Those dreaded door panel cracks . . . fixed!
#1
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I'm sure you guys have experienced the door panel cracks we get on these cars - they typically start at the top of the door panel, toward the rear and extend downward. In my experience, they do not go into remission. They can be stable for a while, then get worse. Here’s how I repaired my cracks at home.
When I got the panels off, it was pretty obvious what the problem was. The inner glass-run weatherstrip is stapled (heavy-duty staples) to the door panel at the top. Since this strip is steel-backed and rigid, it does not “give” as the door panel shrinks with age, so the panel cracks. My cracks were pretty bad, as you can see (Photo 1). But when I pulled out the three end staples (Photo 2), the panel crack came back together very naturally. As a first step to repair, I used some Super Glue in the crack and wrapped Bungee cords around the door panel to hold it together for several hours. With the crack held together temporarily, I was able to use some epoxy on the backside of the door panel (Photo 3). I used the epoxy that’s designed for plastics. I also roughed up the surface with 400-grit sandpaper before applying the epoxy. The repair seemed pretty solid. Then, to replace the staples, I used Pop Rivets (Photo 4). I didn't want to use screws, since the heads would stick up higher and might come in contact with the window (you could probably put in new staples, if you had a powerful enough stapling machine - the staples ned to go through steel). This should hold the repair solidly together. As you can see in Photo 5, the repair is not perfect, but much better. And I seriously doubt the crack will be back anytime soon.
When I got the panels off, it was pretty obvious what the problem was. The inner glass-run weatherstrip is stapled (heavy-duty staples) to the door panel at the top. Since this strip is steel-backed and rigid, it does not “give” as the door panel shrinks with age, so the panel cracks. My cracks were pretty bad, as you can see (Photo 1). But when I pulled out the three end staples (Photo 2), the panel crack came back together very naturally. As a first step to repair, I used some Super Glue in the crack and wrapped Bungee cords around the door panel to hold it together for several hours. With the crack held together temporarily, I was able to use some epoxy on the backside of the door panel (Photo 3). I used the epoxy that’s designed for plastics. I also roughed up the surface with 400-grit sandpaper before applying the epoxy. The repair seemed pretty solid. Then, to replace the staples, I used Pop Rivets (Photo 4). I didn't want to use screws, since the heads would stick up higher and might come in contact with the window (you could probably put in new staples, if you had a powerful enough stapling machine - the staples ned to go through steel). This should hold the repair solidly together. As you can see in Photo 5, the repair is not perfect, but much better. And I seriously doubt the crack will be back anytime soon.
#2
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I thought about doing something similar but tried the dealer since I was still under 36K. They replace both door panels under warranty. No more warranty now so I may be doing something similar when these new ones crack.
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wow this is funny, mine just cracked last month when i closed the door i heard a loud pop sound. I looked at the glass first thininking it broke and come to find the pannel split in two right in the back. Thanx for the pics and the crack does look much better in your last pic and i will give it a try. if it comes out as nice as your i will leave it cause you know if i do find a new one, how long before that one cracks...
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Wow this is an old thread, but I'm glad I ran into it. I got cracks on both of my panels, and they are pretty big and easy to spot. And that doesn't include the crack that runs from my passenger air bag to my windshield on the dash.
-Joel
-Joel
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yeah, i did mine years ago (before they started to do anything), but my buddy wanted to do his up (already cracked about 2 inches on both sides) So i was looking to see what kinds of epoxy he could use when i found this one. I had used tiny screws from Ace hardware on mine, and although i did have to cut off the screw a bit (kinda like you zip off the screws in your TB blade) to make them fit down there, they worked just fine.
Wow, I pissed this guy (PontiacFan) enough that he sent me a PM over it…. Lol...
“Excuse me?
You're the one who replied to a 4-year old thread!
If you are offended or embarrased, then so be it.
No reason to start callin' people names over it.
Lighten up, ...”
Trust me PontiacFan, im about as light as they come. Sorry i peed in your cherrios about you givin ME crap about updateing an old thread with useful info. I didnt mean to hurt anyones feelings, i was just bustin your chops, as you were mine.
Wow, I pissed this guy (PontiacFan) enough that he sent me a PM over it…. Lol...
“Excuse me?
You're the one who replied to a 4-year old thread!
If you are offended or embarrased, then so be it.
No reason to start callin' people names over it.
Lighten up, ...”
Trust me PontiacFan, im about as light as they come. Sorry i peed in your cherrios about you givin ME crap about updateing an old thread with useful info. I didnt mean to hurt anyones feelings, i was just bustin your chops, as you were mine.
Last edited by Bad Blue WS6; 05-06-2009 at 11:39 AM.
#16
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Sweet, ..., Now I'm quoted & noted in a thread!
So, because you weren't bright enough to see the thread date, & a couple people reply with comments to make you look bad, ..., you retaliate with "losers" & post my PM in the thread?!?
Makes you look real smart there 'jim-bob', ...,![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
You did update an old thread with useful info, "screws work fine, just get the ones that have a flat head on them".
Du-oh! Nice input, ...,
So, because you weren't bright enough to see the thread date, & a couple people reply with comments to make you look bad, ..., you retaliate with "losers" & post my PM in the thread?!?
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
Makes you look real smart there 'jim-bob', ...,
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
You did update an old thread with useful info, "screws work fine, just get the ones that have a flat head on them".
Du-oh! Nice input, ...,
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whats the difference between using round head vs flat head screws?
Anyone want to guess with me if the dealer will fix it?
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So, because you weren't bright enough to see the thread date
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
#20
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theres not much clearance in there, and the top of the panel kinda slips over the metal part on the top of the door, if you have round headed screws, they just stick out a lil far, and catch on the window or the metal, depending on which way you set the screw in there.
GL there for ya. Its not a hard fix though, the panels are very easy to remove,,, sux that it happens (kinda like the bubbleing sail panel
) but its there.
I did see the date, and I almost feel bad that you have such a problem with it.![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
GL there for ya. Its not a hard fix though, the panels are very easy to remove,,, sux that it happens (kinda like the bubbleing sail panel
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
I did see the date, and I almost feel bad that you have such a problem with it.
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)