Is my setup OK for a first timer at road racing?
I've used Trackmaster, but Harry has a fully developed version for the Droid now. I'd be more inclined to using it vs Trackmaster. Turn it on and forget about it while you're driving.
I don't think the C5 caliper really is all that much better. It's still a slider.
I don't think the C5 caliper really is all that much better. It's still a slider.
As noted above, I wouldn't run HPS pads on the track -- you'll cook them. I would also bite the bullet for blank rotors and bed new pads in on them -- drilled rotors are prone to failure on the track and a simple set of blanks will eliminate that risk.
Based on Strano's recommendation, I ran Hawks DTC-30's on my first track day -- a 95* summer day at Road Atlanta. They're easy to control, work well on the street and they held up to the heat just fine. After I got more seat time, I stepped up to the DTC-60's and DTC-70's (and love them) however I got by just fine for my first 10-12 track days on DTC-30's.
A good brake bleed with DOT4 fluids is a must. Motul is good but extremely expensive. I use ATE Type 200 (the old ATE Blue just a different color). Either would be great.
You'll also want a fresh oil change -- I add an extra quart for the track just to be safe.
Tires are important, however as a beginner it's good to start on street radials. You just want to use common sense here -- tires should be in good shape (not old, cracked, etc.) and properly inflated. If this is your only set of tires/wheels, you'll also want to make sure you have a good bit of tread depth remaining as most groups will run even if it rains.
Finally, the single best mod you can do to get "more" out of the car is more experience for the person in the driver's seat. I'll never forget watching an instructor in a Mini Cooper fly by me at Road Atlanta during my first track day.
Based on Strano's recommendation, I ran Hawks DTC-30's on my first track day -- a 95* summer day at Road Atlanta. They're easy to control, work well on the street and they held up to the heat just fine. After I got more seat time, I stepped up to the DTC-60's and DTC-70's (and love them) however I got by just fine for my first 10-12 track days on DTC-30's.
A good brake bleed with DOT4 fluids is a must. Motul is good but extremely expensive. I use ATE Type 200 (the old ATE Blue just a different color). Either would be great.
You'll also want a fresh oil change -- I add an extra quart for the track just to be safe.
Tires are important, however as a beginner it's good to start on street radials. You just want to use common sense here -- tires should be in good shape (not old, cracked, etc.) and properly inflated. If this is your only set of tires/wheels, you'll also want to make sure you have a good bit of tread depth remaining as most groups will run even if it rains.
Finally, the single best mod you can do to get "more" out of the car is more experience for the person in the driver's seat. I'll never forget watching an instructor in a Mini Cooper fly by me at Road Atlanta during my first track day.
Not to sound like an entry in the classified section, however it just dawned on me that I have a set of DTC-30 pads at home with about 85-90% pad left on them. I bought them from FastFatBoy (a regular in the road race section before he bought a Z06) to have a back-up set and never used them. Shoot me a PM if you're interested and I can definitely save you some money over going with the retail price for a new set.
It would seem I have a conflict of interest to recommend a DTC-30 above and then offer to sell some below. It's worth stating that my only concern would be your safety and enjoyment on the track -- my recommendation above was based solely on that and the idea of selling the pads I have was an afterthought that came later.
It would seem I have a conflict of interest to recommend a DTC-30 above and then offer to sell some below. It's worth stating that my only concern would be your safety and enjoyment on the track -- my recommendation above was based solely on that and the idea of selling the pads I have was an afterthought that came later.
As noted above, I wouldn't run HPS pads on the track -- you'll cook them. I would also bite the bullet for blank rotors and bed new pads in on them -- drilled rotors are prone to failure on the track and a simple set of blanks will eliminate that risk.
Based on Strano's recommendation, I ran Hawks DTC-30's on my first track day -- a 95* summer day at Road Atlanta. They're easy to control, work well on the street and they held up to the heat just fine. After I got more seat time, I stepped up to the DTC-60's and DTC-70's (and love them) however I got by just fine for my first 10-12 track days on DTC-30's.
A good brake bleed with DOT4 fluids is a must. Motul is good but extremely expensive. I use ATE Type 200 (the old ATE Blue just a different color). Either would be great.
You'll also want a fresh oil change -- I add an extra quart for the track just to be safe.
Tires are important, however as a beginner it's good to start on street radials. You just want to use common sense here -- tires should be in good shape (not old, cracked, etc.) and properly inflated. If this is your only set of tires/wheels, you'll also want to make sure you have a good bit of tread depth remaining as most groups will run even if it rains.
Finally, the single best mod you can do to get "more" out of the car is more experience for the person in the driver's seat. I'll never forget watching an instructor in a Mini Cooper fly by me at Road Atlanta during my first track day.
Based on Strano's recommendation, I ran Hawks DTC-30's on my first track day -- a 95* summer day at Road Atlanta. They're easy to control, work well on the street and they held up to the heat just fine. After I got more seat time, I stepped up to the DTC-60's and DTC-70's (and love them) however I got by just fine for my first 10-12 track days on DTC-30's.
A good brake bleed with DOT4 fluids is a must. Motul is good but extremely expensive. I use ATE Type 200 (the old ATE Blue just a different color). Either would be great.
You'll also want a fresh oil change -- I add an extra quart for the track just to be safe.
Tires are important, however as a beginner it's good to start on street radials. You just want to use common sense here -- tires should be in good shape (not old, cracked, etc.) and properly inflated. If this is your only set of tires/wheels, you'll also want to make sure you have a good bit of tread depth remaining as most groups will run even if it rains.
Finally, the single best mod you can do to get "more" out of the car is more experience for the person in the driver's seat. I'll never forget watching an instructor in a Mini Cooper fly by me at Road Atlanta during my first track day.
How much fluid will I need for the flush...1 liter?
Extra oil is a good call too. Do you have any other problems with fluids? I did an autox once and my power steering fluid leaked out from under the cap. Any tricks like a shop rag being tightened down under the cap like a gasket?
Seems like the nitto 555s would be a solid bet especially if it's wet....I hope not because I never drive the car in the rain or even when it's thinking about misting but I think I will make an exception for this!
Good thing with this event is that I will have an instructor riding with me until they deem me fit to be able to pass and take the track properly. So it's not a free for all. I'm excited to put the car at its handling limits and not just at the drag strip!
I will definitely keep those dtc 30s in mind, thx for throwing them put there.
definatly get some tires. and DONT put those 2007 falkens on the car for the track.
definatly add 1 court of oil at track. fbodys are notorious for sucking air in corning. and monitor level constantly. every 2 sessions max.
2 bottles of the Motul 600 should be enough for a complete flush. with some extra left over for future bleeding.
the PS pump will puke fluid out of the cap when pushed. is actually boiling the fluid. you will need a power steering cooler (not the factory WS6/SS radiator hose one) to prevent that. luckily they are super cheap and easy to install.
if your serious about the track, and like nittos, id step up to the NT05. worlds above the 555. as in several seconds a lap faster.
definatly add 1 court of oil at track. fbodys are notorious for sucking air in corning. and monitor level constantly. every 2 sessions max.
2 bottles of the Motul 600 should be enough for a complete flush. with some extra left over for future bleeding.
the PS pump will puke fluid out of the cap when pushed. is actually boiling the fluid. you will need a power steering cooler (not the factory WS6/SS radiator hose one) to prevent that. luckily they are super cheap and easy to install.
if your serious about the track, and like nittos, id step up to the NT05. worlds above the 555. as in several seconds a lap faster.
definatly get some tires. and DONT put those 2007 falkens on the car for the track.
definatly add 1 court of oil at track. fbodys are notorious for sucking air in corning. and monitor level constantly. every 2 sessions max.
2 bottles of the Motul 600 should be enough for a complete flush. with some extra left over for future bleeding.
the PS pump will puke fluid out of the cap when pushed. is actually boiling the fluid. you will need a power steering cooler (not the factory WS6/SS radiator hose one) to prevent that. luckily they are super cheap and easy to install.
if your serious about the track, and like nittos, id step up to the NT05. worlds above the 555. as in several seconds a lap faster.
definatly add 1 court of oil at track. fbodys are notorious for sucking air in corning. and monitor level constantly. every 2 sessions max.
2 bottles of the Motul 600 should be enough for a complete flush. with some extra left over for future bleeding.
the PS pump will puke fluid out of the cap when pushed. is actually boiling the fluid. you will need a power steering cooler (not the factory WS6/SS radiator hose one) to prevent that. luckily they are super cheap and easy to install.
if your serious about the track, and like nittos, id step up to the NT05. worlds above the 555. as in several seconds a lap faster.
Now I'm not familiar with a power steering cooler upgrade, got any info on a install?
Is it a less common issue with a road course over autox?
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Northern Calif.
Hi, I noticed this post--and should be able to help.
I've built, and my son raced the fastest LS1 powered A-Sedan SCCA road Race car in the country, (a Red 2001 Firebird Formula w/ stock LS1 per rules). Most comments are correct--Start with brakes as these cars Don't Stop! Cheap front stock rotors and the Carbotech pads work best, as mentioned, swap out before the track day and make sure they are bedded in. Stock in rear is OK but fade immediately (stops axle hop). RBF600 is ok, (we have to use a Castrol fluid that costs 100.00 a liter). Check your front hubs and make sure the are good. For your first track day use and burn off your stock tires. Most street tires don't hold up on Race tracks very well, So you really should have a set just for track days.
If you like the experience get a set of 9" wide 17" SS wheels (or use third Gen 16" GTA wheels and find Road Racing Take offs. (We have 5 sets of BFG R1's and R1S's with lots of rubber) Use these just for the track. Koni Single Adj. are very good for your use.
Stock Sway Bars are fine. Put as much camber as you can in the front end.
Don't put a whole quart of oil in, just make sure it is a bit above the full mark.
(too much oil will just end up in the intake manifold thru the pcv.)
These engines move a lot of oil above the heads when run at high RPM's
The stock Power steering oil cooler works great (we've used one for 8 years and no Power steering leaks or overheating.) If you don't have one use the small aftermarket ones plumbed into the Return line. Make sure your radiator diverter (air dam) below the bumper is in Good condition. Watch your temps, keep revs below 6K and have fun.
Focus on Driving technique and not on speed--it will come with proper technique.
DB
I've built, and my son raced the fastest LS1 powered A-Sedan SCCA road Race car in the country, (a Red 2001 Firebird Formula w/ stock LS1 per rules). Most comments are correct--Start with brakes as these cars Don't Stop! Cheap front stock rotors and the Carbotech pads work best, as mentioned, swap out before the track day and make sure they are bedded in. Stock in rear is OK but fade immediately (stops axle hop). RBF600 is ok, (we have to use a Castrol fluid that costs 100.00 a liter). Check your front hubs and make sure the are good. For your first track day use and burn off your stock tires. Most street tires don't hold up on Race tracks very well, So you really should have a set just for track days.
If you like the experience get a set of 9" wide 17" SS wheels (or use third Gen 16" GTA wheels and find Road Racing Take offs. (We have 5 sets of BFG R1's and R1S's with lots of rubber) Use these just for the track. Koni Single Adj. are very good for your use.
Stock Sway Bars are fine. Put as much camber as you can in the front end.
Don't put a whole quart of oil in, just make sure it is a bit above the full mark.
(too much oil will just end up in the intake manifold thru the pcv.)
These engines move a lot of oil above the heads when run at high RPM's
The stock Power steering oil cooler works great (we've used one for 8 years and no Power steering leaks or overheating.) If you don't have one use the small aftermarket ones plumbed into the Return line. Make sure your radiator diverter (air dam) below the bumper is in Good condition. Watch your temps, keep revs below 6K and have fun.
Focus on Driving technique and not on speed--it will come with proper technique.
DB
So I looked down a few threads and found this haha
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...er-delete.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...er-delete.html
Last edited by 02T/A-WS6; Feb 3, 2016 at 12:17 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo Hi, I noticed this post--and should be able to help.
I've built, and my son raced the fastest LS1 powered A-Sedan SCCA road Race car in the country, (a Red 2001 Firebird Formula w/ stock LS1 per rules). Most comments are correct--Start with brakes as these cars Don't Stop! Cheap front stock rotors and the Carbotech pads work best, as mentioned, swap out before the track day and make sure they are bedded in. Stock in rear is OK but fade immediately (stops axle hop). RBF600 is ok, (we have to use a Castrol fluid that costs 100.00 a liter). Check your front hubs and make sure the are good. For your first track day use and burn off your stock tires. Most street tires don't hold up on Race tracks very well, So you really should have a set just for track days.
If you like the experience get a set of 9" wide 17" SS wheels (or use third Gen 16" GTA wheels and find Road Racing Take offs. (We have 5 sets of BFG R1's and R1S's with lots of rubber) Use these just for the track. Koni Single Adj. are very good for your use.
Stock Sway Bars are fine. Put as much camber as you can in the front end.
Don't put a whole quart of oil in, just make sure it is a bit above the full mark.
(too much oil will just end up in the intake manifold thru the pcv.)
These engines move a lot of oil above the heads when run at high RPM's
The stock Power steering oil cooler works great (we've used one for 8 years and no Power steering leaks or overheating.) If you don't have one use the small aftermarket ones plumbed into the Return line. Make sure your radiator diverter (air dam) below the bumper is in Good condition. Watch your temps, keep revs below 6K and have fun.
Focus on Driving technique and not on speed--it will come with proper technique.
DB
I've built, and my son raced the fastest LS1 powered A-Sedan SCCA road Race car in the country, (a Red 2001 Firebird Formula w/ stock LS1 per rules). Most comments are correct--Start with brakes as these cars Don't Stop! Cheap front stock rotors and the Carbotech pads work best, as mentioned, swap out before the track day and make sure they are bedded in. Stock in rear is OK but fade immediately (stops axle hop). RBF600 is ok, (we have to use a Castrol fluid that costs 100.00 a liter). Check your front hubs and make sure the are good. For your first track day use and burn off your stock tires. Most street tires don't hold up on Race tracks very well, So you really should have a set just for track days.
If you like the experience get a set of 9" wide 17" SS wheels (or use third Gen 16" GTA wheels and find Road Racing Take offs. (We have 5 sets of BFG R1's and R1S's with lots of rubber) Use these just for the track. Koni Single Adj. are very good for your use.
Stock Sway Bars are fine. Put as much camber as you can in the front end.
Don't put a whole quart of oil in, just make sure it is a bit above the full mark.
(too much oil will just end up in the intake manifold thru the pcv.)
These engines move a lot of oil above the heads when run at high RPM's
The stock Power steering oil cooler works great (we've used one for 8 years and no Power steering leaks or overheating.) If you don't have one use the small aftermarket ones plumbed into the Return line. Make sure your radiator diverter (air dam) below the bumper is in Good condition. Watch your temps, keep revs below 6K and have fun.
Focus on Driving technique and not on speed--it will come with proper technique.
DB
I would love to get the koni sa shocks...if I can after all this I will haha
Yea I was looking at ones that were 550-600 dry and 400 wet boiling points and I think the Motul 600 was one of them. Crazy something like that can be such a game changer haha
Any thoughts on the nitto 555 vs nt05. Looks like maybe 20 bucks cheaper per tire. Think they will still serve me well for this?
I know I will be hooked haha...heck I was hooked after I did the tour with the wife around the track in our pervious turbo subbie outback wagon! Had those crappy all seasons screaming around the corners and that was just on the tour lol. Only hit 75 tops but I was happy because it's advertised as only 55.
We took some video and now I keep watching it and where the apex is and just the track in general. I know my biggest part will be braking too early and that's where figuring our the car and paying attention to the number markers on the side comes into play and not just guessing. That and rolling into the throttle instead of just full throttle in the middle of the apex...who knows maybe it will stick and be OK as long as I'm I n the correct gear.
Any phone apps for track lap times?
Any thoughts on the nitto 555 vs nt05. Looks like maybe 20 bucks cheaper per tire. Think they will still serve me well for this?
I know I will be hooked haha...heck I was hooked after I did the tour with the wife around the track in our pervious turbo subbie outback wagon! Had those crappy all seasons screaming around the corners and that was just on the tour lol. Only hit 75 tops but I was happy because it's advertised as only 55.
We took some video and now I keep watching it and where the apex is and just the track in general. I know my biggest part will be braking too early and that's where figuring our the car and paying attention to the number markers on the side comes into play and not just guessing. That and rolling into the throttle instead of just full throttle in the middle of the apex...who knows maybe it will stick and be OK as long as I'm I n the correct gear.
Any phone apps for track lap times?
On the brake pads- I use the Hawk HP + pads on my factory calipers and they have great sticking power and have never faded. Just my experience.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Northern Calif.
I have the TT2s with good street tires on the front and worn out( almost cords) on the back. I was thinking about getting the NT05s to put on my stock ws6 wheels for these event. I already know I am goin to love it. Which carbotechs would you recommend for me 10s or would the 8s work well for me?
I would love to get the koni sa shocks...if I can after all this I will haha
I would love to get the koni sa shocks...if I can after all this I will haha
Use as aggressive a brake pad as you can afford (XP10's at least---we use XP-24's in the front and XP10's in the rear) Call Carbotech they are very knowledgeable and supportive. We had issues with Hawk pads--(cost us a championship and a lot of bodywork due to a rear pad failure)
At one time we had the same power numbers in our car and with race slicks it was a handful--concentrate on learning to take corners properly.
DB
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Northern Calif.
So I looked down a few threads and found this haha
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...er-delete.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...er-delete.html
There's some difference in opinion on the benefits of removing the stock PS cooler and adding in an aftermarket cooler.
It's hard to argue with Norcal's experience above -- 8 years with a purpose built road race car is a really good data sample. That being said, I think it's still prudent to share my experience so you can be aware of another point of view. I had trouble with fluids boiling over with the stock PS cooler in place, so I plumbed in a Derale 13224 frame rail cooler and haven't had the problem since.
It's hard to argue with Norcal's experience above -- 8 years with a purpose built road race car is a really good data sample. That being said, I think it's still prudent to share my experience so you can be aware of another point of view. I had trouble with fluids boiling over with the stock PS cooler in place, so I plumbed in a Derale 13224 frame rail cooler and haven't had the problem since.
There's some difference in opinion on the benefits of removing the stock PS cooler and adding in an aftermarket cooler.
It's hard to argue with Norcal's experience above -- 8 years with a purpose built road race car is a really good data sample. That being said, I think it's still prudent to share my experience so you can be aware of another point of view. I had trouble with fluids boiling over with the stock PS cooler in place, so I plumbed in a Derale 13224 frame rail cooler and haven't had the problem since.
It's hard to argue with Norcal's experience above -- 8 years with a purpose built road race car is a really good data sample. That being said, I think it's still prudent to share my experience so you can be aware of another point of view. I had trouble with fluids boiling over with the stock PS cooler in place, so I plumbed in a Derale 13224 frame rail cooler and haven't had the problem since.
I've never seen one f-body that didn't benefit from a proper p/s cooler. The factory resivor lacks volume, and has a hard time keeping temps in check. Also, I've never heard of a ported p/s pump. It is more common to restrict a p/s pump, as the factory settings move too much fluid - which creates excess heat and a numb steering feel.
I've never seen one f-body that didn't benefit from a proper p/s cooler. The factory resivor lacks volume, and has a hard time keeping temps in check. Also, I've never heard of a ported p/s pump. It is more common to restrict a p/s pump, as the factory settings move too much fluid - which creates excess heat and a numb steering feel.
Too bad you are not closer, I have a stack of blank rotors and a couple of sets of Hawk blue pads. One new one used. A set of C4 rims with RA1s that are getting old in the shed.