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Road Racing LS build LS1 vs LS3?

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Old 11-07-2018, 10:27 AM
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Default Use a dry sump or you'll be in for rebuild

There is quantifiable data showing that the any LS motor even with a baffled oil pan will suffer oil starvation and loss of oil pressure on long left hand high g sweeping turns. The problem is completely dependent on how long sustained g forces are present and their magnitude. Even the stock LS7 with the factory dry sump is susceptible, and a accusump combined with a baffled pan is marginal at best. The only 100% fix to the problem is to use an aftermarket dry sump system. Otherwise it's rolling the dice on if and when an LS motor will fail when used repeatedly on the track. Running at Lime Rock you probably wouldn't have a problem but pulling 2g's in turns 1,2, & 3 at Palmer or the chute at Watkins Glen would make an LS in your car a prime candidate for grenading.

I'm in the process of swapping an LS1 into my 2001 BMW Z3 M Coupe dedicated race car and after researching for about a year came to the following conclusions and went with the following;
  • Any LS motor will make great power with a CAM change, tune and free flow exhaust
  • For track use upgrading valve springs, retainers, keepers and converting rockers to Trunion is a must
  • Late year LS1's (2002) with a T-56 are good choice to start with. They are configured with the higher flowing LS6 manifolds which are also throttle cable rather than drive by wire
  • Using a endurance style cam with beehive springs will yield a nice torque curve without the need to spin the motor above 6800 rpm's. My motor made 505 hp / 465 lbs ft on the engine dyno with a 231/237 598/610 114+4 CAM.
  • No need to touch the bottom end stock is good for 600hp all day long
  • I used the Daley Engineering LS Dry Sump system, https://www.daileyengineering.com/gm...-side-mounted/ it is expensive but the pump and pan are integrated together which eliminates complex scavenging lines from the pump to pan. The pan also provides plenty of additional clearance for whatever mounts and headers are being used.
  • For ECU I went with a Holley HP EFI, it's fool proof, self learning and runs speed density closed loop with MAP an and O2 sensor. So the MAF is no longer needed simplifying the intake to throttle body. It also uses all the stock sensors and is a breeze to hook up. Another plus is that it plugs directly into the Holley Digital Dash for display and data logging which I also used
I'm just about finished with fuel, oil and coolant plumbing if you want to chat PM me and I'll respond with my phone.

Last edited by LS1Z3M; 11-07-2018 at 10:56 AM. Reason: typos
Old 11-08-2018, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1Z3M
My motor made 505 hp / 465 lbs ft on the engine dyno with a 231/237 598/610 114+4 CAM.
This is a bit of a tangent, but I'd love to know what the powerband is like with that cam. It's right in the range that I've been thinking I'll go with.

Old 11-08-2018, 09:04 AM
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Default dyno plot

Using a endurance style cam with beehive springs will yield a nice torque curve without the need to spin the motor above 6800 rpm's. My motor made 505 hp / 465 lbs ft on the engine dyno with a 231/237 598/610 114+4 CAM Plot should be attached Plot should be attached, I questioned the engine shop owner about the lift of this cam as being too aggressive. I was thinking something more in the .575 range. But he assured me that it's the ramp angles that stress the valve train and with an endurance CAM profile the valves are opening and closing more gradually and this prevents the valves from slamming shut and bouncing at higher RPM's. He also explained that the lift puts the valves when open where the heads flow the most so it makes good power. And with a dedicated track car he advised that if I put fresh valve springs in ever few seasons the reliability would be fine.
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DC 1.pdf (46.1 KB, 203 views)

Last edited by LS1Z3M; 11-09-2018 at 10:18 AM.




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