what to check and upgrade?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
what to check and upgrade? i have an older bmw with an ls2. it is a track car that was built a year ago. i am an experienced driver, but an absolute newbe to the ls motors. my buddy has the same setup and just had the cam gear bolts back out and cook the motor. What should i be looking to upgrade and double check before my 3day at road america?
2800lb car. fully wet with driver. sticky tires and big brakes.
internally stock ls2 (24k mile) motor.
3qt accusump.
underdrive pulley.
monster clutch / flywheel with arp bolts.
headers / dual 2.5"
wait4me performance mail tune.
getting fuel starvation below 1/2 tank. swirl pot is ordered.
do i need to drill my lifter trays?
should i replace all my timing components?
arp cam gear bits?
should i get it on the dyno for a specific tune?
what else do i need to look out for on these motors?
thanks, Jason
2800lb car. fully wet with driver. sticky tires and big brakes.
internally stock ls2 (24k mile) motor.
3qt accusump.
underdrive pulley.
monster clutch / flywheel with arp bolts.
headers / dual 2.5"
wait4me performance mail tune.
getting fuel starvation below 1/2 tank. swirl pot is ordered.
do i need to drill my lifter trays?
should i replace all my timing components?
arp cam gear bits?
should i get it on the dyno for a specific tune?
what else do i need to look out for on these motors?
thanks, Jason
Dude, that car should be an absolute gas to do Road America in. If you have a stock GM power steering pump, I understand they are prone to overheating and pushing fluid past the cap. There are numerous cheap ways to mitigate this (research here)-or you can get an aftermarket pump.
Send the steering pump to PSC components for a re valve($99) and put a cooler in the return line.
If the engine is together dont sweat the lifter trays.
Does it have the Improved Racing baffle in the oil pan?
I would mount a 10psi hobbs switch to a red light in the dash for the oil pressure. These engines in high grip sustained corners tend to hurt themselves.
There is another guy on here with a white BMW with a setup similar to yours, I would contact him. Search this forum.
If the engine is together dont sweat the lifter trays.
Does it have the Improved Racing baffle in the oil pan?
I would mount a 10psi hobbs switch to a red light in the dash for the oil pressure. These engines in high grip sustained corners tend to hurt themselves.
There is another guy on here with a white BMW with a setup similar to yours, I would contact him. Search this forum.
Check these guys out..........
https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...est-video.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...rack-njmp.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...est-video.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...rack-njmp.html
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Dude, that car should be an absolute gas to do Road America in. If you have a stock GM power steering pump, I understand they are prone to overheating and pushing fluid past the cap. There are numerous cheap ways to mitigate this (research here)-or you can get an aftermarket pump.
Send the steering pump to PSC components for a re valve($99) and put a cooler in the return line.
If the engine is together dont sweat the lifter trays.
Does it have the Improved Racing baffle in the oil pan?
I would mount a 10psi hobbs switch to a red light in the dash for the oil pressure. These engines in high grip sustained corners tend to hurt themselves.
There is another guy on here with a white BMW with a setup similar to yours, I would contact him. Search this forum.
If the engine is together dont sweat the lifter trays.
Does it have the Improved Racing baffle in the oil pan?
I would mount a 10psi hobbs switch to a red light in the dash for the oil pressure. These engines in high grip sustained corners tend to hurt themselves.
There is another guy on here with a white BMW with a setup similar to yours, I would contact him. Search this forum.
oiling - cts-v late model pan. rear sump, is extra deep with factory baffling. plumbed oil cooler and 3 qt accusump. good call on the warning light. i just purchased a 20lb warning light.
so, what is the consensus on timing components. should i pull the front cover, check (llocktight) cam timing bolts? replace timing components? if so, what should i replace?
thanks, Jason
doesnt matter. the stock pump cant take fast, hard turns, especially with slicks. one season of autox on any kind of sticky tire will kill a stock pump, likewise on tracks. get a turn one or the stock revalved. i ran my turn one with slicks and never had a problem, with nothing more then the stock PS cooler.
