FARRK007

What is the baseline torque on an 04 gto? and how can i bump up the hp #'s on the 04 ls1 to match the ls2?

what is an "a4" or "m6"

what are the maladies known to plague these cars?

I'm asking all these questions 'cos im sick of getting my *** kicked on the road and i want to get a goat. thing is all i can afford "for now" is the early models with the 5.7 motor but i still desire to be in that 400hp range.

i have always wanted to know what the torque numbers are on the early models and i wiki'ed but its not there.

Thanks in advance for all feedback.

and please welcome me to the pack.......i cant wait to begin to ripp A_$!! on the roads

Hell'sChariot

iTrader: (24)

350hp 375tq on all LS1 engines. Regardless of what the marketing department says...

A4=auto M6=manual

Six speeds cant touch a stalled auto!

Basic boltons, followed by cam and stall.

Do work!

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

just remember that there is a difference between motor(crank) hp and rear wheel horsepower. 400 hp to the wheels on an ls1 gto would cost a little money, headers, exhaust, intake, intake manifold and prolly a small cam to get to the 400 mark at the wheels. unless you wanna go the quick and inexpensive route of nitrous.

FARRK007

i appreciate all the info, now i have one more question....cant an m6 5.7 with mods keep up with an ls2?

Bring the Noise

A good combo'd Heads, Cam & tuned 5.7L LS1 will easily beat a bone stock 6.0L LS2.

Headers, Exhaust, Cold Air Intake, Under Drive Pulley, and Tuned 5.7L LS1 will match or beat a Stock 6.0L LS2

Note: Stock the LS2's have torque management programed into the tune that limits torque on the drive line.

Now a couple of things to look at when you go to purchase a 04 GTO with a LS1.
1. Is it an early year release (pre CV joint and half shaft upgrade). Some of the later 04's come with the 05/06 half shafts which are stronger.

2. How much wear and tear was put on the car. This can determine how much your are going to spend on replacement parts within a certain time period (like motor and trans if they are not properly maintained along with abused).

3. Is the car stock, does it already have some aftermarket parts installed? This can cut your costs on upgrades in the future if it is a good combination of parts.

Stock for stock the 05/06 are better not just because of the motor.
There were improvements to the exhaust system (dual 2 1/2" with very few bends or crimp in the exhaust line -vs- the 04's dual 2" system).
There is also the half shafts that are beefier (the 05/06 half shafts have been good at over 450rwhp for a lot of folks, but the CV joints start to fail at that point).

You will also want to check the struts, and bushings as they have a tendency to go out on the GTO's (all 3 years its like a crap shoot sometimes).

Hopefully you can find a good car to start from and I hope you enjoy it.

massillongoat

iTrader: (3)

auto vs auto 04 wins all day trust me I did it I ran 13.62 stock...most stock ls2 cars run 14.0s...headers intake extaust and a street tune...I run 13.41s so far....a buddy of miine has an 05 cold air and a serious dyno tune and he ran a 13.48 the other day...he usually runs 13.3s....

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

We were running alot faster than that when our '06 LS2 was bone stock even with the crappy torque management. Most people can't drive these things I think and they are tough to launch stock. Were looking for a late 12 next time out with only mods being intake, tune, and tires out back.

breze84

350hp 365tq is rated at crank for both the A4 and M6 for 04... But, No car is the same at the wheels and the A4's usually dyno 20 RWHP less than the M6... Bone stock with a CAI I put down 321 RWHP @ 335 RWTQ in my M6, With my current mods which are Pacesetter LT's Catless Mids and Dyno Tune im at 349 RWHP 354 RWTQ.... Longtubes and Tune will bump HP & TQ significantly on any GTO.... The engine's in the 04 GTO are basically a 04 Z06 "LS6" Motor minus the 243 heads and a tad more aggressive cam. The block in the 04 GTO is a LS6 Block which came in the later year Fbodies as well as the Vette... 04's already have the LS6 intake, so basically if you slap some 243 heads on and a Z06 Cam you will have a 405hp engine. Obvioulsy if your gonna put a cam in your car your gonna go bigger than a Stock Z06 cam which will only make more power... Figure out a goal for your car and go from there, Trying to match it with a stock 05-06 is pointless if your investing money into your car.... Set a power goal and go for it!!!!

breze84

Those are some pretty shitty numbers, you guys need Driver mods... Bone Stock I ran a 13.243 @ 105.12... If you look down in my Sig thats what I ran with my current mods on street tires with a shitty 60'........ My buddy in his 06 A4 ran a 12.71 @ 108.xx with the same mods with a 1.8 60'....


This Vid is of the first run of the day for both me and him... He ran a 12.71 to my 13.29... I slept on the light a bit and spun do to having a M6.. But you get the idea....
[youtube]e7Hg5SISLTM[/youtube]

DNTMPME

It's actualy 350hp and 365ft lbs @ 4000 rpm (it's peak) Not sure where you guys got 375, but anyways... I ran a 13.345@106 in my '04 M6... It was completely stock down to the yellow paper filter... I left some on the table with my 2.10 60ft...

It doesn't take much to get to 400 at the wheels... Headers, CAI, cam, tune, injectors, and of coarse exhaust... If your smart and look for good deals, you can have it for right at or below $2k

And torque management only applies to A4 cars... M6 cars don't have TQ MGMNT

breze84

You know Mike with the Silver 05 GTO with TSW wheels??? Hes down in Tulsa OK

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

with the '04s a good driver can run 13.2-13.3 with a M6. the autos are a good 3-5 tenths slower out of the box. LS2s can run 12.9. now remember that those numbers take a reasonable DA so some shouldn't despair if they live at altitude or on a hot night. they are a bitch to launch. robo-cars....er, i mean automatics are the preferred drag car because unlike humans they don't make mistakes and can shift faster. what's the fun in that. i bought the car to drive not have it drive me so a manual is the only way to go.

rear springs are weak and sag easily, the front strut mounts seem to collapse too soon, the '04 gauge cluster sometimes goes wacky and the ignition switch and door lock actuators are prone to failure. not too bad of a list. oh, one more thing. people under 40 seem to have a hard time not wrecking them as they aren't used to RWD performance cars. if you feel it start to kick out, IMMEDIATELY take your foot out of it. it will snap back in line.