GTO problem
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
GTO problem Last weekend a guy had a new “05 GTO at our local 1/8-mile drag strip. It had a new set of drag radials and only 1K miles. He was leaving without wheel spin and stated traction was not an issue. The car was an auto and he said he was power braking as high as the brakes would hold before launching and there was no spin. The sad part of this is the car was only turning 9.2 at 78. To say the least the owner was disappointed. He was expecting at least 8.7 with an 80+ mph trap speed.
On the same night a totally stock ’98 Z28 with 118K was turning 8.8 at 81 on stock rubber.
The GTO owner has a 2001 long bed Chevy truck with the 5.3 that runs 9.5 with just a few performance modifications.
Apparently the week before with stock rear tires he couldn’t get the GTO below 9.5.
I have been considering buying one of these cars because if they ran as advertised only a set of drag radials would get you to an 8.6-8.5. In this case the car is nowhere close.
I’m not trying to put down the GTO in any way because I plan to buy one for my streetcar. I just can’t understand why the performance is so far off the advertised mark. Especially since wheel spin was not a factor and yes traction control was off.
I currently own a ’98 Vette and a LS1 Z28 that runs 7.9 without the juice 7.0 with. I plan further mods and that’s why I want a GTO for my street ride. I really like the M&M blue.
Has anyone else had a similar experience?
On the same night a totally stock ’98 Z28 with 118K was turning 8.8 at 81 on stock rubber.
The GTO owner has a 2001 long bed Chevy truck with the 5.3 that runs 9.5 with just a few performance modifications.
Apparently the week before with stock rear tires he couldn’t get the GTO below 9.5.
I have been considering buying one of these cars because if they ran as advertised only a set of drag radials would get you to an 8.6-8.5. In this case the car is nowhere close.
I’m not trying to put down the GTO in any way because I plan to buy one for my streetcar. I just can’t understand why the performance is so far off the advertised mark. Especially since wheel spin was not a factor and yes traction control was off.
I currently own a ’98 Vette and a LS1 Z28 that runs 7.9 without the juice 7.0 with. I plan further mods and that’s why I want a GTO for my street ride. I really like the M&M blue.
Has anyone else had a similar experience?
Originally Posted by Sunny
Last weekend a guy had a new “05 GTO at our local 1/8-mile drag strip. It had a new set of drag radials and only 1K miles. He was leaving without wheel spin and stated traction was not an issue. The car was an auto and he said he was power braking as high as the brakes would hold before launching and there was no spin. The sad part of this is the car was only turning 9.2 at 78. To say the least the owner was disappointed. He was expecting at least 8.7 with an 80+ mph trap speed.
On the same night a totally stock ’98 Z28 with 118K was turning 8.8 at 81 on stock rubber.
The GTO owner has a 2001 long bed Chevy truck with the 5.3 that runs 9.5 with just a few performance modifications.
Apparently the week before with stock rear tires he couldn’t get the GTO below 9.5.
I have been considering buying one of these cars because if they ran as advertised only a set of drag radials would get you to an 8.6-8.5. In this case the car is nowhere close.
I’m not trying to put down the GTO in any way because I plan to buy one for my streetcar. I just can’t understand why the performance is so far off the advertised mark. Especially since wheel spin was not a factor and yes traction control was off.
I currently own a ’98 Vette and a LS1 Z28 that runs 7.9 without the juice 7.0 with. I plan further mods and that’s why I want a GTO for my street ride. I really like the M&M blue.
Has anyone else had a similar experience?
On the same night a totally stock ’98 Z28 with 118K was turning 8.8 at 81 on stock rubber.
The GTO owner has a 2001 long bed Chevy truck with the 5.3 that runs 9.5 with just a few performance modifications.
Apparently the week before with stock rear tires he couldn’t get the GTO below 9.5.
I have been considering buying one of these cars because if they ran as advertised only a set of drag radials would get you to an 8.6-8.5. In this case the car is nowhere close.
I’m not trying to put down the GTO in any way because I plan to buy one for my streetcar. I just can’t understand why the performance is so far off the advertised mark. Especially since wheel spin was not a factor and yes traction control was off.
I currently own a ’98 Vette and a LS1 Z28 that runs 7.9 without the juice 7.0 with. I plan further mods and that’s why I want a GTO for my street ride. I really like the M&M blue.
Has anyone else had a similar experience?
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: Little Rock, AR
Even though the GTO has a LS1/2 they have excessive weight, IRS and soft rear springs. They are a quick car but if you are gonna compare it to a LS1 Z28, the Z has a slight edge due to the weight and a few other areas. Now go for a long drive and you will see why some of us bought a GTO and not a pony type of car. I loved my F-Body but do not regret trading in on the GTO. More refined, comfy seats and of course the LS1. It really depends on what your ultimate goal is. Good luck
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Originally Posted by Birddog0
...or perhaps the "1K miles" might have something to do with this?
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
A few things to remember. First, make sure Traction Control is off. Lower tire pressure to 20-25 psi. And of course get an edit or tune to remove torque management. On 04's there is no TM on M6's but there is on A4's. On 05's you have TM on both M6's and A4's which is a pain in the ***.
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 789
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
The track is a bad gauge for the performance of the GTO since their is so much heat soak with these cars. The PCM pulls a ton of power when the coolant and intake temps rise. I've put a lower temp thermostat in my 05 this past week and it is clearly quicker on the highway where the temps run about 15-20° cooler now than before. Even in the city it is slightly faster. Now bringing down the heat soak on the intake temp sensor (located in the MAF which is directly behind the radiator, stupid place for it) makes a huge difference. I believe one person recently reported better than half second gains going from 100+ intake temps to ambient air temps around 80° by chilling the MAF with before runs and logging actual temps using a CAN based data logger.
