decent set-up
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
From: Home town Clive,IA current town FORT BENNING GEORGIA
decent set-up hey guys, i have a 2000 camaro ss m6 i have put some thought into it and im building my car for the road course, time attacks, and autox. so far my car has prc 2.5 5.3 heads with the ms3 cam i figured swapping that cam out to a 228r would be better, but i am planning on building my suspension hardcore. but the question that concerns me the most is their a website on here were i can find spraco/momo seats, stearing wheels, delete panels for interior.
p.s. are there any tips you guys would recommend for starting out with an lsx car.
p.s. are there any tips you guys would recommend for starting out with an lsx car.
Then visit a local event. Get to know the folks already competing, ask a LOT of questions and take LOTS of pictures.
Then read the rules once again.
After you have laid that foundation, then begin formulating a plan.
Nothing like throwing a Visa card full of parts into a car only to find out it puts you in a class where you stand no chance of being competitive.
Keep the mullet-mobile and BEAT the Vette's. It's much more satisfying.
Instead of listing all that would help, check out my for sale ad. It has everything I've got. It's all that's needed to build a state championship winning car. Discard the "new" stuff, as that's all post-race season.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...r-classes.html
Not trying to sell my own car by saying this, but it is ALWAYS cheaper to buy a racecar than build one. I haven't added up the prices for all that stuff, and I don't want to. It's probably near $50k, not counting all the stuff that ISN'T on the car because I didn't like it (3 torque arms, several sets of shocks, brakes, etc.).
Instead of listing all that would help, check out my for sale ad. It has everything I've got. It's all that's needed to build a state championship winning car. Discard the "new" stuff, as that's all post-race season.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...r-classes.html
Not trying to sell my own car by saying this, but it is ALWAYS cheaper to buy a racecar than build one. I haven't added up the prices for all that stuff, and I don't want to. It's probably near $50k, not counting all the stuff that ISN'T on the car because I didn't like it (3 torque arms, several sets of shocks, brakes, etc.).
beating a vette is easier said than done....but I'm not giving up yet.
Here locally it's a daunting site when you see a Z06 in stock class beat a 550hp S/C vette.
The driver has alot to do with it....but the fact is the vettes were bred for racing!
Here locally it's a daunting site when you see a Z06 in stock class beat a 550hp S/C vette.
The driver has alot to do with it....but the fact is the vettes were bred for racing!
If you're talking autox, then a stock Vette (with race tires) is hard to beat with anything. More power doesn't help, better suspension only gets you so much, and only so much weight can be removed.
For autox, try to avoid comparing across classes. Otherwise, you're going to start notice that you're getting beat by Miatas, VWs, Civics and even small trucks.
Now, if you're talking a road course, the F-body gains a LOT of ground. Looking at your mods, you're already 90% of the way there. Grab a set of the widest wheels you can find. Check out Tire Rack - they had 18x10.5 C6 replicas for $100 apiece a few months ago. Then, buy a set of take-off slicks ($300 for the set) for those wheels. I'd recommend the Goodyear 25.5x10-18 in the R250 compound for road racing and HPDEs.
Also a good set of brake pads. Some Carbotech XP10s or XP12s will give you good stopping and no fade, even though you have no cooling or anything. Oh, and good fluid (Wilwood 570 or better).
Turn up the rebound on the rear to help avoid brake hop and excessive nose dive.
That's about it. After that, it's just driver. Learn the courses and out drive the Vettes. And, you still shouldn't expect to beat them at autox. You can, it's just hard. But, you can beat them on the road course.
Before I started door-to-door racing, a C6 Z06 showed up at the track. My car was similar to yours - it weighed 250lbs less but had stock cam, but better brakes andd tires. Although I had problems on straights with him, I ate him up in the turns. After running against him, I rode with him. He wasn't a cream puff. He was driving that car to the limits - redline, howling tires, ABS kicking in, etc.
For autox, try to avoid comparing across classes. Otherwise, you're going to start notice that you're getting beat by Miatas, VWs, Civics and even small trucks.
Now, if you're talking a road course, the F-body gains a LOT of ground. Looking at your mods, you're already 90% of the way there. Grab a set of the widest wheels you can find. Check out Tire Rack - they had 18x10.5 C6 replicas for $100 apiece a few months ago. Then, buy a set of take-off slicks ($300 for the set) for those wheels. I'd recommend the Goodyear 25.5x10-18 in the R250 compound for road racing and HPDEs.
Also a good set of brake pads. Some Carbotech XP10s or XP12s will give you good stopping and no fade, even though you have no cooling or anything. Oh, and good fluid (Wilwood 570 or better).
Turn up the rebound on the rear to help avoid brake hop and excessive nose dive.
That's about it. After that, it's just driver. Learn the courses and out drive the Vettes. And, you still shouldn't expect to beat them at autox. You can, it's just hard. But, you can beat them on the road course.
Before I started door-to-door racing, a C6 Z06 showed up at the track. My car was similar to yours - it weighed 250lbs less but had stock cam, but better brakes andd tires. Although I had problems on straights with him, I ate him up in the turns. After running against him, I rode with him. He wasn't a cream puff. He was driving that car to the limits - redline, howling tires, ABS kicking in, etc.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
From: Home town Clive,IA current town FORT BENNING GEORGIA
well i just wanted to start working on my own car so i can start learning more. a friend of mine has an evo 9 set up for autox as well as road course, he still drives it every now and then on the street. i figured an lsx car would be damn good at that. hahaha yes id like a vette but i dont feel like buyin a car that cost the same as a house
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Evo 9 - that car is good on the track, too. Especially if you get a guy with huge ***** that can drive it well. Since they're AWD, they can get into the throttle LONG before we can. They simply SHOOT out of corners. They may be somewhat limited in overall cornering speeds because of narrower tires and higher CG, but that's more "in theory". They're just plain fast.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
From: North Dallas
My recommendation, if you have not already, is do some HPDEs and/or track events before making changes. Once you can drive (no offense) you will see what the car needs. Everyone talks about seat time and they are right. I, after several HPDEs, am just now making changes to the car to make it better. I'm going after those stock vettes!. You can see my cam in my sig and I think it does very well on the road coarse. Also, these guy are right that the f-body does much better on a big, high speed road coarse than a tight track or AX. Get the experience and techniques down first.