I found one made from 1 3/4 DOM .120 wall bolt in for $480 shipped.

This is a 4 point track day type bar.

Here is the place

http://brokedickracing.com/

I got him down lower on price than what I posted.

 

With a name like brokedick everything should be cheap

 

The question is how would fitmant be? Good prices though.

 

No idea, guy was VERY nice on the phone I think his name was Josh.


I have called a few places and GEEZ the money they want for a bar like this!

 

I thought the same thing till I began building cages. The time and effort it takes to build it and build it right is staggering.

The prices quoted above are stoopid cheap.

There is about 30' of tube in a decent 4 point .. main hoop, 2 rear stabilizers, harness bar and diagonal. The last tube I bought was almost $5/foot for .120 wall, 1.75", DOM.

So $250 for just tube (no fab supplies) and at least $100 in shipping means this guy is only pocketing $130 for his effort. Factor in hole saws, chop saw blades, bur bits ...

I wouldn't build a 4 point for $130. Be careful here. Sometimes you get exactly what you pay for.

 

I understand Mitch, Thanks. I also called I/O Port, Kirk and Auto Power and all were pretty expensive.

All I want is a 4 point to aid in safety and to put good seats in the car and have a point to attach harnesses to.

Any Suggestions?

 

Where are you located? Mobile?

 

Yes, I also need C5 calipers and abutment brackets. The Kore3 kit seems to be the best deal, I already bought the Bob Bishop brackets.

I know some say I dont need them, but when I can activate ABS on the street and this turd aint stoppin it needs more brakes on it.

 

Have you looked into loaded calipers from your local O'Reilly's or Autozone?

They should come with reman caliper, abutments, guide pins and of course, trash brake pads.

You might be surprised at the cost, even without a core.

 

Oreilly is $126 each with a $50 core each, loaded. For a little less dont you think the Kore3 is a better deal? I mean a Oreilly reman kinda skeers me.

Autozone $62 each unloaded, no abutment bracket with a $42 core. Kore3 still looks to be a better deal.

 

Sorry. I misunderstood. Thought the Kore3 question was about adaptor brackets and the need for abutments and calipers was seperate. My bad.

I asked on a racer's forum about a quality cage fabricator near Mobile. Didn't take long for a place called Kirk Racing to get a lot of references.

Google them and give them a call and see what they can do for you. I bet you can get a decent deal on a quality, safe roll bar.

 

I have a differnet opinion about the above statement.
The car can only stop as fast as the tire will allow it.
If you can activate the ABS with the stock stuff, how are bigger brakes going to help you stop faster?
The ABS activation is because you have overcome the tires grip, not overcome the cars brakes...
Bigger brakes will only provide you with more brake torque and better heat dissipation.
More brake torque will only make you activate ABS easier. The car can only stop as fast as the tire will let it. If you are on the ABS, you have prooved that is all that tire is capabile of. More brake torque will not stop the car any faster if the stock brakes have suffecient torque to lock the tires.

Better heat dissipation... That is what you are looking for in bigger brakes.
This is what I think you are looking for. The ability to stop turn after turn lap after lap with no fade, no boiling brake fluid, no trashing of pads etc. with the confidence that they will always be there.

4 point bar.
Make sure whatever you buy has a diagonal and a harness bar and built correcty. I have teched several cars with the bars built backwards etc..
Interesting designs...
I have even seen the diagonal installed backwards...
The builder must have studied European cage pictures as the top of the diagonal was positioned over the pass side head area.

Diagonal should be one pieve of tubing.
The Harness bar should be made of 2 pieces running the entire width of the main hoop, with the diagonal causing the break in the tube.

Just checked out the website.
I did not see any diagonal or cross brace in the pictures.
I also did not see any plates on the rear down bars.
Also, if putting in a bolt in, make sure you have plates on both sides of the pan.
1 plate should be welded to the tube
The other plate will go on the outside of the sheet metal you are bolting to.
You can't go wrong with autopower.
Very proven, and been around for a long time.
I have installed several of these.. They always fit...
The paint was left to be desired.. I have had em shipped with the cardboard protectors and wrap installed over wet paint. I would suggest ordering it unpainted.

 

I have fooled around with the car around the house on some switchback off ramps, the car is capable of corner exit speeds FAR faster than the car can slow down for the next corner entry, you push on the brake pedal, and push and push finally ABS is activated and you HAVE to turn in....it gets your attention for sure.

The car will only see HPDE and autoX duty. I am 295lbs.

 

Didn't mean you, the car?
It matters as in what tubing diameter...
I think you will be happy with the caliper upgrade sounds like you want more feel, easier modulation.

 

I would disagree with that.

AP attaches to the floor pan in the passenger footwell. That is 18g sheet metal that you are asking to support the weight of the car on it's roof.

Welding in floor plates above the rear LCA location and incorporating the floor plate up the side into the sill is by far the best place.

AP also attaches the rear stabilizers to the inner fender wells. Bad, bad idea for same reasons outlined above.

A plate welded to the rear deck above the spring mount gives the most strength and rigidity.

 

I don't disagree with you you mitchntx.
But to me, he sounded like he is looking for a bolt in bar.
What you are discribing is great for a welded in application. (and the proper way to attach a cage to a sheet car)

Is there a bolt in available that incorporates said points?

 

No, there isn't unfortunately.

Here is a picture of a Mustang that had a bolt-in roll bar afixed to the floor pan.

http://www.mustang-parts.org/news/wp...ipped-over.jpg

If you look near the side skirt, just ahead of the Toyo Tires decal you see a round tube with a square plate sticking up in the air. And you see another on the opposite side.

Bolt-in cage.

Driver was semi-seasoned, knew the track and knew the car. He just ran out of talent. It happens to everyone.

Fortunately and miraculously no one was hurt.

 

That picture made my stomach hurt.
It is also the exact reaon why I have tube chassis car!