Which PS cooler to use for auto-X/HPDE track? Tube/fin vs Plate style?
04-30-2014, 01:34 AM
#21
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Brake cooling YES!
**DISCLAIMER** I only run in the winter months. And I have the baffle in my pan.
Oil cooling, meh....possibly over rated. I dont have an oil cooler on mine, I change the oil every 2 events. Been that way for 3 years and 20-25 events.
My LS1/LS6 hybrid has been very happy so far.
Make sure you run at least a 10-40 synthetic oil in the car. If you don't have a pan baffle, run it +1 quart and check it twice a day.
**DISCLAIMER** I only run in the winter months. And I have the baffle in my pan.
Oil cooling, meh....possibly over rated. I dont have an oil cooler on mine, I change the oil every 2 events. Been that way for 3 years and 20-25 events.
My LS1/LS6 hybrid has been very happy so far.
Make sure you run at least a 10-40 synthetic oil in the car. If you don't have a pan baffle, run it +1 quart and check it twice a day.
04-30-2014, 09:43 AM
#22
Not to stray too far off topic, however why do you recommend going with 10w40 over the OEM 5w30?
Obviously it's thicker, just trying to understand the rationale. I've been running 5w30 +1 quart on the track, however I'm just trying to wrap my head around whether or not I should change that.
Obviously it's thicker, just trying to understand the rationale. I've been running 5w30 +1 quart on the track, however I'm just trying to wrap my head around whether or not I should change that.
04-30-2014, 10:36 AM
#23
Thanks! I will be ordering the baffle from Michael at Improved Racing this week and will heed your advice to run 10-40 synthetic (Redline?) and check my oil throughout the track day. I plan to run year round so I will be looking at an oil cooling setup from either Alan@BlaineFab or Michael@ImprovedRacing in the near future. Motor longevity are a definite priority for me as this is my DD.
04-30-2014, 11:00 AM
#24
Not to stray too far off topic, however why do you recommend going with 10w40 over the OEM 5w30?
Obviously it's thicker, just trying to understand the rationale. I've been running 5w30 +1 quart on the track, however I'm just trying to wrap my head around whether or not I should change that.
Obviously it's thicker, just trying to understand the rationale. I've been running 5w30 +1 quart on the track, however I'm just trying to wrap my head around whether or not I should change that.
Has to do with oil thinning and shearing of the oil. As the oil is used its shears down to a lower weight oil.
Read up on Bob is the oil guy site.
05-01-2014, 01:08 PM
#25
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Not to stray too far off topic, however why do you recommend going with 10w40 over the OEM 5w30?
Obviously it's thicker, just trying to understand the rationale. I've been running 5w30 +1 quart on the track, however I'm just trying to wrap my head around whether or not I should change that.
Obviously it's thicker, just trying to understand the rationale. I've been running 5w30 +1 quart on the track, however I'm just trying to wrap my head around whether or not I should change that.
A 5W30 oil is rated for a weight of 30 at 212F, which is fine for a street car that never sees temps above 220-230F or so. But at the track, you'll see temps up to 250-260F (or higher). At those temps, a 30 weight oil might be too thin. So it's recommended to run a thicker oil at the track. That's why a lot of race cars run a 50 weight oil.
You can, and probably should, still run a 30 weight oil on the street, though. Lubrication will suffer with the thicker oil at lower temps and will result in more wear at start up. That's why it's very important to run an oil cooler thermostat if you have a cooler and drive the car on the street at all.
05-01-2014, 01:53 PM
#26
A Setrab cooler in the space under the battery or the other side (where the air filter is on an LT1 K&N) with a fan works good.
The stock cooler works great for autoX and even track days, but puts all that heat into the cooling system.
The stock cooler works great for autoX and even track days, but puts all that heat into the cooling system.