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I hit the same spot a few times. If you get it right the first time, this will suffice. If you **** up like I did and go back and try undoing and redoing, you'll have to find a new spot as it does eventually stop moving.
Did you go too far the first time? Ideally how many heat/cool cycles should each side take to get to the fsm max spec .6? Any other tips you can offer? Thanks!
So far I welded just the bottom tubes and it went from +.2 to +.6 Ran out of gas so gotta swap out bottles tomorrow. I figure doing the same on top should bring it back to what it was, then make a few more passes and I might not even need the torch.
I thought there was some bending going on but I guess it's all heat shrinking. I had it upside down with the center supported think the tube might bend but obviously not.
Well that sucks, I want an oxy acetalene torch but not right now. Guess I see what happens with the welding, I can always run a few random beads across the top of the tubes
I traded an EFILive license for torch usage with my neighbor. He has a 68 2500 GMC with a 6.0/4L80 swap that needed all the BS deleted. Of course I gave him a more aggressive timing map and all the other good stuff.
So after welding 4 passes on the top of the tubes it brought it to zero, which is a bonus since I started at +.2 each side. I did 3 or 4 side by side passes about 3/8" wide to get it to - .6 each side. Didn't want someone thinking I did so e cut and weld hack job I took my angle grinder to smooth the welds. I checked toe and it has about .2 both sides so that's a bonus and glad I didn't have to keep messing with it. Thanks for the info!
Awesome! Glad to hear! Let us know if it feels any different, I'll be sharing my impressions as well but I did this plus a new diff so it'll be different no matter what.
Another distraction: dropped 20# on my C5Z and made it start on its own again with an AGM powersports battery and some mounts I whipped up that seem pretty solid.
Relocated that 2nd ground wire to get the factory stuff to reach. Spun sideways it can't slide forward and back and with the angle aluminum there is no side to side either. At such a short span the aluminum feels plenty strong. The top strap flexes though, so kicking the idea around of beefing that up somehow. Got some garage cleaning done, gonna do more today and take advantage of the warm weather and finish painting the shed and touching up the hail damage to the house. I'm getting dangerously low on excuses to not wrench on this thing!
The dash support structure is pretty busted up on this thing and it's missing fasteners. I started with some JB Weld.
You can just see that tab against the wiper cowl that's missing a fastener. Thankfully I can stick one in, there are other spots that are out of alignment as well.
Next I turned my attention to the rear brakes. I took them off the left rear and removed the thick mount at the axle flange. It was so thick I suspected it could not have bent, so I put it back together without brake pads and now nothing's wrong.
I'd been picking at my partial spare parts LT1 harness and the 99 V6 harness I plucked from my tub for connectors and matching wires. I managed to get what I needed and extend the cluster harness to meet my needs. Next came the task of finding the other end. There was a purple wire at my fuel tank connection, but nothing coming out the other end of that harness.
OK cool there's my purple wire for the fuel level but WTF are those twisted wires in there that aren't at the other far end of this harness and don't exit in the middle?
While I shouldn't be surprised by this halfassery, it's just that the PO went to extensive lengths to reduce weight on this thing. Goddamn did he suck donkey dick at wiring. There is no logic to it.
I never gave much thought to this ground. The yellow is for an unused cool suit pump ground. Wasn't until today that I realized the black was for the damned fuel pump. Yeah, that's getting redone. This is the mess that greeted me when I removed the old tach.
So after the PO split power 2 ways between the tach and the rest of the gauges with a splice that crumbled in my hands, he decided to vampire tap off of that sketchy mess to feed the volt gauge and that's not the half of them that I pulled. Some day. Some day I will LS swap and dash swap this thing and have a comprehensively clean wiring job. Until then, I continue to patch the mess I have inherited.
I got the cluster fitted last night. Ended up shimming the column down to get it all to fit correctly seeing how the dash is right where it needs to be.
I used the last of my unistrut dealies and they ended up being perfect. Here's a sight for sore eyes, a functioning fuel gauge!
Today I'll attempt to cut my new bezel out better than whoever cut this one.
And conjure up some sort of relay to drive the giant warning light off of the check gauges circuit.
Got water temp and oil pressure installed and wired today. Reloomed the harness and wrapped up under the hood. Next I turned my attention to the bezel, I did not expect this my first time.
04-05-2020, 04:51 PM
