autox air pressure ?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh area, PA
autox air pressure ? Ran my ws6 in my 3rd autox. It was about 80 degrees outside and via the chalk test had the pressures as follows: fronts 50psi rears 45psi. the front still could have used more pressure as the chalk was still coming off the sidewalls a bit.
running the goodyear eagle f1 gs which are about done.
my question: is this too much air pressure? max inflation is 44 on the tire
even last week when it was 40 degrees i was running fronts 45 and rears 40
i'm switching to bfg g force sports next week until i can afford R tires and a second set of rims
will post video later
running the goodyear eagle f1 gs which are about done.
my question: is this too much air pressure? max inflation is 44 on the tire
even last week when it was 40 degrees i was running fronts 45 and rears 40
i'm switching to bfg g force sports next week until i can afford R tires and a second set of rims
will post video later
Last edited by 99_ws6; Apr 11, 2011 at 07:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh area, PA
Yea the pressures I posted up were cold and still ate the outside tread. i'm not driving that aggressive.
here is the video of my fast run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac8j7cbv8tI
here is the video of my fast run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac8j7cbv8tI
Slower course with a lot of transitions = hard on side walls
WS-6 F-body = heavy F-body
Street tires = soft side walls - usually much softer than AX tires (Hoosiers)
......you definitely want the higher pressures like that the you denoted above.
I see that you are in ESP; purchase a good set of lowering springs (like Sam Strano's - ie something not too low) some good shocks, swaybars and an alignment......this will make for a lot of fun yet keep extremely good street manners.
Good luck !
WS-6 F-body = heavy F-body
Street tires = soft side walls - usually much softer than AX tires (Hoosiers)
......you definitely want the higher pressures like that the you denoted above.
I see that you are in ESP; purchase a good set of lowering springs (like Sam Strano's - ie something not too low) some good shocks, swaybars and an alignment......this will make for a lot of fun yet keep extremely good street manners.
Good luck !
I run 38psi hot. Any more than that and the car is stupid loose and I don't get proper edge wear on the tires.
I agree with what Bowtieboy said. Strano springs, some good shocks, Strano sways, and a good alignment will be immense help. The only thing I'd add to that list is a Watts Link. That's probably the single best piece I've added the car. It makes the rear so much more composed and predictable.
I agree with what Bowtieboy said. Strano springs, some good shocks, Strano sways, and a good alignment will be immense help. The only thing I'd add to that list is a Watts Link. That's probably the single best piece I've added the car. It makes the rear so much more composed and predictable.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh area, PA
I'm slowly adding suspension parts to it. Right now its stock except a strut tower brace and panhard bar (they were nearly free) which put me in ESP. This is the class I want to run in by the end of the year. I plan on adding bigger swaybars soon and getting an alignment when I put on my bfg g force sports.
By next year I'm hoping the following will be done to the car (depending on money): sway bars, shocks, dedicated road racing tires, possibly lowering springs, headers/exhaust, lid.
Thank you all for the input.
By next year I'm hoping the following will be done to the car (depending on money): sway bars, shocks, dedicated road racing tires, possibly lowering springs, headers/exhaust, lid.
Thank you all for the input.
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Verdad Gallardo Don't waste your money on swaybars before doing springs/shocks. All swaybars are going to do to a stock vehcile is limit droop travel on the opposite corner. Even on stock springs, good dampers, and good tires are going to be your best bet.
However, if this is only your 3rd autox - don't buy slicks, and overall stop modding the car. Do maintenance, if there is something that needs to be replaced, obviously look into 'upgrades'. But, spend the money on seattime, and an advanced autox school. Tires and expensive race parts are not going to teach you anything to make you a faster driver.
However, if this is only your 3rd autox - don't buy slicks, and overall stop modding the car. Do maintenance, if there is something that needs to be replaced, obviously look into 'upgrades'. But, spend the money on seattime, and an advanced autox school. Tires and expensive race parts are not going to teach you anything to make you a faster driver.
