my t/a still has warranty left) or are they going to give me crap(my cars bone stock)?

thanks

Formula-T/A

Mine and my friends col edt T/A did the same thing untill I junked the EGR and A.I.R. Hasnt done it since.

billybob

this may sound stupid, but when you say junked do you mean you just removed these things. how hard is this to do?

thanks

95fbody

Im pretty sure the LS1s thick becuase of the injectors firing that is what i have heard my ram air does it.I bought it brand new i keep it in top shape I only get on it every once in a while. But that is what i heard.

Formula-T/A

I put headers on mine and bought the block off plates,Im pretty sure you can do it with out a header swap, just have to get it tuned.

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

the way you can determine if its in the valvetrain (lifters, pushrods, rockers, valve springs, valves, cam.) is if the noise is half the engine rpm. if its the same speed as engine rpm its the in block most likely piston slap.

if you want to pull to oil pump you got to pull off the front engine cover as if doing a cam swap and its on the crank you may have to lower the oil pan to get the bolt that holds the pick up tube in place out and then remove the bolts that hold the oil pump to the block. but as it is under warranty I say do not mess with it I work at a dealership and hate having to dig through what someone else messed with to find out what they might have fucked up if there is a problem in that area that could have been caused by them messing with it.

slowta99

I work for GM as a warranty claims adjuster, I see about 110 failures a day, Piston slap is very common, An engine de-carb might be helpful, sometimes this ticking is a result of carbon knock