Pontiac GTO 2004-2006 The Modern Goat

header install on an 05 gto a4

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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Default header install on an 05 gto a4

just wondering my buddy has an 05 gto and we were wondering how difficult a header install would be on it and what the main issues would be?

We also are wondering if he should get aftermarket heads or to just keep the stock 243's and get them port and polished?
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:13 AM
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The MAIN issue for me was the power steering rack. This must come out. Whileit is a PITA, its not as bad as people make it out to be. Two of the PS lines must be removed from the rack. And after that, there are 2 bolts, one on each side, holding the steering rack to the K-member. Will a get a bit messy as well. Stock exhaust manifoldswill come out through the top of the bay, new headers will need to goin through the bottom. The steering rack was the only main obstacle.
As for heads, porting is the cheaper alternative, obviously. While some people swear by this, I will be getting some nice TF or AFRs when the time comes. Porting without a doubt, does work and gains have been proven time and time again. Take that as you will.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:15 AM
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If you go over to LS1GTO, there is a write up/sticky that was very useful to me. Or GM performance had an article on an 04 that helped a little bit as well, titled "Back In Black".
Hope this helps.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:37 AM
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only hard part is mentioned above, the steering rack.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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I didn't have to take my rack out we just removed the lines and dropped it, what took us a minute to get back in was the steering knuckle as it was not lined up properly. It's very straight forward after the rack and knuckle are handled.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 03:06 PM
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Like mentioned, the Knuckle has always caused the most problems for me. I have done about 8-9 of these and that was the biggest PITA. The rack and the lines never caused much problems. Didn't even use stubbies, just did the bottom line from the bottom of the car and the top line from the top.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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Anyone have problems with the top of the steering wheel not being at 12 o'clock with the wheels pointed straight after dropping and reinstalling the rack? Or is that the issue about the steering knuckle that was mentioned above?
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonnie Bravo
I didn't have to take my rack out we just removed the lines and dropped it, what took us a minute to get back in was the steering knuckle as it was not lined up properly. It's very straight forward after the rack and knuckle are handled.
Sorry, I should have been more clear. The steering rack doesnt have to come out completely. I just let mine hang as well, like stated above. And I agree with the knucle statement. Lining the knuckle up was harder than the steering rack for sure. FYI, The PS lines that need to be disconnected are the ones closer towards the front of the car. The lines closer towards the back of the car DO NOT need to be disconnected.
Hope this helps.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by arpell
Anyone have problems with the top of the steering wheel not being at 12 o'clock with the wheels pointed straight after dropping and reinstalling the rack? Or is that the issue about the steering knuckle that was mentioned above?
Try not to move the steering wheel and tires too much and you should be ok. Yeah while getting the knuckle back together this is usually the time that you can do the most wrong with the steering wheel alignment.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SparksAI
Try not to move the steering wheel and tires too much and you should be ok. Yeah while getting the knuckle back together this is usually the time that you can do the most wrong with the steering wheel alignment.
Truth.
Did you get an alignment after you header install?
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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When we installed our headers, we didn't have any issue with the steering wheel not being staight. As long as you don't fool with it and keep it locked you should be fine.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by anmracing
When we installed our headers, we didn't have any issue with the steering wheel not being staight. As long as you don't fool with it and keep it locked you should be fine.
I heard of locking the steering wheel before you start anything as well. I just dont understand how, once the steering rack is disconnected from the knuckle, what would prevent the wheels from not moving? The steering wheel is what gets locked not the actual front wheels. But I have heard this from personal board members, sponsors, and vendors. I did lock my steering wheel before I did anything and didnt have a problem, though.
OP, GL on your upcoming venture.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 07:05 AM
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Dont worry about the heads till you up grade the cam, unless your going with a power adder like a supercharger and want to run lower compression with the stock cam. Otherwise everything else you need was mentioned already. Good luck.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Any updates OP? I want moar picshurs.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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i have been reading all the responses and i really appreciate the feedback there is alot of useful info and tips. i relayed everything to my buddy and as of right now this is going to be a project over this coming winter, he is trying to get his full exhaust first then he wants a cam. so as soon as everything is ready to go i will make sure to get pics as we go ahead into the install.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 09:13 AM
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It's very common for the steering wheel to be off a little after dropping the rack. All you need to do is loosen the two big rack bolts and move the rack over one way or the other and tighten it back up. It might take two or three attempts until you get it perfect.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 11:07 PM
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How do you get the PS lines reconnected once the new header is in. And do you have to have the front wheels off the ground in order to get the rack reinstalled. I am having these issues.
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