Is my setup OK for a first timer at road racing?
Is my setup OK for a first timer at road racing? Looking into doing a event at Watkins Glen in ny. It's not a competition event or anything but more for fun. It's a 2 day event with 8 class sessions and 8 track sessions(20 min/ track sessions) total between the 2 days. So basically I'm wondering if there are things with my setup that are not going g to work well with this event. Car is a sunny day car only that sees maybe 1k miles a year. As far as suspension goes I'm getting ready to install some 35/22 solid umi sways and I'm will be getting some koni str.t. I haven't bought them yet but I figured since it is a street car that they are the best option for the coin, so hopefully they will work OK for this as well.
Next is brakes, I have a almost new set of SP performance drilled and slotted rotors with hawk hps pads(put them on last spring and have maybe 800 miles). Now I know the drilled and slotted is just for looks but will I killed them at this event? Also looks like the hps pads on front would be toast. Would it be wise to get some hawk dtc 30s for the front just for this event and keep them on stand by if I ever do it again? I will say it again....it's not a competition but want to have fun with out wrecking the car due brake failure because I'm running the wrong ones. I would have just rather stayed home lol
Last main concern is tires, as it sits now I need new rears and the front are still really good. Front are a cheap pair of all seasons which I'm sure are not ideal for this. But will they get me through the event at the sacrifice of just corning speed?
Side not is I have a 160 degree t-Stat and the fans I thinks are set at 180.
Next is brakes, I have a almost new set of SP performance drilled and slotted rotors with hawk hps pads(put them on last spring and have maybe 800 miles). Now I know the drilled and slotted is just for looks but will I killed them at this event? Also looks like the hps pads on front would be toast. Would it be wise to get some hawk dtc 30s for the front just for this event and keep them on stand by if I ever do it again? I will say it again....it's not a competition but want to have fun with out wrecking the car due brake failure because I'm running the wrong ones. I would have just rather stayed home lol
Last main concern is tires, as it sits now I need new rears and the front are still really good. Front are a cheap pair of all seasons which I'm sure are not ideal for this. But will they get me through the event at the sacrifice of just corning speed?
Side not is I have a 160 degree t-Stat and the fans I thinks are set at 180.
driving time > buying parts.
I would say bleed your brakes good. do a complete fluid flush replacement with Motul 600 or similar.
my stock fluid boiled instantly when subjected to HDPE/PDS for the first time like your doing.
do NOT upgrade your rear pads. The HPS pads will be fine and do a good job for what your after first time. no need for dtc 30s
to answer your question, I killed my drilled/slotted rotors, they started cracking at holes from heat. they didn't fail, but you can see the stress cracks at the holes.
if you insist on buying something, leave your WS6 sway bars alone and take the money and do Koni Single adjustables (yellows). they will do way more for the ride and handling than the sway bars will.
make sure your tires aren't dry rotted from sitting. check the date code if your unsure. you don't want them exploding on the front straight.
I would say bleed your brakes good. do a complete fluid flush replacement with Motul 600 or similar.
my stock fluid boiled instantly when subjected to HDPE/PDS for the first time like your doing.
do NOT upgrade your rear pads. The HPS pads will be fine and do a good job for what your after first time. no need for dtc 30s
to answer your question, I killed my drilled/slotted rotors, they started cracking at holes from heat. they didn't fail, but you can see the stress cracks at the holes.
if you insist on buying something, leave your WS6 sway bars alone and take the money and do Koni Single adjustables (yellows). they will do way more for the ride and handling than the sway bars will.
make sure your tires aren't dry rotted from sitting. check the date code if your unsure. you don't want them exploding on the front straight.
driving time > buying parts.
I would say bleed your brakes good. do a complete fluid flush replacement with Motul 600 or similar.
my stock fluid boiled instantly when subjected to HDPE/PDS for the first time like your doing.
do NOT upgrade your rear pads. The HPS pads will be fine and do a good job for what your after first time. no need for dtc 30s
to answer your question, I killed my drilled/slotted rotors, they started cracking at holes from heat. they didn't fail, but you can see the stress cracks at the holes.
if you insist on buying something, leave your WS6 sway bars alone and take the money and do Koni Single adjustables (yellows). they will do way more for the ride and handling than the sway bars will.
make sure your tires aren't dry rotted from sitting. check the date code if your unsure. you don't want them exploding on the front straight.
I would say bleed your brakes good. do a complete fluid flush replacement with Motul 600 or similar.
my stock fluid boiled instantly when subjected to HDPE/PDS for the first time like your doing.
do NOT upgrade your rear pads. The HPS pads will be fine and do a good job for what your after first time. no need for dtc 30s
to answer your question, I killed my drilled/slotted rotors, they started cracking at holes from heat. they didn't fail, but you can see the stress cracks at the holes.
if you insist on buying something, leave your WS6 sway bars alone and take the money and do Koni Single adjustables (yellows). they will do way more for the ride and handling than the sway bars will.
make sure your tires aren't dry rotted from sitting. check the date code if your unsure. you don't want them exploding on the front straight.
Well i already bought the sways unfortunately...I figured that the combo of the sways and the str.t was the best combo for my normal driving style. Maybe that's not the case.
Tires are not dry rotted but the rears need to be replaced after one more health burnout haha.
I also have a seta Falkens that are on my stock rims that were new back in maybe 07. They have enough meat on them for this type of use but is that too old even if there is no dry rotting?
Tires have more impact on car performance AND SAFETY than any other component on the car. Start by getting a good set of tires that will work well on the street, but still be fun on the track. Look for a 200 tire, like Nitto NT05.
As said above, you'll probably kill your drilled rotors. That means you'll be buying another set soon after the event. So, might as well buy new ones now and get it over with. A simple and inexpensive solid faced rotor is what you need; $60 each at Autozone. If you like the look of the drilled rotors, change them out before the event, and put them back afterwards.
If your shocks and springs are in good shape, you can leave them alone. For your first event, fancy/expensive shocks won't matter.
As said above, you'll probably kill your drilled rotors. That means you'll be buying another set soon after the event. So, might as well buy new ones now and get it over with. A simple and inexpensive solid faced rotor is what you need; $60 each at Autozone. If you like the look of the drilled rotors, change them out before the event, and put them back afterwards.
If your shocks and springs are in good shape, you can leave them alone. For your first event, fancy/expensive shocks won't matter.
Hey Bob, you ever gonna finish that car?
I'd be a little leary of the HPS pads but DTC30 wouldn't be my choice either. If I were you, I'd run some not old tires, fresh high temp brake fluid, and something like a DTC60 pad up front. Do like Bob said and grab some parts store blank front rotors. Save the HPS and drilled/slotted for the street and from there just run what ya brung, leave the rears as they are. From there I promise your mind will be overwhelmed and the car will outpeform you for a few events before you start getting the feel for this sort of thing. You can install the sways if you like, but it really won't make any difference for your first event.
I'd be a little leary of the HPS pads but DTC30 wouldn't be my choice either. If I were you, I'd run some not old tires, fresh high temp brake fluid, and something like a DTC60 pad up front. Do like Bob said and grab some parts store blank front rotors. Save the HPS and drilled/slotted for the street and from there just run what ya brung, leave the rears as they are. From there I promise your mind will be overwhelmed and the car will outpeform you for a few events before you start getting the feel for this sort of thing. You can install the sways if you like, but it really won't make any difference for your first event.
Like others have said, bleed the brakes and add a DOT 4 fluid. After that it's up to you, the driver. Go out and have fun, make yourself go slow the first couple sessions so you don't make a costly mistake and risk the rest of your track time. These car will pass most cars on the straights, remember that you still have to slow down though so, lift early, and give your brakes a chance to get through the session.
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Good reason for a n00b to run decent pads and fluid is because he'll cook them worse than a faster driver. Faster drivers get on the brakes hard and late, slow guys will drag them excessively.
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Verdad Gallardo So I don't think I want to spend the coin for the dtc60s but are there any other options better than the hps pads that are similar price range? Also I talked to a guy that wasn't a fan of the hps pads on road course...said they are OK but they dust like crazy and don't modulate as well as others once up to temp. I know I probably won't be able to get the full use out of some better brakes but if I'm gonna need a new set anyways after the event then maybe I can do something different with some blanks on the front
Leave the rear brakes alone, they will hold up fine. Buy a second set of blank rotors for the front from NAPA. Swap them on the day before the track. Try carbotech pads. XP8 compound is $192, XP10 is $215. Great pads, they will keep biting hard all day. Track pads make lots of dust, but carbotech pads will clean up easy. They are gentle on rotors and can be driven to and from the track. When you are done, put the hawk pads with slotted rotors back on. HPS pads have no business on track, you will cook them fast. When you lose the brakes, your fun is over.
YOU MUST USE HIGH TEMP BRAKE FLUID. Not just standard dot4. You need something like ATE type 200, or Motul RBF600. I have seen too many people neglect to do this, and lose their brakes first session out on track. Your day is done, and there's no refunds for your expensive track day. These are big, fast cars. They can be tough on brakes.
The glen is very fast, you need to make sure the car stops well do you can be safe out there. I would also try to get a fresh set of tires on the car. It's the only piece that actually touches the road. The Nitto NT05 is a great suggestion. Decent grip, and they are tough as nails. They last a long time compared to most performance tires.
If you take care of your brakes, tires, and do some general maintenance like full fluid changes, you will have a worry free weekend out on track. You can focus on your driving and not worry about the car. Have fun, the glen is a legendary track. You'll be hooked after one day. There is nothing that compares to driving on track.
YOU MUST USE HIGH TEMP BRAKE FLUID. Not just standard dot4. You need something like ATE type 200, or Motul RBF600. I have seen too many people neglect to do this, and lose their brakes first session out on track. Your day is done, and there's no refunds for your expensive track day. These are big, fast cars. They can be tough on brakes.
The glen is very fast, you need to make sure the car stops well do you can be safe out there. I would also try to get a fresh set of tires on the car. It's the only piece that actually touches the road. The Nitto NT05 is a great suggestion. Decent grip, and they are tough as nails. They last a long time compared to most performance tires.
If you take care of your brakes, tires, and do some general maintenance like full fluid changes, you will have a worry free weekend out on track. You can focus on your driving and not worry about the car. Have fun, the glen is a legendary track. You'll be hooked after one day. There is nothing that compares to driving on track.
I can get Corvette ST43s for $208. I bought all 4 corners last year for under $200 shipped then somebody bitched and Randall Race Parts had to jack their prices up. I see Porterfield thinks rather highly of the ST43 for your car. Don't the Corvette calipers bolt right onto your spindle? Might be worth considering in the future. The Carbotech pads are a bit more reasonably priced. I ran 10/8 on my C5Z and they weren't quite enough IMO. Were I to use Carbotech again, I'd try their 12s up front. I will say the 10/8 was fun as hell on the street.
I can get Corvette ST43s for $208. I bought all 4 corners last year for under $200 shipped then somebody bitched and Randall Race Parts had to jack their prices up. I see Porterfield thinks rather highly of the ST43 for your car. Don't the Corvette calipers bolt right onto your spindle? Might be worth considering in the future. The Carbotech pads are a bit more reasonably priced. I ran 10/8 on my C5Z and they weren't quite enough IMO. Were I to use Carbotech again, I'd try their 12s up front. I will say the 10/8 was fun as hell on the street.
I believe the calipers and brackets bolt onto your knuckle and will work with the LS1 rotor. If you want to use the larger rotor, that's when you need to chop your ears off and buy the adapter. I'm not 100% certain on this, but that's what I was told. Seems kinda halfassed though with the Carbotechs being reasonably priced.
Leave the rear brakes alone, they will hold up fine. Buy a second set of blank rotors for the front from NAPA. Swap them on the day before the track. Try carbotech pads. XP8 compound is $192, XP10 is $215. Great pads, they will keep biting hard all day. Track pads make lots of dust, but carbotech pads will clean up easy. They are gentle on rotors and can be driven to and from the track. When you are done, put the hawk pads with slotted rotors back on. HPS pads have no business on track, you will cook them fast. When you lose the brakes, your fun is over.
YOU MUST USE HIGH TEMP BRAKE FLUID. Not just standard dot4. You need something like ATE type 200, or Motul RBF600. I have seen too many people neglect to do this, and lose their brakes first session out on track. Your day is done, and there's no refunds for your expensive track day. These are big, fast cars. They can be tough on brakes.
The glen is very fast, you need to make sure the car stops well do you can be safe out there. I would also try to get a fresh set of tires on the car. It's the only piece that actually touches the road. The Nitto NT05 is a great suggestion. Decent grip, and they are tough as nails. They last a long time compared to most performance tires.
If you take care of your brakes, tires, and do some general maintenance like full fluid changes, you will have a worry free weekend out on track. You can focus on your driving and not worry about the car. Have fun, the glen is a legendary track. You'll be hooked after one day. There is nothing that compares to driving on track.
YOU MUST USE HIGH TEMP BRAKE FLUID. Not just standard dot4. You need something like ATE type 200, or Motul RBF600. I have seen too many people neglect to do this, and lose their brakes first session out on track. Your day is done, and there's no refunds for your expensive track day. These are big, fast cars. They can be tough on brakes.
The glen is very fast, you need to make sure the car stops well do you can be safe out there. I would also try to get a fresh set of tires on the car. It's the only piece that actually touches the road. The Nitto NT05 is a great suggestion. Decent grip, and they are tough as nails. They last a long time compared to most performance tires.
If you take care of your brakes, tires, and do some general maintenance like full fluid changes, you will have a worry free weekend out on track. You can focus on your driving and not worry about the car. Have fun, the glen is a legendary track. You'll be hooked after one day. There is nothing that compares to driving on track.
Any thoughts on the nitto 555 vs nt05. Looks like maybe 20 bucks cheaper per tire. Think they will still serve me well for this?
I know I will be hooked haha...heck I was hooked after I did the tour with the wife around the track in our pervious turbo subbie outback wagon! Had those crappy all seasons screaming around the corners and that was just on the tour lol. Only hit 75 tops but I was happy because it's advertised as only 55.
We took some video and now I keep watching it and where the apex is and just the track in general. I know my biggest part will be braking too early and that's where figuring our the car and paying attention to the number markers on the side comes into play and not just guessing. That and rolling into the throttle instead of just full throttle in the middle of the apex...who knows maybe it will stick and be OK as long as I'm I n the correct gear.
Any phone apps for track lap times?
I believe the calipers and brackets bolt onto your knuckle and will work with the LS1 rotor. If you want to use the larger rotor, that's when you need to chop your ears off and buy the adapter. I'm not 100% certain on this, but that's what I was told. Seems kinda halfassed though with the Carbotechs being reasonably priced.
yea if there weren't any good options or they were cheaper that would be the way to go if they did. I wonder if they are a better caliper in general...maybe worth doing if they are