Pontiac GTO 2004-2006 The Modern Goat

Question on headers

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Old Feb 2, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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Default Question on headers

Wondering if I could get some advice? I want to purchase SLP headers, but not sure what the big difference between the coated and uncoated versions. Does it effect the performance? Plus, what is the difference of race pipes and high flow cats? I live Cincinnati and they have emissons test that I must pass.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 05:54 AM
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The actual power difference between coated and non-coated will be very little, if any at all. The coating will prevent exhaust heat from spreading into your engine compartment and keep the headers clean from rust thus making them last longer.

"Race pipes" are just straight through pipes in place of where cats would normally be. If you need to pass the sniffer you'll have to go with the cats. Make sure the included high-flow cats will pass in your state. Nothing worse than dumping a bunch of cash on cats that won't pass.


Just out of curiosity, what led you to choose the SLP headers over one of the others?
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by xp3nd4bl3
Just out of curiosity, what led you to choose the SLP headers over one of the others?
I was wondering the same thing.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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Why Not? I have the loud mouth so I thought it would fit the best. Which is the best? Sorry, I don't know much on specs. I just like the results
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:20 PM
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They're all pretty much the same...SLP uses a cheaper stainless steal, but then coats them.

I don't think any of them are actual equal-length headers (correct me if I'm wrong), so they should perform similarly.

I've heard Kooks and Dynatechs are easier to install than StainlessWorks due to the passenger side steering rack clearance.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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If they are anything like the product SLP put out for F body's then there may be some ground clearance issues.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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My question for this thread is...

Which brand would everyone suggest for my 05 if cost didnt matter? I know Kooks fit very well and most all make good power. SLP's are coated which should keep them from getting any rust or looking bad ever. But honestly, how does quality and welds and finish compare from brand to brand? I want to spend money on the best product both for performance and long lasting as well as something that will fit well to begin with.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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I haven't seen the Kooks (or any GTO header for that matter) in person. But i have heard no complaints about the quality from anyone. There's a reason people will pay the pricetag for them.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 10:14 PM
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My guess is that the Kooks are going to be the best in terms of performance, quality, and longevity.

Remember this simple formula: Stainless > Coated
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Snafu
They're all pretty much the same...SLP uses a cheaper stainless steal, but then coats them.

I don't think any of them are actual equal-length headers (correct me if I'm wrong), so they should perform similarly.

I've heard Kooks and Dynatechs are easier to install than StainlessWorks due to the passenger side steering rack clearance.
Just wondering how do you know they use a cheaper steel?
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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I definitely wouldn't say they're all the same. Look at the collector on the Kooks and then look on the SLP.
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Old Feb 4, 2005 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Snafu
They're all pretty much the same...SLP uses a cheaper stainless steal, but then coats them.

I don't think any of them are actual equal-length headers (correct me if I'm wrong), so they should perform similarly.

I've heard Kooks and Dynatechs are easier to install than StainlessWorks due to the passenger side steering rack clearance.
The dynatechs require you to cut a brace a bit on the drivers side or remove it. So far the Kooks are the only ones that either don't sit to close to the steering rack, or require some beating to get off the rack and don't require you to remove a brace.

Noone has put on the SLP long tubes yet though.
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Old Feb 4, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by xp3nd4bl3
I definitely wouldn't say they're all the same. Look at the collector on the Kooks and then look on the SLP.
I meant performance wise...you might see a 1-2 hp variance.

Just wondering how do you know they use a cheaper steel?
Product Description:
GTO Long-Tube Header Features

Constructed entirely from mandrel-bent 409 stainless steel
Heavy-duty (3/8"), one-piece flanges resist warping
Worth up to 25 additional rear-wheel horsepower
Aluminum-ceramic coating provides superior performance, appearance, and component longevity

Quote from Ryerson pg 242 and 243

304 - Stainless Steel - Chrome Nickel, Non-Hardening, Austentic (non-magnetic).
The most widely used of the stainless and heat resisting steels. Offers good corrosion resistance to many chemical corrodents as well as industrial atmospheres. Has very good formability and can be readily welded by all common methods. 304 Prodec offers imporved machinability.

409 - Stainless Steel - Chrome-Non Hardenable-Ferritic (Magnetic).
Lowest cost stainless - used extensively in automotive exhaust systems. Because of its combination of economy and good resistance to oxidation and corrosion, it creates opportunities to economically improve the perfromance of a wide range of parts where surface appreance is not important.
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Old Feb 4, 2005 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jfulcher
The dynatechs require you to cut a brace a bit on the drivers side or remove it. So far the Kooks are the only ones that either don't sit to close to the steering rack, or require some beating to get off the rack and don't require you to remove a brace.

Noone has put on the SLP long tubes yet though.
The kooks you do need to jack the motor up . Also do have to remove the brace and lower the rack . Did this yesterday . Don't disconnect the lines. It is not needed . They are awesome though . Car needs a tune . Runs rich +7ltft
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Old Feb 4, 2005 | 06:18 PM
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Right but you can put the brace back on.. With the dynatechs you have to cut the brace or bolts, but most just leave it off.
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Old Feb 5, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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I cut the bracket at the edge of the back two bolts . They hold your clutch line so I did not them.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueSix
If they are anything like the product SLP put out for F body's then there may be some ground clearance issues.
Actually, I contacted SLP and they told me there is no clearance issues. They are claiming 25 rear horsepower!! As anyone installed them to confirm this?
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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I'd be willing to bet you'd get at least the same gains from any LT header on an LS1/LS2.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 12:51 AM
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Whats wrong with the factory exhaust system? Is the expense and work worth the gains you would get from headers?

I just purchased an 04 blue on blue with the m6. I also installed the magnuson sc. Do you guys think I need headers?
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 07:30 AM
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The ceramic coating on headers are mainly to keep some of the heat from soaking into the engine compartment. This is hard to measure as far as power, but I think we all agree the cooler the engine compartment, the better. The coating also helps with rust prevention. I think the coated SLP headers are still stainless steel, although the long tube do use the cheaper 409 S/S (which is also used in all the OEM exhaust pipes which lasts for years). For the budget minded that would like to save $200, I don't think you can go wrong with SLP.

Cesslord, if you are installing a SC, then you really should consider headers so that baby can breathe.
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