Lots of things happening
#22
The wheels are back ordered for a while. Probably not until January.
Granted, KWs probably are the best option but they are far more expensive than Stance and BC.
#24
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The wheels are back ordered for a while. Probably not until January.
Inverted shocks, greater height adjustability (I hear BC racing won't match factory ride height and I don't want to scrape my headers), they only cost about 250$ more, plus when I had my Lexus I knew many people who had them and loved them.
Granted, KWs probably are the best option but they are far more expensive than Stance and BC.
Inverted shocks, greater height adjustability (I hear BC racing won't match factory ride height and I don't want to scrape my headers), they only cost about 250$ more, plus when I had my Lexus I knew many people who had them and loved them.
Granted, KWs probably are the best option but they are far more expensive than Stance and BC.
#25
I have BC's on my '04 GTO and I can get it to stock height....Currently I only have it dropped about an inch and I haven't tested to see how low it can actually go....but I'm very happy with the BC purchase.
Sorry to go off topic....looks like they did a GREAT job on repairing your car and I love that color!
Sorry to go off topic....looks like they did a GREAT job on repairing your car and I love that color!
#33
Well, I got the new Monster twin disk in. It's fantastic.
The pedal actually feels lighter than the stock clutch. I'm not sure if the stock clutch was slipping, or if the lower moment of inertia helped, or if it's just variations in the butt dyno but the car certainly seems faster.
There was a tiny bit of chatter at first so I talked to Steve @ Monster and he said it was because I was babying the clutch. So he told me to beat on it and I did, No more chatter
That MGW-P short-shifter is such an improvement over stock. It's a shorter throw and notchier than the last stick shift car I drove: A BMW 335i. And BMW's aren't exactly know for their sloppy shifters .
The one problem I've had is that it rattles in low rpm in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
Right now the rear end is REALLY LOUD and all the time. I'm pretty sure it isn't the ring and pinion (even though before those made some noise on decel) because the sound is constant, increasing pitch with speed and not dependent on accel or decel. It sounds like a bearing to me, plus the shop reused the original ones. Anyways I'm dumping these crap Motives and picking up a used but rebuilt diff with silent Aussie 3.91s. Hopefully that's the last I will have to worry about the rear end.
So I compounded, polished, and waxed the parts that had not been painted and until the new diff comes in the car is getting parked in the garage with a car cover.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/74632166@N04/8179769448/http://www.flickr.com/photos/74632166@N04/8179769448/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/74632166@N04/, on Flickr
The pedal actually feels lighter than the stock clutch. I'm not sure if the stock clutch was slipping, or if the lower moment of inertia helped, or if it's just variations in the butt dyno but the car certainly seems faster.
There was a tiny bit of chatter at first so I talked to Steve @ Monster and he said it was because I was babying the clutch. So he told me to beat on it and I did, No more chatter
That MGW-P short-shifter is such an improvement over stock. It's a shorter throw and notchier than the last stick shift car I drove: A BMW 335i. And BMW's aren't exactly know for their sloppy shifters .
The one problem I've had is that it rattles in low rpm in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
Right now the rear end is REALLY LOUD and all the time. I'm pretty sure it isn't the ring and pinion (even though before those made some noise on decel) because the sound is constant, increasing pitch with speed and not dependent on accel or decel. It sounds like a bearing to me, plus the shop reused the original ones. Anyways I'm dumping these crap Motives and picking up a used but rebuilt diff with silent Aussie 3.91s. Hopefully that's the last I will have to worry about the rear end.
So I compounded, polished, and waxed the parts that had not been painted and until the new diff comes in the car is getting parked in the garage with a car cover.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/74632166@N04/8179769448/http://www.flickr.com/photos/74632166@N04/8179769448/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/74632166@N04/, on Flickr
#35
Well, It was between Spec, Diamond, and Monster. Spec seemed to have mixed results, Diamond didn't seem to have very many clutches actually out there, and Monster had sold a bunch with a good reputation. Plus the local shop suggested Monster when I mentioned I was in the market. Originally I was getting a Stage 3, then a Ceramic 11", then the twin came out and I decided to spring for it.
#36
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do you have the Tick adjustable master cylinder? if not, i recommend it. give you slightly more pedal pressure and flows more fluid to your hydraulics. It was a must for my car and i read nothing but good about it.
#38
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i assume it wouldn't be necessary with such a clutch. idk if you had the problem in your car before the clutch, but mine had trouble getting into 1st sometimes and reverse quite often. This is a common problem with fbody cars and may have made its way to the GTO. Just stating that it benefited me. i really like the emblem delete and orange is my favorite color.
#40
Directly from Proxxes. He is the one who modifies them. I bought the one with threads because I didn't want to reuse the stock shifter, but look around he also makes one that fits the stock shifter, and one that comes with his own shifter.
http://www.proxsestuning.com/apps/we...s/show/3234275
http://www.proxsestuning.com/apps/we...s/show/3234275