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The calipers (outside) aren't getting hot at all, not even 400 degrees, but the rotor paint turned beige so they're getting around 1500 degrees. Seems a bit toasty. Pads were rock solid the whole time though. May have found my new fave if they last, and they were looking like they will. As for the weekend? I got 2nd in R1, R2 was an invert and I think I only finished in front of 2 people, R3 I got 2nd, and that qual'd me for 2nd in R4. I managed to hold onto 2nd even with a wasted 4th gear synchro. Every single 2 second 3-4 upshift was met with a grind and a decent chunk of downshifts out of 4th were as well. A couple were abandoned entirely which made for terrible T1 mid corner/exit speeds and some butt clinching entries into T2 with P3 scraping the paint off my bumper. I managed to hang on and eventually turn it up right at the end and get a little buffer between me and him. My fastest laps of the final were the last 3 as I slowly began to trust the car would make the whole session. Now if only I could knock out my next race weekend without trying to burn it to the ground of destroying something of significance. . .
Last night I removed and disassembled the transmission. After some research today, it seems the keys were the root cause and not damaged by something else.
Not surprisingly it took the blocker ring with it. The hub and input shaft were spared though, so I'll take that! I put these stockers back in over the winter because the billet ones got chewed up.
But seeing how their failure mode is not one of explosion, I'll be going back to them. I have some for 5/6 and R that I was too lazy to install during the 2020 rebuild, so I'll be putting them into 3/4 and 5/6 before this goes back into the car. On the interwebz, Syncro stuff is all backordered. But this place up in Denver had everything in stock that I think I need, so I swung up there today. I really only needed a blocker ring for 4th, but I grabbed 2, a reverse hub, and a few snap rings.
I'd wanted to do the reverse hub when I had it apart to reseal, but was cheap/lazy and slapped it all back together. This should make me whole again, planning to reassemble and reinstall Monday. I'll be at the track this weekend directing and hanging out with no car. Gonna be a bummer with no car, but I don't want to rush its reassembly. I also intend to have the cool suit cooler built for my next event. I've about had it with sweating my *** off.
Your shift linkage and shifter tight, good throw on your clutch so not to ride on the syncros.
I had to drain trans oil full of metal bits at the track, with loud tink tink tink noise of gear teeth hitting the bottom of a steel barrel as spectators walked past.
I've been using a cool shirt for 20 years. Same chest and pump no problems.
I have mine wired so I can run it while waiting on grid without the ignition on.
When sitting on grid turning the shirt on and off is a relief.
I don't notice the shirt working on track, but if I forget to turn on the shirt I can tell at the end of the session I'm extra over heated.
Also bring extra O rings for the hose connectors they fail occasionally, and then the shirt won't circulate water.
I use the helmet blower too, the cool air is nice but more importantly it is fresh air not hot smelly brake dust or oil smell.
I looked into the trick AC style cool shirts, like $4k and with an extended warranty only good for 3 years.
Last edited by Passmenow; Jun 19, 2022 at 10:23 AM.
Only thing I screwed up on the trans was running those stock keys, they're garbage.
I wish to God I had the space for the helmet blower but it seems I have no helmet clearance anywhere for it sadly. After rocking the same hot, thick, cheap, bloated suit since 2013, I finally pulled the trigger on a new one that's a fraction as thick. I got the black and red version.
https://winecountrymotorsports.com/p...fd7cc9b947f00c
That and the cool shirt ought to be a game changer. I was looking the car over today and something caught me eye. The ducting for the driver's side looked a bit off. Passenger's side was even worse.
Looks like I'll be securing that ducting and repeating the rotor paint experiment at the next event. Speaking of the next event, I have about a year's worth of pent up *** whippings to dole out. Keith I know you're reading and if you're man enough to get your car together you better know what's headed your way!
On the brake duct I had luck with two little holes 180 degrees apart drilled in the Red flange.
Then attach hose and run a tie wrap thru the holes and around half of the hose.
I did that on the brake cooling plenum too. (tough to do as you can't see in the brake flange)
It's tough to have a solid capture with the hose clamp on the fiberglass or plastic flange.
My helmet has the blower attached to the side as I do not have any clearance above the helmet.
Nice suit my wife always approves money spent on safety.
Do you have a HANS already too?
My first suit was so thick only at 130mph on a 30 degree day did I feel any relief.
I got the cheaper hose this time so it doesn't hold itself in position as well as the other stuff, lesson learned there. I think I'll try to zip tie it to the edge of the bumper beam. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll just rivet it to the duct similar to the way you zip tied yours.
My seat has those head saving dealies on either side, so a side duct wouldn't work for the helmet either. Who knows, once I get a few more things sorted maybe I'll decide to spring for a new seat to enable that.
The suit is going to be a game changer. Is SFI5 the new 3.2A/5? This kinda looks like what I have now. I got mine used forever ago on the cheap.
For a Hans I have a Necksgen. I wore an actual hans before and like this better. Plus it works with 3" belts and is supposedly better in crashes that aren't entirely head on.
If you can use chunks of block ice it will last longer than ice cubes in your cool shirt ice chest.
Remember to add enough water to submerge the water pump.
I hand wash my cool shirt, by mistake I put it in the washing machine and it ripped out some of the hose connectors.
Cool shirts help old guys race longer.
I have the helmet containment wings on my seat too.
My helmet side blower barely fits under them.
I don't notice the cool air in the helmet just that its fresh air from outside of the car.
Since I can only move my head an inch or two each direction, I installed some big 5 inch round high mounted side mirrors for added rear visibility.
If you can use chunks of block ice it will last longer than ice cubes in your cool shirt ice chest.
Remember to add enough water to submerge the water pump.
I hand wash my cool shirt, by mistake I put it in the washing machine and it ripped out some of the hose connectors.
Cool shirts help old guys race longer.
I have the helmet containment wings on my seat too.
My helmet side blower barely fits under them.
I don't notice the cool air in the helmet just that its fresh air from outside of the car.
Since I can only move my head an inch or two each direction, I installed some big 5 inch round high mounted side mirrors for added rear visibility.
I was planning to do ice blocks, plus they're a renewable resource. I have a freezer in the camper so don't foresee me buying ice once I hit the road. I'm curious to see the state of my brain in an August race with it.
I was talking to my friend and he hand washes his suit too, so was planning the same for the cool shirt.
I guess I've been assuming the vent won't fit. I'll have to sit in there and have a really good look. It's nice to be focusing now on stuff like this as opposed to fixing mechanical shortfalls of the car. I've also long wanted to augment the factory mirrors with something that clamps to the cage too.
Replaced the rectangular side mirror with big 5" round side mirrors.
Huge improvement, best $50 I spent on the car.
Mounted high and forward easy to see from the corner of your eye.
These billet brackets are slotted 3" to 6".
Depending on where your bar is, if I had a longer bracket could try it with mirror mounted a little more forward. Cool shirt is like jumping in a cool pool with your hot suit on.
Last edited by Passmenow; Jun 20, 2022 at 04:52 PM.
Those are what I want alright and they'll play nice with my cage too, but they're a damn sight more than $50/pr. Probably still gonna pull the trigger. In the meantime, I swapped on the mirrors from one of my spare cars.
Time will tell if they stay red. I also got the transmission buttoned up.
What a nightmare. It's not a difficult thing to assemble, but it sure kicked my *** this time. I installed new blocker rings in 3rd and 4th, input shaft and 3rd gear were unphased. The hub showed some wear, but not as much as the one I tossed when I rebuilt it in 2020 so it stayed. I also replaced the worn reverse syncro hub and now 1-6 all have billet keys. I found broken key springs in 3-4 and 5-6, so changed those out as well. Hopefully it's all good and doesn't leak, but it probably will.
Just did some more research, turns out the Cool Shirt ends will release if you give them a good yank. Good for an emergency and good for if I forget to unclip them before getting out of the car. I've been doing this for quite some time now without this being a part of my routine. So I grabbed 2 of these barbed tube to through wall sockets from McMaster Carr P/N 5012K78, these are the Fast/Momo design.
The Fast design appears to be NPT on the other end, these can actually be secured to the wall of the cooler to make it easier to seal up as seen here with this overpriced kit from Ultrachiller (same fittings).
To have the more common cool shirt stuff on the other end, I'm getting this 4 foot chunk of hose which will be all I need with the cooler directly behind me.
Once that all shows up I can snap it all together and blow my own mind. In the meantime, I'm going to get after repairing that trans tunnel some more and get the car wired for the cooler.
Last edited by Supercharged111; Jun 24, 2022 at 08:06 PM.
Oh sure get the fancy Longacre mirrors.
For several reasons (rear wing, rear firewall/plastic window, Hatch plastic window, roll bars) on my 4th gen rear visibility is difficult so I went with the 5 inch school bus size mirrors.
Nice discussing cool shirts, many too proud or stubborn to use one.
Oh sure get the fancy Longacre mirrors.
For several reasons (rear wing, rear firewall/plastic window, Hatch plastic window, roll bars) on my 4th gen rear visibility is difficult so I went with the 5 inch school bus size mirrors.
Nice discussing cool shirts, many too proud or stubborn to use one.
If yours are cheaper knockoffs, please post a link. Searching Google for these things is a nightmare, all I get is bulky plastic crap for side by sides.
Down the road, I may have to spring for (or make myself) and ultra chiller.
Much easier to package and thus access to reload. Also half (or less) the weight. I already have to pay close attention to fuel load to get down to my minimum. I think at your CA tracks I'd run into starvation issues trying to get down to the minimum and would need to yank the passenger seat or something.
About the same price but a bigger mirror and a longer mount.
I saw these on other race cars so no shame having bigger side mirrors.
I got the mirrors from Amazon but can't remember where I got the mounts, found these at wine country.
So $50 a side.
Ok the $16 each for the 5 inch mirror from Amazon.
Figures, I was just at Wine Country a week ago. Could have saved on shipping. Speaking of shipping, my suit's in the mail as of today and not from Italy like I was thinking, rather from Irvine. Depending on how shipping shakes out, that way is a few bucks cheaper and the longer mounts do afford more adjustability.
I've seen some positive reviews on the Corvette forum, finding little reason to not pull the trigger. Will likely have to label feed and return on cooler lines to get it all connected properly to avoid brain freeze.
Passmenow do you or your cronies run the coolaclava?
I have not seen it before.
Here's 2 cents a Doctor shared with me.
A doctor told me the best way to cool the body would be through the arm pits and crotch area. (no cooling does that)
He said cooling the chest and the heart actually could reduce blood flow, not sure if that's true or how it relates to cooling the head.
I'd try the helmet cooler. But my helmet is on the tight side already.
My concern is I already feel like I'm getting ready to walk on the moon when I get in my car.
5 point belts, Hans device, Helmet blower hose, cool shirt lines, radio wires and prescription glasses.
I read the other forum reviews if you find more info I'd be interested.
Something like that in your suit in the arm pits and crotch should be designed.
I can only get 2 fingers between the helmet and the seat on either side so I'm SOL on a blower, that's probably enough to keep you from needing the head sock too. I'll try just the suit first, in and of itself it should be a game changer. The Momo shirt just uses a pair of medical bladders, I'd have to ask my friend who worked physical therapy if he's tracking any crotch or pit friendly bladders out there one could adapt. . .
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Right driver equipment, drink bottles are next?
