need road course setup advice
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY
need road course setup advice So I've gotten hooked on driving arounds corners and have abandoned any desire to drive in a straight line a 1/4 mile at a time. I have spent some time looking at my options and could use some help. I would like to turn my Camaro into a "just for fun" track car that I can still take for a cruise now and then. I am getting a 2010 Convertible when they come out so this will not be my only toy. I live in Western New York so we get about 4 good months of decent weather, I plan on attending about 4-6 track days a year and I am not sure what direction to go in. I live close to Watkins Glen and a few other larger (1.5 - 3 mile) tracks and that's where I plan on driving. I don't know every detail on my car because a real close friend of mine owns JandJ Speedshop. I just give him the car and he makes it better so I'm not real worried about $$ since he always hooks me up. I just want to set the car up the right way.
Here's what I have...
2000 Camaro SS with 23,000 miles
T56 6 speed
LS1 : Cammed, SLP Cold air, titanium valvetrain upgrades (not sure exactly what because the Cam/valvetrain job was a b-day present from the shop owner), will be getting heads/FAST intake soon, stock bottom end
Moser 12 bolt with 3.42 gears, 33 spline axles, Detroit True Trac
Eibach lowering springs
KYP AGX shocks
Stock brake calipers with cross drilled/slotted rotors Hawk HP Plus pads, high temp fluid
Entire suspension is SPOHN
Is a roll bar like an 8 point necesary for anything other than safety?
Brake upgrade? << I don't know what to do here
Probably should get some different wheels to mount some track tires?
Seats? <<I have no idea what to do here other than my stock one's are garbage
Harnesses just for safety?
Should I be worried about having a brick shithouse for a rear axle?
T-tops... issue at most tracks? Anyone have problems with this before?
Thanks in advance!
Here's what I have...
2000 Camaro SS with 23,000 miles
T56 6 speed
LS1 : Cammed, SLP Cold air, titanium valvetrain upgrades (not sure exactly what because the Cam/valvetrain job was a b-day present from the shop owner), will be getting heads/FAST intake soon, stock bottom end
Moser 12 bolt with 3.42 gears, 33 spline axles, Detroit True Trac
Eibach lowering springs
KYP AGX shocks
Stock brake calipers with cross drilled/slotted rotors Hawk HP Plus pads, high temp fluid
Entire suspension is SPOHN
Is a roll bar like an 8 point necesary for anything other than safety?
Brake upgrade? << I don't know what to do here
Probably should get some different wheels to mount some track tires?
Seats? <<I have no idea what to do here other than my stock one's are garbage
Harnesses just for safety?
Should I be worried about having a brick shithouse for a rear axle?
T-tops... issue at most tracks? Anyone have problems with this before?
Thanks in advance!
Have you been on a road course before?
fresh fluid, good pads, street tires should be fine as long as they are in good shape.
don't need a cage yet............ stock seats will be fine as well as the stock restraint, certified helmet. your t-tops may have to come out.
fresh fluid, good pads, street tires should be fine as long as they are in good shape.
don't need a cage yet............ stock seats will be fine as well as the stock restraint, certified helmet. your t-tops may have to come out.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY
I have been on a road course and I'd like to get more into it...
for now, the only thing i would say to change is get rid of the brake rotors. get some brembo blanks from Sam Strano, or the ATE rotors and flush the fluid with some ATE superblue. maybe upgrade the pads too. a cage will obviously help you if something happens, but isn't really needed as you get started (unless its required with you who you run with). if you search around you can find harness bars so you can at least have some racing harnesses so you dont slide around in our crap seats.
the best thing you can do right now is just get out there, have fun and get seat time. as you get more seat time you will learn what you want the car to do more of and less of and you'll be able to better modify the car for that...rather then just throw parts at it and maybe waste some $. eibach springs aren't the best by far same with the KYBs, but it's a start
by entire spohn suspension, what does that entail?
the best thing you can do right now is just get out there, have fun and get seat time. as you get more seat time you will learn what you want the car to do more of and less of and you'll be able to better modify the car for that...rather then just throw parts at it and maybe waste some $. eibach springs aren't the best by far same with the KYBs, but it's a start
by entire spohn suspension, what does that entail?
see first question in my reply. Are you with NASA or SCCA or other group? check out their rules and other cars around the paddock as for cage and harness 8 pnt and you may go with atleast a six point harness but your shop should be able to get you set up. Cage is very important to follow the rules on aswell as the harness this is when you will change the seats. if you are still doing DEs then you will need a simlr seat for pass. Then extra set of rims and some trackday tires unless you plan on trailering it to the track.
So I've gotten hooked on driving arounds corners and have abandoned any desire to drive in a straight line a 1/4 mile at a time. I have spent some time looking at my options and could use some help. I would like to turn my Camaro into a "just for fun" track car that I can still take for a cruise now and then. I am getting a 2010 Convertible when they come out so this will not be my only toy. I live in Western New York so we get about 4 good months of decent weather, I plan on attending about 4-6 track days a year and I am not sure what direction to go in. I live close to Watkins Glen and a few other larger (1.5 - 3 mile) tracks and that's where I plan on driving. I don't know every detail on my car because a real close friend of mine owns JandJ Speedshop. I just give him the car and he makes it better so I'm not real worried about $$ since he always hooks me up. I just want to set the car up the right way.
Here's what I have...
2000 Camaro SS with 23,000 miles
T56 6 speed
LS1 : Cammed, SLP Cold air, titanium valvetrain upgrades (not sure exactly what because the Cam/valvetrain job was a b-day present from the shop owner), will be getting heads/FAST intake soon, stock bottom end
Moser 12 bolt with 3.42 gears, 33 spline axles, Detroit True Trac
Eibach lowering springs
KYP AGX shocks
Stock brake calipers with cross drilled/slotted rotors Hawk HP Plus pads, high temp fluid
Entire suspension is SPOHN
Is a roll bar like an 8 point necesary for anything other than safety?
Brake upgrade? << I don't know what to do here
Probably should get some different wheels to mount some track tires?
Seats? <<I have no idea what to do here other than my stock one's are garbage
Harnesses just for safety?
Should I be worried about having a brick shithouse for a rear axle?
T-tops... issue at most tracks? Anyone have problems with this before?
Thanks in advance!
Here's what I have...
2000 Camaro SS with 23,000 miles
T56 6 speed
LS1 : Cammed, SLP Cold air, titanium valvetrain upgrades (not sure exactly what because the Cam/valvetrain job was a b-day present from the shop owner), will be getting heads/FAST intake soon, stock bottom end
Moser 12 bolt with 3.42 gears, 33 spline axles, Detroit True Trac
Eibach lowering springs
KYP AGX shocks
Stock brake calipers with cross drilled/slotted rotors Hawk HP Plus pads, high temp fluid
Entire suspension is SPOHN
Is a roll bar like an 8 point necesary for anything other than safety?
Brake upgrade? << I don't know what to do here
Probably should get some different wheels to mount some track tires?
Seats? <<I have no idea what to do here other than my stock one's are garbage
Harnesses just for safety?
Should I be worried about having a brick shithouse for a rear axle?
T-tops... issue at most tracks? Anyone have problems with this before?
Thanks in advance!
For less than half what you get for your car, you can buy a car that has "seen better days." There are a couple LS1 equipped cars around here that are in the $4-5K range.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY
If you ever get the chance you NEED to go... it's amazing.
I haven't joned any groups yet but I thought about it and I do normally trailer it so if something happened I had a way to get it home. I like the harness bar idea...
that thought has crossed my mind, especially if track duty became it's main function.
great ideas guys, thanks!
see first question in my reply. Are you with NASA or SCCA or other group? check out their rules and other cars around the paddock as for cage and harness 8 pnt and you may go with atleast a six point harness but your shop should be able to get you set up. Cage is very important to follow the rules on aswell as the harness this is when you will change the seats. if you are still doing DEs then you will need a simlr seat for pass. Then extra set of rims and some trackday tires unless you plan on trailering it to the track.
My suggestion is to sell this car. It looks like a really nice, well equipped, low mileage car. You should be able to get $10K or more for it. Putting it into track duty will not allow you to keep it nice looking. Been down that road already.
For less than half what you get for your car, you can buy a car that has "seen better days." There are a couple LS1 equipped cars around here that are in the $4-5K range.
For less than half what you get for your car, you can buy a car that has "seen better days." There are a couple LS1 equipped cars around here that are in the $4-5K range.
great ideas guys, thanks!
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY
for now, the only thing i would say to change is get rid of the brake rotors. get some brembo blanks from Sam Strano, or the ATE rotors and flush the fluid with some ATE superblue. maybe upgrade the pads too. a cage will obviously help you if something happens, but isn't really needed as you get started (unless its required with you who you run with). if you search around you can find harness bars so you can at least have some racing harnesses so you dont slide around in our crap seats.
the best thing you can do right now is just get out there, have fun and get seat time. as you get more seat time you will learn what you want the car to do more of and less of and you'll be able to better modify the car for that...rather then just throw parts at it and maybe waste some $. eibach springs aren't the best by far same with the KYBs, but it's a start
by entire spohn suspension, what does that entail?
the best thing you can do right now is just get out there, have fun and get seat time. as you get more seat time you will learn what you want the car to do more of and less of and you'll be able to better modify the car for that...rather then just throw parts at it and maybe waste some $. eibach springs aren't the best by far same with the KYBs, but it's a start
by entire spohn suspension, what does that entail?
My car went into a ditch after it's first birthday so there are a few things that Jay and I didn't trust.
You're right about the seats though, they suck.
I am of the same mindset, coming from NHRA Super Stock and now having a BLAST road racing and Auto X'ng.
For the limited amount of times I go to the track, I am not modifying to a set of rules.
I'm using the fun to dollar method.
Keep an eye on your Power Steering - I switched over to Redline ATF with good results.
Some recommend a cooler, slower pulley or an aftermarket pump.
I use the Brembo blanks with Hawk pads and ATE Super blue fluid with great results. I did learn that the HPS compound pads (great for Auto X) didn't perform well on the road course. They glazed. I put DTC-70 compound up front and left the HPS on rear for great results.
Dollar for dollar, it's hard to beat a set of Hoosier road race slicks.
They'll make you hungry for the Porsches/Ferrari's on the track!
The KYB AGX's are OK (I have them) but I'm hoping to get Koni's when the budget allows. When you use the AGX's hard, they loose response and can hit the stops which can be a little un-nerving at speed.
For the limited amount of times I go to the track, I am not modifying to a set of rules.
I'm using the fun to dollar method.
Keep an eye on your Power Steering - I switched over to Redline ATF with good results.
Some recommend a cooler, slower pulley or an aftermarket pump.
I use the Brembo blanks with Hawk pads and ATE Super blue fluid with great results. I did learn that the HPS compound pads (great for Auto X) didn't perform well on the road course. They glazed. I put DTC-70 compound up front and left the HPS on rear for great results.
Dollar for dollar, it's hard to beat a set of Hoosier road race slicks.
They'll make you hungry for the Porsches/Ferrari's on the track!
The KYB AGX's are OK (I have them) but I'm hoping to get Koni's when the budget allows. When you use the AGX's hard, they loose response and can hit the stops which can be a little un-nerving at speed.
A dedicated track requires some additional infrastructure, like a trailer and tow rig.
But, once you start attending more and more events, you will most likely go down that path any way.
It's like crack ...
But, once you start attending more and more events, you will most likely go down that path any way.
It's like crack ...
TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Rolesville, NC
Have seen full built CMC Race ( Gen II) Camaros for Sale at $15K
82 Camaro chassis,solid Florida chassis with about 30 races.
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1335...-HSR-NASA.html
and this
Race Car 1989 Camaro ACCA NASA CMC Class Road Racing
Vehicle Description
1989 IROC Camaro Race Car, 1LE factory produced race model. 225 Horse Power (stock) 305 C.I. TPI Injected V-8. Never driven on the street.
$10,000
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1343...rd-Holder.html
82 Camaro chassis,solid Florida chassis with about 30 races.
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1335...-HSR-NASA.html
and this
Race Car 1989 Camaro ACCA NASA CMC Class Road Racing
Vehicle Description
1989 IROC Camaro Race Car, 1LE factory produced race model. 225 Horse Power (stock) 305 C.I. TPI Injected V-8. Never driven on the street.
$10,000
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1343...rd-Holder.html
Have seen full built CMC Race ( Gen II) Camaros for Sale at $15K
82 Camaro chassis,solid Florida chassis with about 30 races.
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1335...-HSR-NASA.html
and this
Race Car 1989 Camaro ACCA NASA CMC Class Road Racing
Vehicle Description
1989 IROC Camaro Race Car, 1LE factory produced race model. 225 Horse Power (stock) 305 C.I. TPI Injected V-8. Never driven on the street.
$10,000
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1343...rd-Holder.html
82 Camaro chassis,solid Florida chassis with about 30 races.
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1335...-HSR-NASA.html
and this
Race Car 1989 Camaro ACCA NASA CMC Class Road Racing
Vehicle Description
1989 IROC Camaro Race Car, 1LE factory produced race model. 225 Horse Power (stock) 305 C.I. TPI Injected V-8. Never driven on the street.
$10,000
http://nasa.racingjunk.com/post/1343...rd-Holder.html
http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm
Thanks ... I apprecaite the plug. It's an awesome car ...
http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm
http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm
no prob, least i could do
My first suggestion would be to invest in some reading materials, join NASA and SCCA and get yourself informed about all of the required safety rules. Then look around on forums like www.FRRAX.com to see the level of preparation that others have gone through.
From there you can make the decision about what kind of racing you want to do and what kind of budget you have to invest in your racing goals.
The best thing you can do is put in laps, autocross or road course does not matter, as long as it is seat time, you can learn from it. Any car, any opportunity, just get out there and get after it. You would be surprised what just hopping in someone elses car can teach you about any shortcomings of your skills or your own car.
-Tim
From there you can make the decision about what kind of racing you want to do and what kind of budget you have to invest in your racing goals.
The best thing you can do is put in laps, autocross or road course does not matter, as long as it is seat time, you can learn from it. Any car, any opportunity, just get out there and get after it. You would be surprised what just hopping in someone elses car can teach you about any shortcomings of your skills or your own car.
-Tim
The best thing you can do is put in laps, autocross or road course does not matter, as long as it is seat time, you can learn from it. Any car, any opportunity, just get out there and get after it. You would be surprised what just hopping in someone elses car can teach you about any shortcomings of your skills or your own car.
-Tim
-Tim
They might say ... "nothing to add" which is great or they might pass along a nugget of information that changes your style or line and you see tremendous results.
Example? 'Down shift at the last minute' to reduce the occurrence of wheel hop under braking. Since I changed my driving style, I've had no brake hop issues.
In my experience, if an instructor ever has "nothing to add" you just did something they didn't think of. Any driver at any experience level can show you something you didn't think of or try before.
-Tim
-Tim