GFroce1320 or Drivesahft Shop?
#1
GFroce1320 or Drivesahft Shop?
I am in the market to get rid of the factory 2-piece driveshaft in my 04 GTO. I am looking around and there is GForce1320 or Driveshaft Shop. for both. I am leaning towards Driveshaft Shop. Anyone have opinions on either products? or used them and what would you recommend?
Parts I'm looking at are
- 1000HP Rating Steal Driveshaft w/Direct Fit Rear flange
- 600HP Axles with 1-1/8" Torsional Center Bar
Not sure on Axles Subs on what I should get for those or fit they are really needed. I am making around 500HP and 480TQ to the wheel now with a 75 shot but am bumping that up to a 175 shot this spring and want to fix the biggest weak link in the GTO
Parts I'm looking at are
- 1000HP Rating Steal Driveshaft w/Direct Fit Rear flange
- 600HP Axles with 1-1/8" Torsional Center Bar
Not sure on Axles Subs on what I should get for those or fit they are really needed. I am making around 500HP and 480TQ to the wheel now with a 75 shot but am bumping that up to a 175 shot this spring and want to fix the biggest weak link in the GTO
#3
I have used parts from both companies and had good service. I would not get a steel single piece driveshaft. I had one and it was too noisy--clunk--and hard to balance. I have an aluminum and over 600 hp. I had the ds made locally and used the blue rear flange from Dss (Sonnax). If you have an auto, you probably don't need stubs unless you are using a trans brake. Mine look new after many drag runs. Get at least a 3.5" diameter shaft. BE SURE and cut off the seat belt bolts that go thru the floor just in front of the rear yoke. Grind them off flush. If you get some driveline vibration, check your driveline angles.
I have GForce half shafts for years now with no failures. I do like the DSS shafts because of the material they are made from---however, I haven't used any.
I have GForce half shafts for years now with no failures. I do like the DSS shafts because of the material they are made from---however, I haven't used any.
#6
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#11
I can tell you that the 1 piece aluminum is NOT worth it. Get the 2 piece or if you do have problems you will be stuck with it. I had concerns after purching a 1 piece shaft from Kollar racing, and prior to ever recieving the shaft I contacted Josh at the drive shaft shop which told me that he has never heard of any issues with the 1 piece shafts and if I have a problem that I could just send it back for a full refund. Well that was sounded great until I had a problem. SMH
#12
Posted in Davids other thread:
The harmonics occur because the factory did not pay attention to driveline angles. The two piece shaft removes the need for proper angles. If you have a vibration problem, get a digital angle finder with a magnet base. Take the driveshaft off. Measure the angle of the diff yoke, lets say it is 1.5 degrees up. Make the tailshaft of the trans 1.5 degrees down. Now the angles are parallel and the tailshaft to diff are about 1 1/2" offset so that gives you movement in the U joints. That should take care of the harmonics. Worked for me.
The harmonics occur because the factory did not pay attention to driveline angles. The two piece shaft removes the need for proper angles. If you have a vibration problem, get a digital angle finder with a magnet base. Take the driveshaft off. Measure the angle of the diff yoke, lets say it is 1.5 degrees up. Make the tailshaft of the trans 1.5 degrees down. Now the angles are parallel and the tailshaft to diff are about 1 1/2" offset so that gives you movement in the U joints. That should take care of the harmonics. Worked for me.