2002 Regular Trans Am or WS6 Need Advice
10-01-2006, 07:24 PM
#1
2002 Regular Trans Am or WS6 Need Advice Thinking of buying a 2002 Trans Am, (my budget will fit) or get a high mileage WS6.Is there a big diffrence between both? Will I still run mid 13's with a regular 2002 Trans Am? Or sould I get a high Mileage WS6. I know the regular trans am have 16in wheels compared to the 17 inch on WS6.Is that a big diffrence? Thanks
10-01-2006, 07:38 PM
#2
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The base trans am's are actually fractinally quicker than the ws6's because thier a couple pounds lighter. Unless your dead set on owning a genuine ws6 (like I was) buy the regular T/A and put a hood on it. Just my 2 cents.
10-01-2006, 08:00 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Mikerace15
The base trans am's are actually fractinally quicker than the ws6's because thier a couple pounds lighter. Unless your dead set on owning a genuine ws6 (like I was) buy the regular T/A and put a hood on it. Just my 2 cents.
LS1 cars are similar in ET & speeds when box stock out off the dealer floor. There's no facts shown to say base T/A's are any quicker. Any day, any driver, ..., they can go back & forth all day.
Maybe you are referring to the famous old 'wive's tale' that the Formula's are quicker because they are lighter?
I do agree on the WS6/regular T/A comment on purchasing tho. If you're a purist & want the WS6, then find one. If it really doesn't matter & you're going to mod the hell out of it anyway, ..., go the base route & add all your own goodies.
10-01-2006, 09:49 PM
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when I said the base t/a's are quicker, I ment maybe a .01 of a second quicker with the same driver, due to its marginally lighter weight, nothing signifigant. Both "should" have equal power from the factory and the base t/a is lighter compared to the ws6 wich from what I understand is the heaviest 4th gen f body you can buy.
10-02-2006, 04:30 PM
#6
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Why would the base car be lighter in weight than a WS6 ?
WS6 hoods are Fiberglass and weigh approx 12lbs less than the Steel flat hood,
And the 17" wheels are about 2 lbs heavier each.
so basically there isn't any significant difference that would warrant better times for either.
It's All in the Driver.
WS6 hoods are Fiberglass and weigh approx 12lbs less than the Steel flat hood,
And the 17" wheels are about 2 lbs heavier each.
so basically there isn't any significant difference that would warrant better times for either.
It's All in the Driver.
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10-02-2006, 07:20 PM
#8
Basically they are the same car, with the exception of the hood and wheels/tires, it's really more of a question of what you want, and can afford, and can find
If you want the sticker with the RPO code then get the WS6, if you're going to mod it get the regular T/A, they're usually cheaper than the WS6
If you want the sticker with the RPO code then get the WS6, if you're going to mod it get the regular T/A, they're usually cheaper than the WS6
10-02-2006, 11:23 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by LS1W66
Why would the base car be lighter in weight than a WS6 ?
WS6 hoods are Fiberglass and weigh approx 12lbs less than the Steel flat hood,
And the 17" wheels are about 2 lbs heavier each.
so basically there isn't any significant difference that would warrant better times for either.
It's All in the Driver.
WS6 hoods are Fiberglass and weigh approx 12lbs less than the Steel flat hood,
And the 17" wheels are about 2 lbs heavier each.
so basically there isn't any significant difference that would warrant better times for either.
It's All in the Driver.
10-03-2006, 09:17 AM
#14
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They are both the same when it comes to how fast they are. Except I heard alot of people claim on LS1tech that the base T/A is slightly quicker than the WS6 because of the 16in wheels vs. the 17in wheels, not because the weight, but because of the tire size. I personally would get the WS6 because they look nicer and it saves you the trouble of getting a ram air hood in the future because it already has one. Plus its an OEM hood, and if you were to buy the reg. T/A and wanted an OEM hood, that would cost you about $1,300. Now, are they A4's or M6's or one and one? That's what should really hook your decision.
10-03-2006, 10:48 AM
#15
I would consider the following:
1- what do you want out of the car? Stock driver, something to modify? What are your plans with it? daily driver, drag race, autocross, etc..
If you want to leave it alone and have a nice driver, then I'd opt for the WS-6 as it's a little sportier with the upgraded suspension, larger wheels and "Ram Air" hood.
If you're going to upgrade all your parts with aftermarket pieces then get a base model and save some upfront cost. Why pay more for a WS-6 car if you're going to replace everything anyway..
2- get a clean example. I'd pay more for a straight car with no rust/ damage, etc..
I'd rather get a clean base model than a rough WS-6 version. there's plenty of wrecked ones out there already that you can upgrade the parts to if all you want is WS-6 level performance. It's easier to swap rims and shocks than it is to have rust repair, frame alignment, etc...
Just my 2 cents. I hope its helpful.
1- what do you want out of the car? Stock driver, something to modify? What are your plans with it? daily driver, drag race, autocross, etc..
If you want to leave it alone and have a nice driver, then I'd opt for the WS-6 as it's a little sportier with the upgraded suspension, larger wheels and "Ram Air" hood.
If you're going to upgrade all your parts with aftermarket pieces then get a base model and save some upfront cost. Why pay more for a WS-6 car if you're going to replace everything anyway..
2- get a clean example. I'd pay more for a straight car with no rust/ damage, etc..
I'd rather get a clean base model than a rough WS-6 version. there's plenty of wrecked ones out there already that you can upgrade the parts to if all you want is WS-6 level performance. It's easier to swap rims and shocks than it is to have rust repair, frame alignment, etc...
Just my 2 cents. I hope its helpful.
