FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Just Google Porterfield brakes, ask for Tim.

camarokid91

My cars never hopped on my NT-05s but once I went up to the big boys and started running A6's and V710's. I nearly **** myself when it first happened. Pad slapping the rear helps also for some reason I hear that LT1 cars tend not to hop like the LS1 cars do. My friend ran his lt1 car no hop. He ran multiple spring rates and is now sitting with 1000lbs penske's in the front.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Brake hop at the 6:44 mark

Cricket99SS

New torque arm was one of the first things I changed on the car and this fixed the brake hop almost entirely. The stock torque arm flexes like a coat hangar under hard braking.

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

I can honestly say I have never had any Brake hop on my car, I'm running HP+ fronts and HPS rears with A6's and stock torque arm.

camarokid91

I got it. I run A6's BMR Tq arm and I had to switch to autozone pads in the rear to fix it.

Zedzag

iTrader: (7)

Auto-x in the heat of summer and fresh A6s= ripped lower control arm mounting bracket right off stock subframe. The factory weld appeared to have been cold with little penetration and lots of corrosion underneath promoting the separation. Good thing it was during a relatively low speed event like Auto-x and it didn't happen during the Time Attack I was running a few weeks earlier while I was using the curbage.

Moral of the story is Auto-x may be taken for granted due to most tracks limiting the speeds to around 60 mph or so but its puts a lot of load on suspension parts almost instantly where road course puts load more gradually.

Agreed. Check all your bolts and ensure everything welded has been done properly. I wouldn't ever put one of those flimsy tubular k members on if you paid me.

jrwilliams95z28

run shitty pads in the rear and a nice setup up front and it should eliminate it.

camarokid91

More words of wisdom.

-Change your wheel studs immediately to ARP's
-Check your hubs immediately
-Flush your brake fluid to DOT 4 or 5
-Run redline or some aftermarket PS fluid

brigade24

Here here on the ps fluid...i switched to amsoil atf and it seems to be doing the job.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Also ditch the factory p/s cooler if your car is equipped, all it does is further heat up the fluid. A small transmission cooler plumbed in the return line is far more effective

B4CHawk

I plan on ditching LCARBs; not legal for my class anyway.

orthopod

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff will be doing all of them. A bit confused about the hubs...are you just talking about checking for play?

orthopod

iTrader: (1)

That is what I am leaning towards. I am sure that your setup is awesome no doubt about it but I am looking at saving money in the long run and it seems that going straight to a Wilwood BBK would be the way to go. I know you recently switched to Wilwood...which one do you recommend? I was looking at the 14 inch slotted rotor 6 piston...

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

After swapping to a Wilwood BBK, I wish I would have kept what I had.

In the end rotor rings are more expensive and you have to change wheel bearings more often with a radial mount caliper. Rotor rings cant be bought at any parts store. Changing rotor rings at the track will suck if you have to.

After my first event with the BBK I did not get a revelation from overhead that the BBK was "the ****". I will know better after 3-4 events.

I see no reason for ARP wheel studs, thats just me though.

Wheelman916

Where exactly is the k-member prone to cracking?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Where the lower control arms hook up.

Wheelman916

Good to know. I just checked my PS fluid and it is a gross shade of dark brown... Siphoned some out and put some fresh fluid in for now. I'll flush the system sooner, rather than later.

Okay. I am assuming along the welds? Or around the mounting holes?

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Yep, just give the welds a quick visual check every time you are under the car. Don't worry about the alignment slots. You can even enlarge the stock holes for additional adjustment range.

95Maro

so what I'm hearing is that I shouldn't buy a bmr k member? hmm.. this is news to me... well I'm glad I haven't bought it yet. I wouldn't have figured an aftermarket piece advertised as being stronger than stock would be inferior on the track.