Heavy85

My oil came out sparkly after an open track day I decided I probably had oil starvation and potentially heat issues. I was running about six quarts at the time. I switched to 7 quarts and then the oil came out clean but everytime I started it up after a run it would pour smoke out the exhaust for a few seconds. The overfull oil sucked into the intake and then cooled then got burned off during the next start-up. I was also seeing 230-240 water temps and they would climb each successive run so I thought I was heat soaking the oil. So I added an oil cooler and Accusump. This weekend I ran a two day NASA HPDE event - 175 minutes of track time. I haven't changed oil yet but the dipstick still looks new. Ran 220-230 water temps and had about 6-6.5 quarts in the pan. No more smoke on start-up with the slightly reduced level. The Accusump is the electric version with the 34-40 PSI pressure switch which I have wired to a light. At first I never saw the light come on but as I pushed it harder throughout the day and a ~1/2 quart of oil or so got sucked/burned/?? out the light started coming on for a second in a couple corners - long right handers. I added a quart back in and didn't see the light anymore except on rare occasions later the second day. On the oil cooler I notice that the water temp didn't ratchet up each run and it cooled off much faster after a run so I think it's definitely helping keep things in check. I also managed temps to keep them at or under 230.

So from my first hand experience:

- Without an Accusump or dry sump or baffled pan or whatever run 7 quarts and expect a plume of smoke at start-up after a hard run
- 6.5 quarts is iffy and 6 is not enough
- Accusumps do help as oil pressure otherwise drops in long right handers
- Oil cooler helps control water temps and keeps the oil in very good condition after running ***** to the wall for 175 minutes and 300 miles on the street to and from the track.

Hope others find this useful in deciding how to make their LS survive. Now I need to install an oil temp gauge to better understand the cooler. This was all running full road race slicks so the g-loads are fairly high. Those running street tires could probably get better results with the stock system.

Cameron

toadzq8

iTrader: (43)

good info, thanks.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Can you provide any info or details on the oil cooler setup you have? I know for autoX it's not really required, but eventually I will do some HDPE event and would like to have it in place.

Also, 112 heat index has been the norm here in south texas and omg...it cant be good for the oil or engine. We usually get to run 3 times a group and I can only imagine how hot things are getting.

I'm actually getting my manual hi speed fan switch working this week to use it between runs when staging. That should help a little.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Cameron, that is good information and very good refresher.

The LSx motor, especially 97-00 versions, were in fact prone to oil starvation during high G load turns.

The cross-bolt main design compartmentalizes the block, oil rides up the side, the pick-up pumps its compartment dry and bingo ... oil starvation.

01 and 02 version had windows cast into the main web and reduced the liklilhood. I have some pictures around somewhere where I added 8 quarts of water to an oil pan before it reached the indention in the pan for rod cap clearance.

I popped a 98 TA motor with 60K on it and in 99-00 SLP supplied the local track with 6 Camaro SSs as track cars. They were popping motors almost daily. GMs solution was to overfill by a quart, when it was recommended to put 5.5 quarts in an LS1.

Your observation is correct ... it will smoke on start-up and even "puff" on corner exit. An LS6 PCV conversion helps, but doesn't eliminate the issue.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Interesting. I just checked my data for a few recent races.

In turns 13-14 at No Problem Raceway, I have sustained Gs of .9-1.1 for 8 seconds. This is a 270* right-hand turn onto our front straight.

I have never had my oil pressure light activate. Stock oil pan, no accusump, 6.5 quarts (give or take). A friend of mine has an LS2 in an RX-7 and turns at least 1G. He has an accusump and has never had it activate while on course.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

I was overfilling mine a quart for a total of 6, no wonder they were asking why I was smoking a little. Makes sense now.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Hey I found this article but no parts list, any one have any info for parts?

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/.../photo_08.html

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

tick ... tick ... tick ... tick ...

Actually, 6.5 may've been the difference.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD!!!! There is so much restriction n those barb fittings, it's unreal!!!!

-10AN minimum ...

LG Motorsports had a very nice piece that they had custom made from billet stock that replaced the piece above the filter and used a truck gasket to allow oil flow.

It also had a port already machined to install an electric sender for either temp or pressure.

Next use a quality cooler like Setrab. I have a small, 6x9 cooler with a ducted fan. Works fantastic.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Great info....damn just noticed my damn low speed fans arent even kicking on? WTF.

The temp settings for the high speed fans makes them kick on, but by then the engine is heat soaked....

Luckily I have a temp switch already installed so I'm using that to trigger the low speed fans.

I need to re check PCM settings and take it from there......no scanner or tuner

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Well, when we rebuilt the engine, I put in the oil pan baffles that Improved Racing made. No use in snubbing my nose at fate!

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Also, I'd be worried about sticking my oil filter down below my oil pan like that. I noticed several long gouges in my oil pan recently. It was from going off and coming back on track, which happens occasionally. If my filter stuck down, I'd have ripped it off.

Go with a remote mounted one, if you are doing an oil cooler anyway.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

with a snadwich adaptor

01badz28

iTrader: (5)

My experience is the same as the original posters. I ran my old LS1 at the factory recommended oil level, and blew it up last year after four years of constant autocross. I now have a L92 converted (mostly) to LS3 specs with an aftermarket cam. I'm running an Improved Racing oil pan baffle and keep the oil at 6.5 - 7 quarts when running. I get enough oil blow by on startup and coming off the corners, most folks think I'm about to blow up again.

Any of you all try a catch can to take care of the smoking?

Over the winter I'm adding an Accusump to the mix.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Did you send a letter to the editor of GM High Tech Performance? I read yesterday about a guy trying to update an L92 he had in his garage to LS3 specs. Or something like that.

01badz28

iTrader: (5)

Nope, wasn't me. My car has been running with the L92/LS3 for the past few months.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

I thought that was a little too coincidental.

Heavy85

I used Canton 90 degree remote filter adapter, Canton remote filter, Setrab cooler (NIB off e-bay with FBI evidence tape wrapped around it ....), & -10 Aeroquip Pushlock lines. I have been running 10W30 M1 - what weight is everyone else running as that will impact oil pressures at higher temps? I'm also see the Accusump actuate sometimes at idle with hot oil using the 35-40 PSI switch. Seemed to get worse over the weekend and oil was new when I started. This was 175 minutes of track time. I wonder if the oil is breaking down to the base 10W like they tend to do? How often do most change oil? After much reading I considering changing to GC or Penz P.

Since my g-tech is on the fritz I dont have measured sustained g-loads on track but at autox I'm over 1.2 with the slicks.

As far as the fan goes I have a three way switch and a single SPAL fan. It's on, off, or PCM controlled. During street driving I almost always leave it off. On track it's off unless I forget and leave it PCM controlled. I turn it to PCM controlled during cool down lap and if I have to idle in grid for extended time. I only turn it ON in the garage playing flights to MARS with my 5 year old (it's VERY loud).

Cameron

EDIT - mine is an '02 and before all this my oil pressure idiot light never came on either but the oil came oil sparkly ...

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

thanks heavy...I'm going to start looking into the cooler parts more closely. I'm also looking into a racing baffle for the pan.

I'm still wondering which Setrab cooler you guys pick. There's so many.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

tell you're friend in the RX7 to keep a close eye, LS2s commonly have issues in high G (sustained) left hand corners. Theres a huge thread write up about it on corvette forum in the autocross/road race section. i believe it goes for the LS3 as well...

well, the LS3's especially are having a helluva time staying on track and not blowing up. do a quick search on LS3 Corvettes in SCCA T1 racing, scca just granted the use of a dry sump system for both LS2/3 drivers, and LS3 drivers get a new GMHP baffled (batwing) oil pan to help with the starvation issues, and thus far minus 1 LS2, the dry-sump is working to keep them alive (and give them even more power )