LS2 Heat Soak Reduction Kit

http://www.vectormotorsports.com/ind...mart&Itemid=28

DiabloSport Predator U7191 for tuner. Will take care of the torque management.

 

your 1/8th mile looks pretty crappy, like maybe your not getting on it until after the 60'..not sure what it is but with proper cooling i was able to make mine hit 12.95 @ 108.8 with a 8.412 1/8th mile. back half seems a little slow but again the heat soak plays a big part in your times. best way to counter act the heat soak is have a friend help push you to the burnout box, and do your burnout before you car gets to operating temp. you'll notice a huge difference

 

i agree about your mileage being low. mine felt like crap until about 5k. like it was being held back.

 

I had mine at the track with 600 miles, it ran a hopping 13.6. By 1000 miles, and my 4th trip to the track, I ran a 13.25. Mileage shouldn't effect it that much if any.

What we need to know: altitude, weather, how were you launching, what rpm where you shifting, how were you shifting, was it hopping or spinning, any other details of the runs. That will tell you where you need to improve.

 

- Leave your intake alone. As you stated, taking out the air box results in pulling intake ait right off of the driver's side exhaust manifold and IAT's of 150F. That will pull timing, as stated before.
- Run 93 octane, 1/4 of a tank, not more.
- adjust your tire pressures ~18 psi for starters
- turn off TC
- let car cool w/ hood open between runs as stated before, and don't run motor in the lanes when unnecessary
- go to the track on a good weather & prep day
- try launching w/ & without stalling, with the lower tire pres you may not have the wheel hop

*If you still aren't in the 13's, have a Professional Tuner shut off the Torque Control (Torque Management), and then try again
*If traction is a problem, run some Nitto DR's

13's will be yours!

 

There are a couple things you can do.

Torque management is probably hurting you the most. A tune will help control it.
Shift points or firmness of shifts can also be adjusted with a tune which may help a bit.

Heat soak is a killer there are a few things you can do. First a lower temp t-stat by itself won't help much due to the cooling capacity of the system as a whole. Combine a lower temp t stat with a tune that adjusts your on/off points for the system fans and you should notice a significant reduction in coolant temps. With the stock t-stat and lowered fan on/off points my car sits at 197 Dg pretty much constantly where it used to sit around 215 dg.

There are two more mods you can do pretty cheaply.
1. IAT (intake air temp) sensor relocation. There is a kit for the 05-06.
2. Thermistor mod. Basically replaces the stock IAT with a "faster reacting and more sensitive" sensor that provides the ECM with IAT information to adjust timing.

And don't feel bad about the times. The first time several of us went to the track we had a tough time breaking into the 13's. After some more experience we were all pretty consistant around 13.7 or so. Diving style and skill has a lot of impact.

You didn't mention if you heated up the tires or what pressure you had them at. try 24 PSI on the rears and 35~40 on the fronts and you'll probably see some improvement.

 

If you run stock street tires, don't deflate them. Leave them at 30+psi or normal pressure. I used to run mine at 32psi. All you are doing is loosing contact patch by lowering the pressure. Good for low 1.9x and a few 1.8x before the drag radials went on.

Drag radials, yes drop the pressure. But not regular radials.

 

It might help reduce wheel hop by deflating.

 

You'll probably find more information on reducing heat soak in ls1gto.com. To reduce/eliminate heat soak, a lot of people has cut a hole in the bottom of their engine bay and stuck their K&N conical filter through it so that the filter will only pick up the cooler air outside and not the hot air from inside the engine bay. I'm not sure if this is practical, because what if you go over a puddle? The worst thing you can do is not even drive your GTO in the rain. That's for pussies.

There are a few people that have also bought a sealed cold air box with a top that only opens for the cold air duct of a fully functional aftermarket hood. MPD makes this combo, but, unlike the above modification, nobody has yet to prove that it lowered IAT's at idle.

 

the gas pedal is the virtical one on the right,
you push it down to the floor (and take your foot off the brake too)